Will a 10 mile commute kill a diesel?

Ride a bike.

Old-Biscuit wrote:
the tranny oil will not get warm enough, the rear differential oil will just barely get warm enough.

'The transmission oil will not get warm enough and the differential oil will just barely get warm enough."

And why is this a problem in a diesel powered vehicle and not a problem in a gas powered vehicle?

Once again, urban legends perpetuated by people who thick they know, not people who actually do know!

I live in a town that you can cross one extreme to the other within 15 minutes .
My 2002 duramax bought new gets all of the short trip work through the 6 months of the year when it is coldest and there is gravel ( for snow traction ) on all of our roads .
I have had zero issues with this diesel .
The injectors have not needed to be replaced nor have there been any issues at all with the engine or the allison transmission .
I have kept this pickup six years longer than any other pickup i have owned .
I just pull all of the regular maintenance by the book and i would say that cost has really only been 5 - 10% higher than my previous big block gas pickups.
Bend is 130 miles minimum from the population that is centered along i-5 in Oregon .
My truck drives over Cascade Mountain passes frequently to get to i-5 .
My short trips are not ideal for my diesel but i love living in Bend because there is no Portland traffic jam in a rainstorm which is common there .
Having owned this diesel i do not ever want a gasser again .

Don't know about the Ram. But my Ford F350 6.7 won't get up to operating temp in less than 18 miles. And it can idle all day, without getting up to temp. If you cannot get it up to operating temp, it is probably not a good thing. But you won't know that until about 75,000 miles. At 10 miles per day, that could be a few years.

I am just lucky I guess. My wife drives 60 mile a day to work.
It seems I really need to educate myself more about modern diesels...have no idea what regen is or what any of those other letters mean! Or maybe I'll just go with the HEMI.
NOW...how can I raise$ 50,000????

I can't comment about the question at hand, but How do so many of you have these short trips to work? It takes me 2 miles just to get out of my community, unless I worked at the walgreens, McDonald's or a gas station, I look at about 75 - 100 miles a day! I wish I has to worry about warming up the truck

I'm thinkin. IF you can't drive it to work, or to the store, or to Church. It's junk. Why would any one buy something you can't drive every where you need to go, anytime you need to do it. Surly diesels aren't that sucky.

2005 duramax with 60k, daily driver until about 8 months ago. My commute to work about 10 miles, no harm done to mine.

Currently running a Cummins 2011 and a 2013, Ram 3500 crewcab SRW 4X4, I can tell you from experience and pics to back up the comments, it really depends on the operating temperatures, the amount of idling and whether it's a manual trans or an automatic. The 2011/12,s were terrible and just could not operate in the cold especially the manual trans G56, the 2013 so far started out throwing exhaust codes but after a re-flash of the ECM has been operating ok but has traction control issues that are not going away without a re-write of the programming. Engine wise the 2013 with the DEF has better oil change interval and less fuel dilution than the 2011/12 but the manufacturer decided the 2013 didn't need a fuel cap. As the OP is looking at a 2500, that only comes with the 68 RFE auto trans which has proved good so far towing 14,000lbs max, the Aisin in the 3500 is a better choice, do not get the manual G56 trans, the clutch is marginal and if you upgrade that the G56 is next in line.

The enemy of moving metal parts is lack of lubrication.

The enemy of oil is heat.

Modern engine controls limit the over-fueling and slobbering / washing of cylinder walls / soot emission. Good driving habits help too.

Modern synthetic multigrade oils lubricate really well when cold and continue to do so as heat builds and begins to punish the oil.

A good run now and again to prevent condensation build up in the axle housings and you should be good to go.