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Bigfootchevy's avatar
Bigfootchevy
Explorer
Mar 27, 2014

Truck Camper Guide

When purchasing a Truck Camper, there are a few important factors to consider:

1. The payload capacity – sometimes this rating is posted in the glove box of your truck, if not, another way to determine payload capacity would be to weigh your truck, full of fuel, people and of course the dog and then subtract that weight from the (GVWR) posted on the door of your truck and that difference would equal your payload capacity (weight of camper you can carry). Example, your truck weighs 6800lbs and the GVWR on the door reads 9900lbs your payload would be 3100lbs (9900lbs-6800lbs=3100lbs).

2. GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) – is the maximum weight the manufacturer rates that truck to carry, including weight of the truck and all people. Cargo, fuel etc.

3. GAWR (Gross Axle Weight Rating) – is the maximum rating the manufacturer rates the axles to carry. To determine these ratings on your truck with cargo (camper) weigh your truck again with just the front and then just the rear axle on the scales, this will give you your axle ratings on your truck with your camper. These ratings are usually posted on the driver’s side doorpost.

4. Tire capacity (rating of your tire) - This is the tiny fine print on the sidewall of your tire, usually just behind the tire inflation number, this will usually be a direct correlation to the axle ratings and GVWR on new truck. This will always be your weak link in your weight carrying capacity and should always be checked before carrying any load, including a passenger car for that matter. SAFETY ALERT – Always make certain you choose tires with the proper load capacity to handle whatever load you are carrying with your vehicle!

5. COG (Center of Gravity) – also known as Center of Balance is the point that the weight of your camper is balanced, ALP notes the COG on every camper with a large red arrow, this is determined as it is weighed and balanced as it goes out the door. Your camper COG should fall into the “Load Range” of your truck (see owners manual) for this measurment.

As the owner, it is your responsibility not to exceed the weight or COG specifications of your truck when purchasing a truck camper. Always think safety first before loading a camper on your truck. Please consult your dealer, who can help you select aftermarket items designed to aid in proper use of your truck and camper combination

9 Replies

  • 805gregg wrote:
    I'm waiting for some smart entrepreneur to come up with some extra heavy and wide wheels and tires to safely run singles in the rear like my neighbors semi truck tractor


    If you are referring to the super singles that have come out on semis then you really need to read up on them as the advertised advantages quickly disappear in reality.
  • I'm waiting for some smart entrepreneur to come up with some extra heavy and wide wheels and tires to safely run singles in the rear like my neighbors semi truck tractor
  • It's considered bad form to copy content from another site, you should have just posted the link to the page
  • Bigfootchevy wrote:
    Good points, I just copied this off a truck campers dealers website and posted it for information purposes only.

    Paul


    OK that explains it.

    And as I said in my statement above this is the reason for this misinformation.

    "As the owner, it is your responsibility not to exceed the weight or COG specifications of your truck when purchasing a truck camper. Always think safety first before loading a camper on your truck. Please consult your dealer, who can help you select aftermarket items designed to aid in proper use of your truck and camper combination"

    I'll bet there is hardly any dealers that know how to put together a total package as they well just keep having you come back and add more things as the more you come back the more $$$$ moola they make on adding these extras.
  • Good points, I just copied this off a truck campers dealers website and posted it for information purposes only.

    Paul
  • Led 67 wrote:
    Butch50 wrote:
    Bigfootchevy wrote:

    4. Tire capacity (rating of your tire) - This is the tiny fine print on the sidewall of your tire, usually just behind the tire inflation number, this will usually be a direct correlation to the axle ratings and GVWR on new truck. This will always be your weak link in your weight carrying capacity and should always be checked before carrying any load, including a passenger car for that matter. SAFETY ALERT – Always make certain you choose tires with the proper load capacity to handle whatever load you are carrying with your vehicle!


    I agree with you on a lot of your points except number 4. You also want your wheel to have enough capacity to support your load, Just because you add a bigger or more capacity tire on the stock wheel does not mean it is safe. The wheel might not be rated at the new rating on the tire.

    On point 3 you state weigh each axle and this gives you your axle rating. Your GAWR is on the door pilar. When you weigh your truck and get the weight of each axle this is not a rating but an acutal weight. You want to compare the actual weight to the GAWR to make sure you are not exceeding the GAWR when everything is stock. Another thing is that both the front and the rear GAWR combined well normally exceed your GVWR.


    X2 with #4 as I have seen some people that were scrappers think that they could load thier pickups to max only to start cracking if not outright breaking stock wheels and lug studs.


    X3 with the following:

    The rear axle on a RAM 3500 SRW (AAM 11.5) is rated for over 10,000 lbs. yet the stock truck comes with Load Range E tires rated at 3,415 lbs @ 80 PSI to 3,750 lbs. @ 80 PSI.

    10,000+ lbs. - 6,830 or 7,500 lbs. = opportunity to purchase stronger wheels and tires (Ex. - 19.5" Rickson wheels and Load Range G or H tires).
  • Is this the WP recruitment section? When I bought my camper, construction, style, emenities, size, roof type, age, color, bath type, jacks, storage, were all major conciderations. I can always get a different truck if I don't feel mine is up to the task. Now I don't try and turn a TC rig into a C.
  • Butch50 wrote:
    Bigfootchevy wrote:
    When purchasing a Truck Camper, there are a few important factors to consider:

    1. The payload capacity – sometimes this rating is posted in the glove box of your truck, if not, another way to determine payload capacity would be to weigh your truck, full of fuel, people and of course the dog and then subtract that weight from the (GVWR) posted on the door of your truck and that difference would equal your payload capacity (weight of camper you can carry). Example, your truck weighs 6800lbs and the GVWR on the door reads 9900lbs your payload would be 3100lbs (9900lbs-6800lbs=3100lbs).

