SoundGuy wrote:
Don't understand why Century insists on manufacturing these battery boxes in white plastic instead of conventional black as does NOCO. :h
Atlee wrote:
I would have preferred black, no doubt, but unfortunately, this Century box was the only one I could find that would fit in the battery box holder.
SoundGuy wrote:
Don't understand why Century insists on manufacturing these battery boxes in white plastic instead of conventional black as does NOCO. :h
Matt_Colie wrote:
Altee,
The job is real clean and in coming years you will realize the effort was well spent.
There are some minor things
Not only is Gordon right about "Where's the fuse?", but you have a black wire going to a positive post. At least get some read tape to mark it. That is the kind of thing that will get screwed up when you least can afford it.
In the pictures, it looks like the cables to the bank are different sizes. While this may never matter, If you have charging difficulties, this could be a factor.
I have been changing owners boats that had paralleled 12V over to 6V in series until the money ran out a few years back. To a man, they saw an improvement in the available house power.
Matt
DrewE wrote:
Looks very good to me. You'll find that it's a good improvement over what you had before, no doubt.
The 2 gauge wire is probably heavier than you need, but there's certainly no harm in that. Replacing the leads to the RV with heavier ones would have greater benefit (but also greater cost and greater difficulty in installation).
GordonThree wrote:
Sorry to be "that guy", but where's the fuse?
GordonThree wrote:
I'm glad your psychic powers confirmed the presence of a current interrupting device.
ktmrfs wrote:SoundGuy wrote:Matt_Colie wrote:
Not only is Gordon right about "Where's the fuse?"...
Why would the OP need a "fuse" when no doubt that positive battery cable running back to the trailer first goes directly to a resettable circuit breaker, most likely mounted on the trailer's A-frame. That's the "fuse". I'd agree though, regardless of the colour of wire used I'd mark each as POS and NEG for ease of identification. :)
well, on the fuse. First, it's highly likely that the trailer fuse
1) is an automatic reset, which means it will open, close, open close....get the picture for a short
2) highly likely it is not rated to interupt the current that the battery bank can deliver and can end up not being a fuse but a welded shut contact
3) won't protect if the battery cable shorts BEFORE the trailer fuse.
On my trailers I have a appropriate sized and rated fuse at or very near the battery bank.
And second, I replace the typical factory trailer breaker with one that is NOT automatic reset, but manual reset.
kd7kbk wrote:
Battery mounted fuse
Designing 2 different battery systems for my 5th wheel and my house to power my Ham Radio shack with a SGC-500 PowerCube Amp. It can pull 90A. Safety first with large battery banks that you can basically arc weld with.
SoundGuy wrote:Matt_Colie wrote:
Not only is Gordon right about "Where's the fuse?"...
Why would the OP need a "fuse" when no doubt that positive battery cable running back to the trailer first goes directly to a resettable circuit breaker, most likely mounted on the trailer's A-frame. That's the "fuse". I'd agree though, regardless of the colour of wire used I'd mark each as POS and NEG for ease of identification. :)
