Weight Distribution bar - using a pipe ... ?

CAUTION:
WARNING:
When lifting/lowering Snap
-
Up Bracket, Avoid putting any part of your body in the path of the lifting handle and under the cam arm and spring bars. Components of this system are loaded with substantial force and could shift position or drop suddenly causing serious injury or death.

Never Raise or Lower Snap-Up Brackets without raising the trailer tongue jack to remove the load from the spring bars and cam arms. Failure to do so could cause serious injury.

You must be misunderstanding me...Yes,you have to jack the front of the trailer and rear of the truck up to take the tension off to hook up the bars but not so far you can do it with your hands without the tool provided.

Where does it state you don't need the tool to connect the spring bars?

Where does it state if you jack it up far enough,the tool is not needed?

Please show me anything that states you do not need a cheater tool.

We must be talking about two different hitches..Gotta be.

jaycocreek wrote:
Well Larry, here's what I'll do.. I'll give you a video link on how to hook one up from Eaz Lift hitches the right way with a bar, you post a video from any reputable WD hitch company that shows hooking up without the bar, with hands only!

Eaz Lift WD hitch setup

Your turn.

BTW below is the highlighted Cautionary Warning on page 6 of the Reese Dual Cam HP WDH system instructions:

CAUTION:
WARNING:
When lifting/lowering Snap
-
Up Bracket, Avoid putting any part of your body in the path of the lifting handle and under the cam arm and spring bars. Components of this system are loaded with substantial force and could shift position or drop suddenly causing serious injury or death.

Never Raise or Lower Snap-Up Brackets without raising the trailer tongue jack to remove the load from the spring bars and cam arms. Failure to do so could cause serious injury.

Now if all the armchair engineers want to recommend ignoring these IMO sage SAFETY RELATED warnings and directions that is their decision, but to support others to do the same is IMO foolish and ill founded.

Finally, I don't need any video cheat sheets since I can read and understand English perfectly well.:W

Larry

Link fixed for Larry.

I want to see an official video from a WD hitch company using hands only without a bar!

LarryJM wrote:

Bumpyroad wrote:

jaycocreek wrote:
It's just to easy to use the hitch as it was designed to use..They didn't put a thumb or hand notch on it for a reason,I assume, but they did put a place to use a bar/helper etc to cinch up the links.

It's just to easy to do it the way it was designed!

yep, and I confess I did exaggerate the 5 minutes of cranking. How about instead of a one second flip up with the bar, about 50 turns of the crank on the jack. and I don't need to spend a couple of hundred $$$ to buy an electric jack.
bumpy

I thought you had a MH? so why would you be concerned about tongue jacks anyway:h

Larry

I had motorhomes. I have a TT. :h
bumpy

Well Larry, here's what I'll do.. I'll give you a video link on how to hook one up from Eaz Lift hitches the right way with a bar, you post a video from any reputable WD hitch company that shows hooking up without the bar, with hands only!

Eaz Lift WD hitch setup

Your turn.

jaycocreek wrote:
It's just to easy to use the hitch as it was designed to use..They didn't put a thumb or hand notch on it for a reason,I assume, but they did put a place to use a bar/helper etc to cinch up the links.

It's just to easy to do it the way it was designed!

EXCELLENT ADVICE and below is a direct quote from pg 15 of the Equal-i-zer instructions on how to install and tension the spring bars:

"The easiest way to move the spring arms into place and tension them is to use the trailer tongue jack. Ensure the tow vehicle and trailer are connected and the coupler is securely latched. Extend the tongue jack down and raise the tow vehicle and trailer as far as necessary (approximately 4” – 8”) to be able to swivel the spring arms into place over the L-brackets. A stable block may be used under the foot of the jack to gain more height if needed."

It goes on to say with respect to the "helper bar" we are talking about ...

"The snap-up lever (item # 22) supplied with your hitch can be used to lift the spring arms onto the L-brackets if needed. This is especially useful when you have extended the trailer jack and are still not able to move the bars into place; or when the trailer and tow vehicle are parked unevenly where one bar will move into place, but the other is still too low."

I bet other WDH manufacturers have similiar directions if one would only read their manuals.

Larry

I always use the pipe to snap up the chains. I am not going to lift the trailer tong and the back end of my 1 ton dually so I don't have to. I have done it, but there have also been situations where I had to use the bar no mater what. Just easier on my back and faster then having to crank.

A friend lost a finger using a cheater. Just not paying attention where his fingers were. Now he only has to keep track of nine.
I'll use my electric and if it breaks, I'll buy another one.

Bumpyroad wrote:

jaycocreek wrote:
It's just to easy to use the hitch as it was designed to use..They didn't put a thumb or hand notch on it for a reason,I assume, but they did put a place to use a bar/helper etc to cinch up the links.

It's just to easy to do it the way it was designed!

yep, and I confess I did exaggerate the 5 minutes of cranking. How about instead of a one second flip up with the bar, about 50 turns of the crank on the jack. and I don't need to spend a couple of hundred $$$ to buy an electric jack.
bumpy

I thought you had a MH? so why would you be concerned about tongue jacks anyway:h

Larry

I think there is a lot to the above statement of basically lack of experience and knowledge of WD hitches and the way they were designed to work.

I was taught at an early age on the how too's of pulling trailers. My first solo trip at 15 years old with a 1957 GMC 1/2 ton step side with a small block 265 motor pulling a 20 ft trailer without WD hitch from Boise Idaho to Whitefish Montana over the old unimproved grades that were switch back heaven.

WD hitches have changed a lot since the first one I ever had years ago, but the premises is the same, to take part of the strain off your tow vehicle and not to over stress your jack by raising it un-necessarily several inches higher than need be.