Solenoid valve for freshwater tank?

mobeewan wrote:
I cut 1/4 PVC pipe to 4 inch and 24 inch lengths and glued them together using an elbow and added a coupling to the long end to make an extension handle to reach the valve. I notched the open end of the coupling to fit over the FW tank drain valve. I can reach the valve with it by bending over and looking under the trailer.

That's perfect!!!
Thank you for the tip.

mobeewan wrote:
I can reach the valve with it by bending over and looking under the trailer.

BINGO.

I've been wondering ever since I got my Winnie what that short version of the awning "pole" was for.

Regardless of what it was intended for, I now have a good use for it.
Thanks for the idea.

I cut 1/4 PVC pipe to 4 inch and 24 inch lengths and glued them together using an elbow and added a coupling to the long end to make an extension handle to reach the valve. I notched the open end of the coupling to fit over the FW tank drain valve. I can reach the valve with it by bending over and looking under the trailer.

MANY solenoid valves will only operate when there is a minimum water pressure. Irrigation valves are like this, unless there is a minimum of 15psi or so they won't open because they use the water pressure to facilitate the opening of the valve. I do not know the specifics of the valve you posted but this is something you might want to consider when choosing a solenoid valve.

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Why not just extend current line out to an easy to reach place and install a manual valve on end of new line???

No DC power required just some PEX, fitting and pipe strap

That was my original thought, but then started looking at the solenoid valves. It's a gadget thing. lol

Industrial quality. Should outlast the RV.

I never dump my fresh water tank except at the end of a season.

But, it is true that I'm just a weekend camper and I go out almost every weekend. I also try to put the right amount of water in the tank so that it is used mostly up each weekend.

Why not just extend current line out to an easy to reach place and install a manual valve on end of new line???

No DC power required just some PEX, fitting and pipe strap

This is just plain crazy talk. If you cannot make a suggestion that would involve using some type of gadget, chainsaw, generator, remote, air tools etc.. then keep this crazy type of thinking to yourself!.

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Why not just extend current line out to an easy to reach place and install a manual valve on end of new line???

No DC power required just some PEX, fitting and pipe strap

That would be to easy and make to much sense. You know as a guy if you can"t provide some way of making things happen with the push of a button or switch it ain't worth doin'. :)

Why not just extend current line out to an easy to reach place and install a manual valve on end of new line???

No DC power required just some PEX, fitting and pipe strap