Synthetic oil

srt20 wrote:

RambleOnNW wrote:

Turtle n Peeps wrote:

gmcsmoke wrote:
I'd be curious to know how many are getting UOA to prove dino can't make it 5,000 miles and to know when it's time to change the synthetic.

My guess? ZERO. Every time I ask what the UOA said of the people that "know" their oil is bad I never get a response or they say they don't know or don't care. But they sure "know" that their oil is used up. :R

In fact, I would venture to guess from some of the responses in this thread a lot of people on here never had a UOA done or don't even know what a UOA even means.

I've learned one thing; there is a hellofa lot of good oil being thrown away. That keeps a slow economy going good I guess. :B

Well, let's see what your conventional oil UOAs show.

Here's my last synthetic UOA, which is on a 14,000 lb vehicle. Insolubles were up to 0.3% which is higher than what I see on our cars at change time, of 0.2%. Still plenty of life in the oil but this was a once a year change. There were about 20 mountain pass crossings from 1500 to 6000 feet in this interval.

Also note that the Ford V10 requires at least a semi-synthetic 5W-20 oil, conventional oil is not allowed.

Probably could have went another 4k on that oil. In a motorhome...

Exactly! As srt20 stated, you had at least 4K and way more than that is VERY likely.

You're informed because you go through the expense of UOA but you then don't follow their advice. :h

Reminds me of an episode of Restaurant Impossible the other night. The owner calls up the show and says he's going broke and needs help. Robert goes in and makes a bunch of changes and the owner hates them and tells Robert he is all wrong and doesn't know what he is doing. :S The owner goes through all the trouble of having RI come out to save his business and then doesn't follow their advice. :R :S

I'll ask one more time: Has anybody on this forum personally suffered an engine failure due to oil, (any oil) not doing it's job?

Turtle n Peeps wrote:

ScottG wrote:

RAS43 wrote:

Passin Thru wrote:

Flows easily, therefore not recommend for use on high mileage engines; nor do I recommend using it in new engines during the break-in period because it is so slippery and dramatically limits the wearing of new mating parts within the engine. This initial wearing of parts is what makes for proper engine break-in, sealing of piston rings, mating of camshafts and lifters, etc.

You do know that more and more manufacturers are using synthetics in their engines today without issues don't you? One example is Corvette and their engines are doing great. Just saying.

Yes, this is old wives tale stuff. Engines can break in just fine with syn. oil and most exotics come with it from the factory.

Do what you want, but this is no wives tale.

Here is what Crane Cams has to say about the subject:

Crane Cams wrote:
Crane Cams does not recommend the use of synthetic oils during the initial break-in period for a new camshaft. Use a good quality grade of naturally formulated motor oil during this period. If you choose to use synthetic oil after the engine has been broken in, change the oil filter and follow the oil manufacturer's instructions.

Last Comp Cam I put in had the same warning.

Comp Cams wrote:
Flat Tappet Break-In
All flat tappet cams will require special attention during the break-in process. Due to recent changes in motor oil formulas, a switch to a diesel or non-synthetic racing motor oil in combination with COMP Cams® #159 Camshaft Break In Lube is mandatory in order to avoid camshaft failure during break in. Cams requiring dual valve springs during normal operation will also require that the inner valve spring be removed during break in so that critical lifter rotation can be established. The appropriate COMP Cams® lifters, and correct valve springs, rocker arms, and pushrods are also absolutely essential to ensure long camshaft life. Please refer to the instructions in your cam box for complete procedures or page for our tech bulletin on the topic If ever in doubt, please call the COMP Cams® CAM HELP® line at 1-800-999-0853.

Another site that recommends to break in an engine on dino oil.

Most of the newer cars are now running roller cams, and 4 valves per cylinder. Flat tappet cams are old school.

Nowadays, you can't switch out or modify cams due to pollution control requirements, either by state or by National DOT standards. So Crane cams is a non issue, except on a closed course competition car.

