Bumpyroad wrote:
fatboy66 wrote:
Bumpyroad wrote:
the only weight figure that counts is the original dry weight, plus liquids, plus stuff. if that is under the max tow weight by an adequate amount, you are good to go.
don't let a high GVWR deter you.
JMHO
bumpy
That's not true at all. You have to meet the TV GVWR and the GCVWR. Both are important. Further, you should not exceed 90% of either. Max tow weight/rating means nothing.
yes, you have to stay under the rated capacities. my point is that you don't have to load a TT up to it's maximum allowable weight. if your loaded TT weighs 1,000 lbs. under the permitted weights it matters not if the hypothetical weight to which it could be loaded exceeds your maximum allowable weight. I don't understand why this concept is so hard to understand by the weight police. I think that anybody who eliminates a desired RV because of this is naive.
bumpy
I agree 100% and I also think it's naive for people to rely on just being under "ratings" and think they are fine.
This forum by and large IGNORES the #1 force impacting the ability to pull a trailer down the road. That's aerodynamics. It takes more power to pull a 4000 lb trailer that's 11 ft tall and 8 ft wide and flat on the front than a 8000 lb trailer that's 10 ft off the ground and aerodynamic (Airstreamish) on all sides.
Let's look at my little 4 banger Kia Sorento with 191 hp... I have a measly 1650 lb tow rating even though I have 90% of the power a 1995 350...
Which would tow better behind my kia? Those really short 10 ft tall trailers with conventional construction that weighs about 1500 lbs or a 3100 lb airstream? The airstream would pull much much easier due to aerodynamics.
Thanks!
Jeremiah