I'm looking at possibly upgrading to a larger and heavier fiver in the future (Columbus 385BH or similar) and each one is right around 13k dry/15k GVW, some pushing 16k gross. My current fiver is around 12,000 as we tow, and the truck seems to be pretty happy with it. I'm looking at a set of dedicated HT tires (265, 3 steel belt Duras) for more stability, but am concerned I may need to convert to duals for pulling. I know I've seen a couple of 3/4 pulling 3 axle TH, so it can be done, but should it? Truck will have bags before commiting to the rig, along with a Pacbrake.We plan on pulling all over the country, so there will be a lot of hills and mountains.

The nice part about the Columbus 385BH campers is that they're very pin light. I have a similar layout and my pin weight is only something like 17-18% depending on my load.Doing the math on the Columbus 385BH, I think you can realistically expect about 18-19% pin/hitch weight which should keep you within specs on the truck itself.Columbus 385BH Pin Weight Calculation

When I started out I pulled 19K with a SRW Dodge, my only issue was stopping, because of that issue, I upgraded. RegardsGemstone

Good to know; my TH is close to 3,000 pin with generator, and I sit nice and level.Along with my single wheel question, what else can I do to make the tow more pleasureable/less taxing? I'm also installing a B&W companion hitch and Pacbrake.The EB will be required, as it's pretty scary enough trying to stop 5 tons without one.

If you can not stop 5 tons with out an exhaust brake, somewhere some brakes are not working up to snuff! I've upwards of 6 tons and 2K in the bed of a sw truck, and had no issues stopping, EXCEPT, when the trailer brakes were not adjusted correctly! I've never owned a rig with an exhaust brake, altho have used them. Yes they do help, but if the brakes could not stop the load in a legal or safe amount of time, I was not going to depend on the exhaust brake to get me there. I had other issues to worry about.Back to initial question. Can you tow heavy with a SW truck. Sure, but like all things great and small, are the design limits of the thing capable of handling the loads involved. This includes chassis, drivetrain, suspension etc. There are class 8 tandems axel rigs with 17K per axel running with singles. so you can get tires rated to 21K in a legal and engineer rated to max axel load limits. Marty

I'm running EBC 7100 HD pads with their USR rotors; pretty much one of the strongest brake upgrades availble. The brakes are stong enough to actually jack the bed of the truck up during hard braking. Even downshifting to 1 doesn't inspire confidence. I know the brakes work; hit heavy traffic on I75 outside Tampa a couple of months ago; driving rain, wet roads, traffic suddenly stopped. I had about a nano second to respond and layed into the brakes (no choice; other lanes blocked) and we stopped within 10' of the car in front. Once I unclenched the drawers out of my crack I decided that would be the last time. It's more of a physics problem than a mechanical one; 5 ton rig plus 4 ton truck trying to stop with mechanical brakes is not fun. The trailer brakes are good. The heavier pin weight could be a cause. Regardless, I'm not pulling anything over my current rig without one again; my familie's safety and longevity of the truck are worth the cash. I miss the VGT for the EB and won't tow long distances without one again.

Towing heavy with a single wheel 3500 | Good Sam Community

31 Replies

transamz9
Explorer
Nov 27, 2014
john&bet wrote:
I do not think they should make a 3500 srw truck. JMHO.

Why would you have this opinion? What does it matter what numbers they call it? If they called it a 2500 it would still be the same truck.
AH64ID
Explorer
Nov 26, 2014
norfla71 wrote:
Dualls will be for both safety, stability and increased capacity (in that order); as stated, a blowout would suck on a single (and dangerous). Haven't had it happen yet, but....

19.5's will still be more expensive; there are cheaper alternatives to Rickson, but actually finding wheels is the first issue (no luck even used). Tires are easier, as most any big rig tire shop has them, and are cheaper than Rickson. Even so, I'm still looking at about $3,000 and, for much less than that, I can get 4 dual wheels and bed from someone on one of the forums. Or find a used hauler bed.

The capacity issue is actually touchy, as Dodge claims the SW is higher than the DW for towing (but double payload for the DW).

I have some time, so not in a big rush to do someting right now.

19.5's aren't actually that expensive. The tires are a little more, but not a ton more, and they last longer.

