Tune Up

Perhaps replace the fuel filter and 02 sensors (check manual).

That's pretty much it. And yes, it's easy, no special tools. Change your serpentine belt(s). Change your transmission fluid too (every 50k), but use Dex VI, not the Dex III that the '02s called for. Dex VI is backward comparable and is a synthetic blend, run much cooler. If you have 4WD, change your transfer case fluid (also every 50k), and front and rear differential fluid (every 30k).

Campfire Time wrote:
That's pretty much it. And yes, it's easy, no special tools. Change your serpentine belt(s). Change your transmission fluid too (every 50k), but use Dex VI, not the Dex III that the '02s called for. Dex VI is backward comparable and is a synthetic blend, run much cooler. If you have 4WD, change your transfer case fluid (also every 50k), and front and rear differential fluid (every 30k).

Thanks, I have done none of those things.

Truly thank you.

PCV valve

The plugs are important and should be pulled and coat the threads with anti seize. They will go 100,000 but the issue now days is plug seizure in the head because they are in there so long. Best to use anti seize on the threads when you replace them. Be sure to use a good 6 point plug socket as they may be tough.

Just adding this if you dont know it already, some head styles are worse for holding dirt then others. Loosen the plugs then blow the dirt out from around them, then remove the plug. It will keep dirt from falling down in the hole. If a new plug is tightened against the dirt and crud it wont transfer heat properly and can burn the electrode tips.

I wouldn't do anything with the wires if it runs ok but be VERY gentle with them. If you ever have issues with the wires only replace the bad wire and go with oem part. Leave the auto parts store wires alone as they are often trouble.

Serpentine belt? If you replace it or if you dont replace it, at least relieve the tension enough so that you can check the water pump for wear. There should be zero "rocking" movement in it.

Don't do anything with any sensors if you dont have a problem. Don't fiddle with connectors etc.

Fuel filter

throw the K.N filter away .they let more dirt in than the keep out,

throw the K.N filter away .they let more dirt in than the keep out,

Why? Just wondering, OP states 110,000 miles on his vehicle and is using a K&N filter and is by his post still running? :h

DirtyOil wrote:

throw the K.N filter away .they let more dirt in than the keep out,

Why? Just wondering, OP states 110,000 miles on his vehicle and is using a K&N filter and is by his post still running? :h

Also the oil that comes off the filter can mess with sensors. Use a Quality GM filter they flow all the air needed for a stock engine.

I had a oil type filter on our Tahoe it messed with the MAP sensor I think it was and caused poor performance. So I went with a dry serviceable filter from AMZ/OIL. You just blow it out and it has good filtration.

I did most of the same things mentioned above a few months ago when I hit 83k (new truck to me)and noticed the idle was smoother. Some plug makers claim 100k miles but I prefer to replace them sooner. I'd also suggest cleaning the MAF sensor and gunk built up in the throat of the throttle body.

Thanks to you all, tune up done.


HELP!!!

Now the "Service Engine Soon" light flashes



Does it mean I did something wrong I need to correct? If not, how do I turn it off?