    2. GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) – is the maximum weight the manufacturer rates that truck to carry, including weight of the truck and all people. Cargo, fuel etc.

    3. GAWR (Gross Axle Weight Rating) – is the maximum rating the manufacturer rates the axles to carry. To determine these ratings on your truck with cargo (camper) weigh your truck again with just the front and then just the rear axle on the scales, this will give you your axle ratings on your truck with your camper. These ratings are usually posted on the driver’s side doorpost.

    4. Tire capacity (rating of your tire) - This is the tiny fine print on the sidewall of your tire, usually just behind the tire inflation number, this will usually be a direct correlation to the axle ratings and GVWR on new truck. This will always be your weak link in your weight carrying capacity and should always be checked before carrying any load, including a passenger car for that matter. SAFETY ALERT – Always make certain you choose tires with the proper load capacity to handle whatever load you are carrying with your vehicle!

    5. COG (Center of Gravity) – also known as Center of Balance is the point that the weight of your camper is balanced, ALP notes the COG on every camper with a large red arrow, this is determined as it is weighed and balanced as it goes out the door. Your camper COG should fall into the “Load Range” of your truck (see owners manual) for this measurment.

    As the owner, it is your responsibility not to exceed the weight or COG specifications of your truck when purchasing a truck camper. Always think safety first before loading a camper on your truck. Please consult your dealer, who can help you select aftermarket items designed to aid in proper use of your truck and camper combination


    I agree with you on a lot of your points except number 4. You also want your wheel to have enough capacity to support your load, Just because you add a bigger or more capacity tire on the stock wheel does not mean it is safe. The wheel might not be rated at the new rating on the tire.

    On point 3 you state weigh each axle and this gives you your axle rating. Your GAWR is on the door pilar. When you weigh your truck and get the weight of each axle this is not a rating but an acutal weight. You want to compare the actual weight to the GAWR to make sure you are not exceeding the GAWR when everything is stock. Another thing is that both the front and the rear GAWR combined well normally exceed your GVWR.

    Also I wouldn't rely on the dealer for anything. Remember they are there for one thing and that is to sell you a camper make money and get you out the door so they can get onto the next sucker er I mean customer.:B This hold true for most dealers out there.


    X2 with #4 as I have seen some people that were scrappers think that they could load thier pickups to max only to start cracking if not outright breaking stock wheels and lug studs.
  • Bigfootchevy wrote:
    When purchasing a Truck Camper, there are a few important factors to consider:

    1. The payload capacity – sometimes this rating is posted in the glove box of your truck, if not, another way to determine payload capacity would be to weigh your truck, full of fuel, people and of course the dog and then subtract that weight from the (GVWR) posted on the door of your truck and that difference would equal your payload capacity (weight of camper you can carry). Example, your truck weighs 6800lbs and the GVWR on the door reads 9900lbs your payload would be 3100lbs (9900lbs-6800lbs=3100lbs).

    2. GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) – is the maximum weight the manufacturer rates that truck to carry, including weight of the truck and all people. Cargo, fuel etc.

    3. GAWR (Gross Axle Weight Rating) – is the maximum rating the manufacturer rates the axles to carry. To determine these ratings on your truck with cargo (camper) weigh your truck again with just the front and then just the rear axle on the scales, this will give you your axle ratings on your truck with your camper. These ratings are usually posted on the driver’s side doorpost.

    4. Tire capacity (rating of your tire) - This is the tiny fine print on the sidewall of your tire, usually just behind the tire inflation number, this will usually be a direct correlation to the axle ratings and GVWR on new truck. This will always be your weak link in your weight carrying capacity and should always be checked before carrying any load, including a passenger car for that matter. SAFETY ALERT – Always make certain you choose tires with the proper load capacity to handle whatever load you are carrying with your vehicle!

    5. COG (Center of Gravity) – also known as Center of Balance is the point that the weight of your camper is balanced, ALP notes the COG on every camper with a large red arrow, this is determined as it is weighed and balanced as it goes out the door. Your camper COG should fall into the “Load Range” of your truck (see owners manual) for this measurment.

    As the owner, it is your responsibility not to exceed the weight or COG specifications of your truck when purchasing a truck camper. Always think safety first before loading a camper on your truck. Please consult your dealer, who can help you select aftermarket items designed to aid in proper use of your truck and camper combination


    I agree with you on a lot of your points except number 4. You also want your wheel to have enough capacity to support your load, Just because you add a bigger or more capacity tire on the stock wheel does not mean it is safe. The wheel might not be rated at the new rating on the tire.

    On point 3 you state weigh each axle and this gives you your axle rating. Your GAWR is on the door pilar. When you weigh your truck and get the weight of each axle this is not a rating but an acutal weight. You want to compare the actual weight to the GAWR to make sure you are not exceeding the GAWR when everything is stock. Another thing is that both the front and the rear GAWR combined well normally exceed your GVWR.

    Also I wouldn't rely on the dealer for anything. Remember they are there for one thing and that is to sell you a camper make money and get you out the door so they can get onto the next sucker er I mean customer.:B This hold true for most dealers out there.