30 AMP EMS with 2002 Itasca - want to change to 50 AMP

[StacyBurleigh]

Guys - Great responses to my dilemma.
Is it possible to hook up a splitter at the source - run the existing 30 Amp cable into the RV EMS and run an alternate 30 Amp (or maybe 30 amp to 20 amp adapter) cable into the RV for additional loads. Seems like the EMS shedding would be bypassed.
Am I trying to split too many hairs here??!
-- (1) central heat / air conditioning system
Thanks Harry
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Sitting here in 113 degree Phoenix sunshine at Paradise RV park! Good friend retired master electrician "suggested" changing 30AMP source cable to a 50AMP source cable. This would compensate for heat loss of Volts(AMPs) in existing cable and would provide additional power (AMPs). The current display EMS panel does have a 50 AMP mode available to it.
Manual indicates that EMS system will be disabled if 50 AMP is sourced. Have reflective material on all windows and AC is cycling ok to keep up with cooling (mid day heat causes it to jump to 2nd stage a bit - 27AMP draw).

- What considerations am I missing?
- EMS seems to be a good way to control AMP useage (it sheds load).
- 4 wire 50AMP cable can probably be added relatively easily (with my old time buddies help)
Thx Harry

[hershey]

I have a 30 amp RV.
When 50 amp is available and I feel the need, I just plug the shore power cord into the 50 amp supply with the dogbone adapter
I plug another 10 ga extension cord into the 30 amp supply with a dogbone adapter to 20 amps. The 110 power to my converter/inverter is split with plug and socket. I plug the converter/inverter into the 30 amp supply cord.
The Converter/inverter supplies independent power to my washer dryer, microwave, water heater, TV console are and a couple wall outlets. The rest of the AC supply takes care of everything else including the 2 AC's with also are part of the Energy Management System.
This has worked extremely well for the last 8 years of fulltiming.
I can run both AC's and they don't even cycle because there is no other measurable draw from their circuit.

[time2roll]

The hard part is pulling new 6/3 romex from the cord entry to the new 50a breaker panel. If that is easy access then go for it.

27 amps continuous is on the high side for 30a service. Technically you should limit continuous (3+ hrs) amps to 24 (80%) on 30a supply. Is that two air conditioners running?

Some break out one air conditioner and plug into the 20a GFI direct.

[Community Alumni]

Don't waste your money if you only have one roof AC.

[GordonThree]

If your existing 30 amp shore cable is the proper 10/3 type cable, you are not "dropping" or losing a significant amount of power with a 30 amp load.

Upgrading to 50 amps would let you run a bigger A/C (a 240 volt model for example), or run multiple A/C at the same time and still have power left over for microwave, etc.

30 amp service is 30 amps all on one "circuit" so to speak, a single pole.
50 amp service is 50 amps + 50 amps on two circuits, or double pole. So a 50 amp connection actually gives you 100 amps to play with for 120 volt loads (spread across the two 50 amp circuits) or 50 amps for 240 volt loads.

it makes sense that the EMS would be disabled in 50 amp mode, with 100 amps to work with, there's little reason to shed loads.

edit:

I should have started with this ... upgrading your electrical service alone will not help your existing A/C cool any better

[ScottG]

It's not a big deal to do this mod but it does have to be done right and you can't take any shortcuts. You have to replace your breaker panel with a 220V unit so if your panel is built into your converter it will mean some extra expense. It's far more than just changing the cable.
I have to say that if your friend has another work-around method of doing it without a new panel then he's dangerous and I wouldn't let him do anything of the sort.