Trailer lug torquing

Usually you use anti seize where two dissimilar metals touch, like spark plugs in aluminum heads, or where rust could be a problem. So long as your lugs are covered there should be no need for oil or anti seize compound.

My last trailer came with hub covers, my current one did not. I put on a set of these. Not having aluminum wheels I don't know how exposed the lugs are on those.

gmw photos wrote:
If one were inclined to go by FAA requirements for aircraft maintenance they state "all torque values for fasteners are stated as dry unless otherwise noted".

In my pocket ref manual ( Thomas Glover ) the max dry torque value for a 1/2" grade 8 fastener ( which is what the lug stud/nut is on two of my trailers ) is 119 ft/lbs, which happens to match what the dexter axle manual that came with my newest trailer states for the lug nuts.

Works for me, because I figure the folks who wrote those manuals know more about bolt science than I do.

I agree. If lug nuts/studs were supposed to be lubricated, newly assembled vehicles (cars, trucks, trailers, etc) would have lubricated wheel fasteners. But they don't.

If one were inclined to go by FAA requirements for aircraft maintenance they state "all torque values for fasteners are stated as dry unless otherwise noted".

In my pocket ref manual ( Thomas Glover ) the max dry torque value for a 1/2" grade 8 fastener ( which is what the lug stud/nut is on two of my trailers ) is 119 ft/lbs, which happens to match what the dexter axle manual that came with my newest trailer states for the lug nuts.

Works for me, because I figure the folks who wrote those manuals know more about bolt science than I do.

EDIT: as a side note, another example on vehicles is the Ford manual for our F350 ( which has hub-centered wheels ) specifically warns to NOT put lube on the stud threads. In this case, these lug nuts have swiveling cone, and the cone is to get "one drop" of oil but again, the warning to ensure no oil on the threads.

ROBERTSUNRUS wrote:

Never lube the threads.

2 to 3 drops of 30wt maybe, but no anti-seize.

The folks who engineer and specify threaded fasteners state the required torque values either as dry or lubed. Likely best practice is to use their recommendation.

ROBERTSUNRUS wrote:
Never lube the threads.

Lot's of science on this...which makes this advice purely an opinion.

I torque to spec in two stages, dry threads, then recheck at the spec'd torque value a couple times in the next 100 or so miles. Then I re-check periodically just to make myself feel good I guess, because I never find any loose again, until a wheel might be removed again for whatever reason.

Double post; unable to delete.

stevenicol wrote:
...when you check the torque of your trailer lugs, do you loosen them first, or just test the torque tightness?

:) Hi, there is no reason to loosen your lug nuts unless you need to remove a wheel. Once removed for any reason, then hand torque the lug nuts to specs, and one more time while on the road. Never lube the threads.

I'm a retired truck technician, this questions has been argued about within my profession over and over. I ran a shop of twenty five people that did things twenty five different ways.
Personally, I would not loosen then re-torque. When putting a wheel on first seat all the lug nuts, then torque each lug nut.
Personally I would never use never seize on wheel studs, but that is just me.