BenK wrote:

ksss wrote:
I have/had been a believer in Synthetic engine oil for decades and am registered to sell Amsoil. I have always used it in my pickup engines and some class 8 trucks and heavy equipment that I ran during Winter months. I had a

headgasket go out

on my 5500 GMC. This truck had only 60K on it, but always had Amsoil 15-40. The valve train had a lot more wear on it that it should have given its miles and use of synthetic oil. I ceased all further utilization of synthetic in the engines. I still use Amsoil gear lube in all class 8's and pickup diffs and Amsoil for the automatic trannys. That's my story.

Maybe reconsider your association of root cause...

Maybe it was whatever caused the head gasket to go prematurely that
also created a situation for the valve train to wear faster

The event leading into the HG being taken out was brought back to an event a month prior when an employee got the truck hot until it went into limp mode, shut it off, and cooked it.

I was really surprised when I was told of the wear on the valve train.

Michelle.S wrote:
I guess you need to explain to me how Regens (DPF Cleaning) is getting soot into the crankcase, since the DPF is down stream in the exhaust system.
Now the older engines that Flooded the engine with raw fuel could result in fuel in the crankcase, but I fail to see how you're getting exhaust soot in there.
Now to the OP, I'm a firm believer in synthetic oil, but generally the first oil change and every oil change after. Not sure if it would be as great a benifit with your miles. Now if you live in the Cold North, synthetic is great for starting on those cold below zero mornings.

I guess you've never heard of Exhaust Gas Recirculation valves on Diesel motors, that pump exhaust and soot, right back into your aire intake system, and your motor oil, with all the blow by diesel engines have with their very high compression. They've only been around, oh, 15 years. Talk to anyone with a Ford 6.0 Powerstroke to learn more.

RambleOnNW wrote:

Turtle n Peeps wrote:

gmcsmoke wrote:
I'd be curious to know how many are getting UOA to prove dino can't make it 5,000 miles and to know when it's time to change the synthetic.

My guess? ZERO. Every time I ask what the UOA said of the people that "know" their oil is bad I never get a response or they say they don't know or don't care. But they sure "know" that their oil is used up. :R

In fact, I would venture to guess from some of the responses in this thread a lot of people on here never had a UOA done or don't even know what a UOA even means.

I've learned one thing; there is a hellofa lot of good oil being thrown away. That keeps a slow economy going good I guess. :B

Well, let's see what your conventional oil UOAs show.

Here's my last synthetic UOA, which is on a 14,000 lb vehicle. Insolubles were up to 0.3% which is higher than what I see on our cars at change time, of 0.2%. Still plenty of life in the oil but this was a once a year change. There were about 20 mountain pass crossings from 1500 to 6000 feet in this interval.

Also note that the Ford V10 requires at least a semi-synthetic 5W-20 oil, conventional oil is not allowed.

here's a conventional with 10K on the oil. Just an FYI the OLM went off 1,000 miles earlier and I still had good life on the oil. This is 20k GCW with 5-6,00 towing miles.

RambleOnNW wrote:

Turtle n Peeps wrote:

gmcsmoke wrote:
I'd be curious to know how many are getting UOA to prove dino can't make it 5,000 miles and to know when it's time to change the synthetic.

My guess? ZERO. Every time I ask what the UOA said of the people that "know" their oil is bad I never get a response or they say they don't know or don't care. But they sure "know" that their oil is used up. :R

In fact, I would venture to guess from some of the responses in this thread a lot of people on here never had a UOA done or don't even know what a UOA even means.

I've learned one thing; there is a hellofa lot of good oil being thrown away. That keeps a slow economy going good I guess. :B

Well, let's see what your conventional oil UOAs show.

Here's my last synthetic UOA, which is on a 14,000 lb vehicle. Insolubles were up to 0.3% which is higher than what I see on our cars at change time, of 0.2%. Still plenty of life in the oil but this was a once a year change. There were about 20 mountain pass crossings from 1500 to 6000 feet in this interval.

