had really crappy brakes and have not been able to get it in for warranty. Wasn't sure if it was truck or trailer until I towed my son's trailer last month and all was good. Pulled break away and wheels seemed to lock OK so figured it was somewhere from truck to trailer. Pulled the j box cover under the tongue and poked around, found the wire connector going the the brakes:this is all that was captured in the crimp, 6 strands:I wonder why I only read 3.5 volts at the magnet!

Wow, that's some great work there!It's a good idea for all of us to check out those connections.

Nice job finding this problem. Its funny all you can find when you get looking.

I use these for that application:https://www.waytekwire.com/products?pSearch=multiple%20sealed%20wire%20connector&psType=EPerfectly waterproof sealed for all weather conditions.Those crimp caps are for inside work.

Now you need to go to each wheel and check wire connections for brake Magnets.

I had a brake magnet that didn't have the wire stripped and was crimped on the insulation. This sure is quality stuff being produced.

fixed my brakes | Good Sam Community

All_I_could_aff
Explorer
Sep 11, 2018
Heat shrink tubing is my best friend
down_home
Explorer II
Sep 11, 2018
No crimps for me if I can get to it. Twist good Solder and heat shrink tubing liquid tape tape and make sure wires are not just hanging loose.
seaeagle2
Explorer
Sep 09, 2018
They also make crimps that are different sizes on each side. ie Blue on one side and yellow on the other.
nayther
Explorer
Sep 06, 2018
hooked up to move it last night and brakes seem to work fine. Will pull it out for the weekend tomorrow and adjust the gain but already sleeping better.
mike-s
Explorer
Sep 04, 2018
theoldwizard1 wrote:
Use a piece of scrap wire (or the fourth wire)and do the same for the remaining wires.
Much easier to just strip twice as much insulation from the last wire and then bend it in half to make it work.
nayther
Explorer
Sep 04, 2018
theoldwizard1 wrote:
Do a good 3 wire splice/tap is not easy to do. Here is my method, which is also what I do for a 4 wire splice/tap.
Start with butt splice that is one size LARGER than is required
Strip all wires
Twist together 2 from different circuits (in the picture above, the back and on blue)
Insert and crimp this into one end of the butt splice
Use a piece of scrap wire (or the fourth wire)and do the same for the remaining wires. Trim the scrap off and close to the splice as possible.
Heat shrink (either a separate piece or use shrinkable insulated butt splices) are a MUST !

I soldered and used shrink wrap, nothing better. Might redo all the connections next, very suspicious now.
theoldwizard1
Explorer II
Sep 03, 2018
Do a good 3 wire splice/tap is not easy to do. Here is my method, which is also what I do for a 4 wire splice/tap.
Start with butt splice that is one size LARGER than is required
Strip all wires
Twist together 2 from different circuits (in the picture above, the back and on blue)
Insert and crimp this into one end of the butt splice
Use a piece of scrap wire (or the fourth wire)and do the same for the remaining wires. Trim the scrap off and close to the splice as possible.
Heat shrink (either a separate piece or use shrinkable insulated butt splices) are a MUST !
time2roll
Nomad
Sep 03, 2018
If you have a DC clamp-on ammeter... check each wheel is getting about three amps when the controller is applied manually.
nayther
Explorer
Sep 03, 2018
Old-Biscuit wrote:
Now you need to go to each wheel and check wire connections for brake Magnets.

Need to check ALL THE CONNECTIONS!
nayther
Explorer
Sep 03, 2018
Old-Biscuit wrote:
Now you need to go to each wheel and check wire connections for brake Magnets.

Need to check ALL THE CONNECTIONS!

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