19.5" wheels can be had for $200/ea or less, and are easy to source online and local. The Vision Type 81's are the most common and rated at 4500lbs each which is plenty for LRG tires.

The axle, brakes, and basic suspension are the same on a DRW as your SRW so don't worry about overloading.

But it comes down to weight, if you are over 6400lbs on the rear axle I would upgrade something. There are some, but not many, 17" tires rated for more than 3195lb/ea but the wheel options are quite limited. Many run the OEM Dodge wheels up to 4K, or more, and I have never heard of a wheel issue.... but....

I run around at 20K GCW with about 7000-7500lbs on the rear axle and it's more stable with 19.5's than 6K on the rear axle on LRE 17" tires.

I have just a little over 3K into 5 245/70R19.5s on 5 new Vision Type 81's. I went with Toyo tires, there are cheaper alternatives.

If you do the DRW upgrade you will want 6 DRW tires and the front axle adapters, otherwise you have to carry 2 different spares.
john_bet
Explorer II
Nov 26, 2014
I do not think they should make a 3500 srw truck. JMHO.
WeBeFulltimers
Explorer
Nov 26, 2014
retispcsi wrote:
OK I have all of the goodies, a great exhaust brake, disc brakes on the trailer dually 1 ton with great brakes etc. The situation you describe is not uncommon. It does not matter if you have a ten ton hook that will fly out the back of the trailer on a panic stop if you do not leave enough spacing between you and the guy in front of you. You said you over estimated you speed and that is a large part of the problem. The trucks we drive will pull almost anything. The real problem is slow down and drive defensively.

Ding Ding Ding......This is the correct answer!
norfla71
Explorer
Nov 25, 2014
I'm well within payload; truck sits level when hitched, not touching the overloads.
blt2ski
Moderator
Nov 21, 2014
Issue is not tow capacity per say, but PAYLOAD! If you do not have the payload, you do not have the tow capacity. I have ALWAYS been better off with trucks slightly underpower, correct payload, than one with the power and too little payload. My mdt is a grand example of that. 175/336 IDI7.3L diesel. While it is not a cross country rig, for the local towing of my equipment trailer that is 12K, its great.

Really, one should setup the truck initially based on payload, be it a single or dual setup, then power/drivetrain based on your useage. NOT my useage, or some egg-in-eer/sales person/warranty dept in detroit.......BUT how and where you will use the rig!

Marty
norfla71
Explorer
Nov 21, 2014
Dualls will be for both safety, stability and increased capacity (in that order); as stated, a blowout would suck on a single (and dangerous). Haven't had it happen yet, but....

19.5's will still be more expensive; there are cheaper alternatives to Rickson, but actually finding wheels is the first issue (no luck even used). Tires are easier, as most any big rig tire shop has them, and are cheaper than Rickson. Even so, I'm still looking at about $3,000 and, for much less than that, I can get 4 dual wheels and bed from someone on one of the forums. Or find a used hauler bed.

The capacity issue is actually touchy, as Dodge claims the SW is higher than the DW for towing (but double payload for the DW).

I have some time, so not in a big rush to do someting right now.
wintersun
Explorer II
Nov 20, 2014
The ONLY reason to go with DRW is to gain the payload capacity while using standard rims and tires. You can get the payload gain you need by going with 19.5 rims and tires and stay with SRW.

You can do the calculations yourself. Weigh the truck with the bed empty and note the weight on the drive wheels. Subtract that from the max load for the two rear tires and that provides the load from the 5th wheel that the current tires can handle. It will be borderline if the 5th wheel puts 4,000 lbs. on the rear tires.

With 19.5 wheels the payload on the rear is going to be 8800 lbs. minus the weight of the truck for a 5500 lb. load capacity which should be enough for a 20,000 lb. 5th wheel trailer. That leaves enough of a reserve to add a 75 gallon auxiliary fuel tank at the front of the bed.
JIMNLIN
Explorer III
Nov 20, 2014
interesting............Thanks
norfla71
Explorer
Nov 19, 2014
Reread my post; you misunderstood. No, I don't have an EB anymore since I'm running a fixed unit. My point was I could have easily and safely slowed down by downshifting if I had an aftermarket EB or the VGT.