Suburban water heater question

Gas valve is NOT fully opening...BOTH solenoids have to be FULLY functional to open gas valve.

W/O orifice gas should blow out all over the place......NOT a good idea/method for checking gas flow.

TINY amount...bad gas control valve



Which solenoids did you use??
White Rodgers and Seven Universe are NOT compatible

Suburban Solenoids

Im not sure if its the gas valve or not but it sure makes common sense to me at this point and after all you have already done. What else is left ? Maybe the below link can offer a little help . Wish i could be more help.


https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/28915566/print/true.cfm

I can run the stove (all 3 burners) and the fridge, and turn the water heater on and the stoves do not change. The fridge, water heater and stove all feed through a single line and have a 4 way 'T' that splits off the main to each appliance.

The oriface has been changed, but I am trying this with the orifice and manifold removed to see how much gas is comming through it. I am checking with the soap on the bottom of the valve, with nothing after the valve. I have cleaned the orifice and manifold, but with them removed to check for gas flow, I know they are not limiting the gas flow.

Is there an orifice up in the valve that I am not aware of?

I think I may be looking at purchasing a new valve, I just wish I had one to compare it to so I could know how much gas to expect to come out when the gas valve is opened. Should I be able to hear it or something? In the 6-8 seconds that it is allowing gas to flow only a TINY amount comes out, I just don't see how that would be enough to make it all the way to the ignition source.

Old-Bisquit, im thinking the orifice as well, however ,
if the OP doesn't have access to a meter can he turn on the stove burners and then try to light the water heater (which is a pretty good gas draw) ? If he sees the stove flame get very low, isn't that an indication that the regulator is weak , not at 11"WC ?

RV Propane Regulator should maintain/hold 11" WC on the system with 100% of ALL propane appliances in use.
Testing S/B done with at least 50% in service.

11" WC----that is roughly 0.4 psi (less the 1/2# of pressure)


Suburban water heater uses a 12,000 btu burner (big flame)

So you changed out the solenoids.....but did you remove orifice and clean it??
Soak in alcohol and then blow it with LOW Pressure air...very low pressure otherwise you can damage orifice

Also.......
gas valve ONLY opens and allows gas to flow for 6-8 seconds during 'trail for ignition' ----no main flame lighting off and proving t lit circuit board drops DC to gas valve (SO no build up of raw fuel)

If propane has not been used for a while or a fitting has been loosened etc then it can take a few tries before the propane reaches all the way to farthest appliance.\

Light off all stove top burners on HIGH...do they all burn the same or do they diminish as another one is lit??

Good flames....leave running and try Water heater again...couple times.