Air compressor for winterizing

wannabervin wrote:
I'm thinking about doing my own winterizing this year. I'm also planning to resurface my deck at home. Each job raises the possibility of purchasing an air compressor. But I know very little about air compressors. Can one air compressor be powerful enough to drive nails but also be dialed back to blow out water lines in my TT?

I would actually recommend one of the economical pancake compressors similar to the ones shown by others. A one or two gallon unit often sells for about $50 on sale at Menards or other discount stores. I have used one I carry along camping to purge my TT and it works great with just a few extra moments required to wait for the air tank to refill after each faucet/line. The sudden full air rush of even a small tank is enough sustained "wind" to blow the narrow TT water lines clear.

The 1st reasoning is that you have a far from commercial use planned for the unit, so a HD super compressor doesn't make economical sense. I agree, an occasional deck, or once-a-year RV purge doesn't really merit blowing a lot of extra cash on such a tool (save it for fuel). The other reason is that there is no longer much difference between small HD high cycle-rate compressors and small average consumer grades. Lastly, they are easy to store.

I do generally use a larger 220 volt shop compressor that puts out some 14 cubic feet of air at 90#, but only because it is quicker to do my lawn sprinkler system which I do at the same time. I found a good deal on that too, only paying about $300 on a closeout special. A penny saved is a penny earned... to pay for camping fuel.

Offhand, even the modern RVs have improved in freeze resistance. Most use rubbery Pex water lines now, and these lines are very resistant to breaking from ice swell. So low points aren't a big deal if some small amount of water still remains. Hard plastic fittings, like valves, must be dry though. They are all high except for special low point drains if you have them (fresh water tank dumps, sewer dump drains etc, so I leave those open that remaining water cannot collect there).

Wes
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myredracer wrote:
I use a Porter Cable pancake compressor as in the photo and it works great. I set it to 50 psi for blowing the lines out. The system is good for at least 100 psi and you can go higher than 35 psi. I have our Watts regulator set to 60 psi. If you use a blowout plug like in the 2nd photo it makes it easier too as opposed to the tire valve type. Just set the regulator to the pressure you want and take your time inside getting the water all out.

I have a 60 gal. 3 cylinder compressor but is waaay overkill for the TT. I am planning to install a 12 VDC Viair compressor in the TT and will use that if it can blow enough air but I doubt it will come anywhere close enough.

As mentioned above, once you've used air, you'll never go back to antifreeze.

Now I am getting depressed thinking about this... Spring is right around the corner tho.

X'2 - My set up exactly! .... and yes, "Come On Spring"!

I use a Porter Cable pancake compressor as in the photo and it works great. I set it to 50 psi for blowing the lines out. The system is good for at least 100 psi and you can go higher than 35 psi. I have our Watts regulator set to 60 psi. If you use a blowout plug like in the 2nd photo it makes it easier too as opposed to the tire valve type. Just set the regulator to the pressure you want and take your time inside getting the water all out.

I have a 60 gal. 3 cylinder compressor but is waaay overkill for the TT. I am planning to install a 12 VDC Viair compressor in the TT and will use that if it can blow enough air but I doubt it will come anywhere close enough.

As mentioned above, once you've used air, you'll never go back to antifreeze. Many use the ethanol type of antifreeze instead of propylene glycol and end up with a bad odor and taste in the spring after de-winterizing. No worries about that if using air. You'll still need antifreeze for the toilet bowl and P-traps and the PG type is a better choice for that.

Now I am getting depressed thinking about this... Spring is right around the corner tho. :W

I'll tell you this wannabervin, once you get an air compressor, you'll never know how you got by without one! I use mine to winterize my RV and my sprinkler system, but I'm constantly using it for all sorts of other things as well. No garage should be without one!

wannabervin wrote:
Can one air compressor be powerful enough to drive nails but also be dialed back to blow out water lines in my TT?

Yes, providing it has an output pressure regulator, and all the compressors I've seen have one (pressure regulator dial)

rbpru wrote:
Perhaps the biggest problem with the compressed air approach is you have to know the plumbing layout in your TT.

If you open the low point and blow out each individual faucet chances are you will drive the water out of the lower point. However, there is no guarantee that there is not some point in the system where the water line tubing sags creating a gathering point for the water droplets left in the pipe.

My TT water system is rather simple, the kitchen sink, bath sink, tub, shower and outside tap are all within 10 feet of the low point drain and I can remove various panels to check for sag points. Others are not so simple.

Still, after I have blown the pipes, I hook the pump input to a bottle of anti-freeze and pump it through to each facet. I need the anti-freeze for the P traps anyway. It is kind of a belt and suspenders approach but it has worked so far.

Just be thorough and allow the air to flow through the lines at 30-35 PSI. Any water that remains will not be enough to expand and cause any problems. I've been using compressed air method since 1987 and never a problem. In fact on my current rig it gives a choice (either/or) in the owners manual. The compressed air method makes is so much easier to de-winterize in the spring.

I bought one of these that will blow out my 10zone underground sprinkler system in about 10 minutes.(It used to take well over an hour with a portable compressor) It'll also work for winterizing the RV, filling tires and basketballs, blowing off the driveway, cutting/drilling tools, etc. There are tons of uses for a good size, reliable compressor. This 5hp 60gal unit goes for about $1000 from NorthernTool or HomeDepot.

I've used one of these Hitachi portable compressors, the same one, for over 15 years. It is an oil bath unit so use a filter canister for your sensitive areas. It will keep up with two framing nailers, has a regulator, and draws significant current on start-up. It is not big enough for air impact tools or spray painting. IIRC, the delivery is 4.0 cu ft at 90 psi. It is a good durable tool, much better than the pancake units. It can be found on sale at Menards, frequently.

Perhaps the biggest problem with the compressed air approach is you have to know the plumbing layout in your TT.

If you open the low point and blow out each individual faucet chances are you will drive the water out of the lower point. However, there is no guarantee that there is not some point in the system where the water line tubing sags creating a gathering point for the water droplets left in the pipe.

My TT water system is rather simple, the kitchen sink, bath sink, tub, shower and outside tap are all within 10 feet of the low point drain and I can remove various panels to check for sag points. Others are not so simple.

Still, after I have blown the pipes, I hook the pump input to a bottle of anti-freeze and pump it through to each facet. I need the anti-freeze for the P traps anyway. It is kind of a belt and suspenders approach but it has worked so far.

RoyB wrote:
For me the 12VDC TANKLESS 150PSI portable Air Compressor works the best. Most of my camping is OFF-ROAD without 120VAC PEDESTALS.
Purchased from AMAZON

I can sit my small tankless compressor on the tail gate of the truck and direct connect the 12VDC CABLES to the BATTERY BANK on the trailer. The AIR HOSE is long enough to walk around my trailer and truck tires from this position.

I use my 12VDc Compreesor for blowing out the water lines in my trailer by connecting to the CITY WATER PORT using an AIR COMPRESSOR air adapter...

Being a TANKLESS model the air compressor is slow bringing up the resulting air pressure and works ideal for me to start the air compressor and walk inside the trailer to open the sink spigots etc...

The 150PSI Air Compressor airs up all of my Truck and Trailer tires just fine...

I store this small footprint air compressor in its neat carry bag under the rear seat of my SUPER CAB truck.

Roy Ken

The problem with this compressor is it has no air regulator. If not careful, you could inadvertently put 150 psi pressure on your water lines and blow them apart. I wouldn't recommend that for anyone that doesn't know anything about air compressors. And it certainly won't be any use for his deck project.