I currently have this air compressor:https://www.target.com/p/black-decker-153-black-38-decker-air-station-inflator/-/A-10541453?ref=tgt_adv_XS000000&AFID=google_pla_df&CPNG=PLA_Home+Improvement+Shopping&adgroup=SC_Home+Improvement&LID=700000001170770pgs&network=g&device=m&location=9033675&gclid=CjwKCAjwssvPBRBBEiwASFoVd1oo0J2q80qFsbQTogiFkphtHJ9s2pS6cAz-B5Gzowi91PpI_WAOrRoCRl4QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.dsI have seen a couple of spots that suggest that a tankless air compressor could be used for winterizing but haven't really seen any instructions/suggestions on the process.Any thoughts? I'm not against buying a new compressor, but this is light and can be run off a cigarette lighter.If I choose to buy a new compressor, can the typical 6 gallon pancake compressor be run from a power outlet in the trailer? My storage spot doesn't have electricity and I don't have much room at my house...

No pressure regulator, I wouldn't do it. They have a stop feature to cut off when a pressure is reached, but they don't (at least my Porter Cable and an Energizer) turn back on.Risk of unregulated pressure is you could damage a fixture or valve in the system, perhaps without obvious sign.

That's where I was unsure. I'm confident it wouldn't exceed the pressure, but wasn't sure if it would work since it shuts itself off...

I suppose, just open at least one valve before starting the compressor with it set at something like 40. Then you just need to be mindful to never close all the valves at the same time, or the compressor will shut off and you'll have to start over.

I have been using something similar for 20+ years - small electric units aren't very powerful but they can purge water from the system if your patient. I drain the water from the rig and the close up the low point valve etc. I then open a cold water valve located the farther away and turn on the compressor. I will occasionally close that valve allowing pressure to build up a bit and open it up -- continue the process until there is no more water coming out. I move forward and do the same with all the cold water valves (but almost all the water is gone by now) - I also make sure that toilet valve is clear of all water (important). Then I switch over to the hot water side and do the same. I drop some pink stuff into the P traps, toilet bowl and call it a day.

Winterizing with tankless air compressor | Good Sam Community

LVJJJ
Explorer
Oct 30, 2017
why do they put the pump in hard to reach places? Last on was under bed, way in the back, had to lift mattress lay across support 2x2's and hope the bed didn't fall on head. Most recent TT has it in a compartment behind the toilet, have to lay across toilet, just get head & arms into compartment. And, why are they so freakin' loud?
westend
Explorer
Oct 29, 2017
oyarsa wrote:
I don't think anyone answered the question of whether I could run one of those pancake compressors from the outlets of the trailer itself (run an extension cord from inside). Would that work?
Yes, it will. I use a small job compressor to blow my lines out. The compressor delivers 150 PSI @ 4.3 CFM, maximum. I have it set at about 125 PSI. You will want to set your compressor pressure as to the condition of your plumbing and fixtures. I have all new PEX pipe, brass valves, and steel-braided supply lines. Most owners will want to use lower pressure than 125 PSI.

Using a filter between compressor and plumbing is also a good idea, especially if using an oil-bath compressor.

All of this winterization talk reminds me that it's also time to drain the spray tank and pull my battery from the lawn tractor. I have pretty much the same Shurflo pump on the tractor as what most folks have in the RV,the exception is that my spray pump has an internal bypass at a set PSI.
Dennis_Smith
Explorer
Oct 29, 2017
I use air, then put anti freeze in. It gets cold here in Colorado and for 7 bucks, make sure its all out.
Latner
Nomad
Oct 29, 2017
GordonThree wrote:
TurnThePage wrote:
How do you compressor based winterizing guys clear the water pump?

advocates of the quick blow method don't talk about how long they spend to disassemble and drain the pump and strainer.

Locate the pump and unscrew the intake/output fittings and remove the strainer, takes 60 seconds if that. Run the pump for a few seconds to push out most of the water in the pump and leave it that way until you need to use it again.
mobeewan
Explorer
Oct 29, 2017
You might pick up a 5 gallon air tank at Wal-Mart or somewhere. You might use it as the tank for your compressor you already have.

I've got a 5 gallon air tank I bought at Walmart a long time ago that I used to use for topping off tires. It was rated for 125 psi. I have used it in the past for blowing out water lines in my first trailer between hunting trips. Then I would leave the trailer at a friend's place near where I hunted between trips. At the time his well had been running low and I didn't want to use up his water flushing antifreeze when I used the trailer again. It worked fine. I just had to plan out the most efficient way to make sure I blew out the lines well enough.
oyarsa
Explorer
Oct 28, 2017
I figured it was doable, but wanted to be sure. Better safe than sorry...
GordonThree
Explorer
Oct 28, 2017
oyarsa wrote:
I don't think anyone answered the question of whether I could run one of those pancake compressors from the outlets of the trailer itself (run an extension cord from inside). Would that work?

I do... Why not? Even off the inverter, but it is a 2800w PSW.
oyarsa
Explorer
Oct 28, 2017
I don't think anyone answered the question of whether I could run one of those pancake compressors from the outlets of the trailer itself (run an extension cord from inside). Would that work?
eubank
Explorer
Oct 28, 2017
I use ours at full pressure and always have for the decades of ownership behind us. (The rig is now 50 years old!) Just be sure to open a faucet or two before you turn on the pump; NEVER run the pump if all faucets are off. When switching from one faucet to the next in order to blow through with air, first turn on the new faucet, then turn off the most recently blown-out faucet.

Lynn
LVJJJ
Explorer
Oct 28, 2017
For years I've been using a $50 12v compressor (no tank and can't remember what brand, use it to pump TV's tires up to 70 lbs) and have never had a freeze up. Hook it to the city inlet with the adaptor, turn it on and let it run. Wait a little till it builds up some pressure then go turn on faucets one at a time, waiting a little between each opening. Keep at it till they just spit a little. Run the pump for a while too. Takes about 15-20 minutes. Then Pink stuff down the p-traps.