Also note that the Ford V10 requires at least a semi-synthetic 5W-20 oil, conventional oil is not allowed.

Probably could have went another 4k on that oil. In a motorhome...

I have a 2015 F350, Ford Dealer said to keep the oil changes to 5k miles because of the sludge that builds up in the oil from regeneration. They had a gentleman that supposedly changed his oil when the truck told him to, over time, the oil sludges up in the bottom of the pan....though, there may be more to the story.

Cale

Turtle n Peeps wrote:

gmcsmoke wrote:
I'd be curious to know how many are getting UOA to prove dino can't make it 5,000 miles and to know when it's time to change the synthetic.

My guess? ZERO. Every time I ask what the UOA said of the people that "know" their oil is bad I never get a response or they say they don't know or don't care. But they sure "know" that their oil is used up. :R

In fact, I would venture to guess from some of the responses in this thread a lot of people on here never had a UOA done or don't even know what a UOA even means.

I've learned one thing; there is a hellofa lot of good oil being thrown away. That keeps a slow economy going good I guess. :B

Well, let's see what your conventional oil UOAs show.

Here's my last synthetic UOA, which is on a 14,000 lb vehicle. Insolubles were up to 0.3% which is higher than what I see on our cars at change time, of 0.2%. Still plenty of life in the oil but this was a once a year change. There were about 20 mountain pass crossings from 1500 to 6000 feet in this interval.

Also note that the Ford V10 requires at least a semi-synthetic 5W-20 oil, conventional oil is not allowed.

It is all well and good to believe in the capabilities of some type of oil whether conventional, synthetic blend, full synthetic, etc. However the real test is whether an entity will guarantee that performance. This can be seen here with Castrol's warranty.

They will guarantee your motor against failure with their Oil:

The length of the guarantee is based upon oil type, conventional GTX is the shortest guarantee, at 150,000 miles:

GTX conventional 150,000 miles
Synthetic blend 250,000 miles
Full synthetic 350,000 miles
Full syn with Titanium 500,000 miles

They guarantee against failure with the following items:


Well, I know when I am covered. When am I not covered?
The only claims we don't cover are when the damage is the result of a collision, flood, fire or neglect.

"To keep things simple, the following items are covered:

Pistons & Rings
Turbo Bearings
Timing Chains
Cylinder Lining or Bore
Oil Pump
Rods & Rod Bearings
Balance Shafts & Push Rods
Cam Shaft & Bearings
Crankshaft & Bearings
Valve Lifters
Rocker Arms & Pivots
Distributor Drive Gear
Wrist Pins & Bushings
Timing Gear or Sprockets
Valve Stems & Guides (Grinding adjustments excluded)

And that means, the following items aren't covered:

Timing belt failure; improper oil selection, service or maintenance; defect attributable to the vehicle manufacturer; improper installation of any part; coolant contamination; or failure to keep the motor oil and engine coolant at levels prescribed by the manufacturer."

Michelle.S wrote:
University of Athens, University of Auckland, United Ostomy Association, University of Arizona, University Orthopedic Associates.
And no I haven't, but then again I haven't run Dino Oil in over Forty years. When I did it was changed every 2500 to 3000 miles.
We all have choices and just because someone doesn't agree with your choice doesn't make them stupid. I may chose to drive a Corvette while you're happy driving a Chevette. Just think how boring it would be if we all dressed alike, lived in identical homes, drove identical cars, etc.

I rest my case. I have yet to meet anybody using UOA and have the lab come back and say their dino oil was not up to the task.

BTW, I don't believe anybody is calling you stupid for doing what you're doing. I'm certainly not. Uninformed maybe, but not stupid. You're uninformed because you have no idea what shape your synesthetic oil is in when you change it. It could be in great shape? Or your oil could be way past being good? Or anything in between. You have no idea, and neither do I.

Sort of like driving a car with no oil pressure gauge. One would have no idea if their oil pressure is low, high or in between.