WEIGHT DIST HITCH

I worried with this with our first F150/20' TT combo. I finally decided that I'd bring the front back to it's unloaded height and let the rear of the truck settle 3~". This brought the truck to about a level stance and the trailer sat level. Great big ol' hitch sticking way out the back and the ball was about level with the receiver. I found a straight welded short shank trunion style WDH at the flea market and bought it. Perfect fit. After a couple of trips, I decided it didn't even need the spring bars. I towed it with the short ball mount and no bars for about five years. I have a feeling we'll be going through the same process with my F250 and a potential 30' Jayco in our near future. I've seen some 30~'ers towed by HD pickups on the ball alone. Should need very little help if any from the WDH if the TV is adequate and the trailer is weighted correctly.
I don't see what you're towing or what you're towing it with.

Passin Thru wrote:
---Measure the distance between the top of the front wheel and the fender before hooking on. What you should be trying for is to get it to the same height and have front a rear level.---

If you adjust the WDH to return the front end to the same height as before hitching, the front axle will carry little, if any, of the tongue weight. The rear axle will be carrying around 75-80% of the tongue weight, and the rest will have been transferred to the trailer's axles.

If 75-80% of the TW is added to the TV's rear axle, it is highly unlikely that the rear of the TV will be at the same height as it was before hitching.

Chevrolet's current WDH-adjustment specs now imply that it is necessary to restore a load equal to only 50% of that which was removed from the front axle. This would cause the load on the rear axle to end up equal to about 100% of TW,because the rear axle also would be carrying the net load which was removed from the front axle.

In short, the new specs (from Ford also) result in less load on the front axle (causing the front to be higher) and even more load on the rear axle (causing the rear to be even lower). The TV is not going to end up "level".

If you don't like the looks of rear-end "squat", go ahead and add air bags. But, remember, if you add air after adjusting the WDH, the lifting of the rear will decrease the amount of load transfer to the TV's front axle.

Ron

beemerphile, There is no requirement but you seem to be misinformed. Let yours sag. I have a 2006 Chevy 2500hd and usually leave grossed at about 19500. GVWR for my truck is 22,500. I have Airlift on the rear and Firestone 1003 airshocks on the front and a Reese Dual Cam. It sets perfectly level.Take your truck to a lot that is level and adjust your hitch. I agree with HVAC, it takes a trip but start by trying to get the truck level before you leave. Measure the distance between the top of the front wheel and the fender before hooking on. What you should be trying for is to get it to the same height and have front a rear level. When you get it level, you may get a rough ride but it should handle well in the wind and when a truck passes you, very little sway. If it sags in the rear you can get sway from passing trucks and it causes added wear on the front tires. With thousands of videos on the subject you should be successful. Good luck.

Its called a learning curve. I had a reese dual cam on our airstream and it took about one cross country trip to dial it in.

Currently using the Andersen weight dist hitch on our 21RBS. A real example of elegant engineering. Easy and this could be a game changer for the industry.

What do you mean getting it level? There is no requirement for having the hitch level.

Read this;
http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/14265335.cfm

Do this;
http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/17730894.cfm

Doesn't really need to be "level" but it does need to be even ground. Getting it set correctly is all about having the right weight spring bars and just taking the time to make the proper adjustments per the tow vehicles manufacturers instructions (they're NOT all the same). Often you can't get everything perfect and that's just fine but error on the low tongue side rather than the high tongue side. Also remember it's useless unless you're doing this with the trailer fully loaded (or close to it). There can be a HUGE difference in tongue weight with an empty trailer and a loaded one (400 lb. difference on my trailer).
Good luck / Skip

Here's a youtube video.

Once I get the tongue on the ball, I lower the jack more to lift the truck suspension a bit. The angle allows you to hook a lower link on the WD bars easier, then set it down. I used to really struggle before I found that tip. If your bars aren't level, then the hitch needs to be adjusted a bit.

I also have the Firestone RideRite air springs. Not needed to be level, but I get a bit of bounce (vertical sway :) ) without them. A couple extra pounds in them tightens up the suspension and makes for a really nice tow.

Easy on flat ground, adjust chain, and use the tool to place it on