2nd A/C in 30 amp 5'er.

joeburnes wrote:
Good feedback, all. Thanks! Snip...

Now, anyone have any suggestions on an a/c unit? lol

I replaced my 12 year old Dometic 15000btu air conditioner a couple of years ago with a Atwood Air Command 18000 btu unit. It has worked flawlessly for the past couple of years. They also make a 16000btu unit and you can get it in a ductless model which would be great for a 2nd unit or to replace a ductless unit.
Barney

Good feedback, all. Thanks! I'll be using one of those plugs but looks like I'll run the wire inside along the ceiling (I'll use those wire covers they used to use in old apartments as I'm afraid it may be pretty impossible to try to snake the wire inside the ceiling and then down a wall) in the bedroom down to a corner where I can go through the floor and mount the plug on the underside of the floor. Just happens to be right above the propane "cabinet" which has a bottom-less style floor in it so the cable coming from shore power will come right up through that cabinet and plug into the underside of the floor, totally not visible from the outside.

Now, anyone have any suggestions on an a/c unit? lol

I added two extra shore power cords. One is #10 and the other is #12. They run from the shore power cord box to the power distribution center.

The #10 powers two outlets on either side of the bed and has a third outlet in the distribution center to run the converter or the water heater. The #12 has a single outlet on the drivers side of the bed--and again a female plug in the power center.

The converter had a male plug already and I added a plug on the romex for the water heater.

The same could be done for any circuit.

Lots of folks have told of doing exactly that. I recommend running no less than 12g from the AC inside the wall, if possible, to an outlet as suggested by Barney, and use the heaviest gauge and shortest ext. cord to the pedestal.

I did the same thing Barnet did but for a space heater in the winter just to keep the inside from freezing. In my case I was able to run it up through the bottom of the floor so it's out of sight.

I added an extra plug receptical to my trailer a few years ago. I would think the same would work for your air conditioner.

The device that I used was this one from West Marine.

With all the cool weather we had down in Florida, we needed a way to run our electric heater without going through the trailers electrical system. I put in a waterproof outside receptical and an inside outlet in the side of our slide out. Now we can run the electric heater without worrying about tripping the trailers breaker.
Works great!
Barney





Quite a simple mod.

1. I first determined where the studs were by tapping around on the outside. Then drilled a 2" hole ( I think that was the size) through the outside wall.

2.Cut an opening in the inside wall about 6 inches to the side of the outside hole for the inside plug outlet and box.

3.Snaked a 12/2 wire from outside over to inside hole.

4.Connected outside receptical to wire and mounted it on wall.

5.Connected inside receptical to wire and mounted it on the wall.

6.Checked wiring job with outlet checker - everything showed ok.

7.Plugged in the heater and it worked fine! :)
Barney

Yes, lots have done it. Personally, I wouldn't install a breaker, just run another cord to the 20 outlet at the pedestal which has a breaker right there.
If the pedestal has a 50A outlet, the 30A outlet is wired to one side (or leg) of it and the 20A is wired to the other so you should have plenty of juice.

You have the right idea, wire it to anther cord to plug into the pedestal. Assuming the pedestal is wired to provide more than 30a ( 120 v x 30 a = 3600watts) as in a 'spider' wired configuration vs a 'loop' wired camp where each outlet in the pedestal can draw on the potentially 12000watts . ( 50a x 240 v = 12000watts) Ask the camp operator about the load potential at their sites.
Max

Hi,

Lots of folks have done it.

Best practice would be to have a breaker in the circuit.

I've "broken out" the water heater from the breaker panel and use a system of male and female plugs so I can return the wiring to OEM in the time it takes to unplug and plug in a different outlet.