Trim work in RV any suggestions

Back side up. If your trying to cut with the finish side up, turn it over.

What Don said - I've also had good results by wrapping the trim with masking tape at the cut point (you have to make your measurement and mark on top of the tape) before cutting. Helps control splintering on both sides and the masking tape is easily removed.

Move the blade slowly through the wood. I've seen guys have a tendency with a chop saw or table saw to slam the saw into the wood like a salami through a slicer. Go slowly with the blade and let the saw do the work, if you are using a sharp carbide fine-tooth blade you have nice clean cuts.

After cutting thru the piece you are cutting pull the wood piece away from the blade instead of allowing the blade to make a second pass along the piece you just cut.

All of the above. I'm assuming your using a miter saw. I've got an 80T blade on mine (w/ a negative hook). Use blue tape on cut line and cut thru it. Go slow until you get the hang of things.

Actually, for the size of our RV, I'd probably forgo the CMS and use my inexpensive miter box and handsaw.

Really tight inside cuts get coped.


After doing this for awhile, I realized why good trim carpenters are so expensive. ;)

If you're going to paint the trim, maybe get some PVC/composite trim rather than wood. It has its drawbacks (it tends to sag/bend more than wood when you would prefer it not to, for instance), but it doesn't splinter out like wood sometimes likes to.

A nice fine hand saw and an old-fashioned miter box (or a keen eye) can make a very smooth and splinter-free cut with only a wee bit of skill.

The most important thing is having the right blade and it should be sharp. If the blade has been used for a while, it can help to clean off any buildup of gum and pitch. You want the exposed face up or down as needed depending on the saw you are using. Also depends on the wood species and direction of the grain. Sometimes it's necessary to experiment with 2 or 3 blades to find the best one.

Depending on your installation detail, maybe you can round over exposed edges by hand or with a router.

Painter's tape can help. Sometimes you can clamp a scrap piece of wood for backup against your finish piece to prevent tearaway. Another thing you can try is scoring the wood with a sharp utility knife first. This can work surprisingly well once you've got the hang of it. A really nice clean cut can be made with a thin-bladed flexible hand saw like a Japanese carpenter's saw or flush cut saw as in the photos which have a high tpi. You would clamp a piece of wood to your work piece and hold the blade against it while cutting. I've had one of the 2-sided ones for a long time and has been really handy for a lot of misc. things.

Be thankful it's not the vinyl/paper wrapped faux wood they use in RVs. I special ordered a couple of 8' lengths of 1x2 from our dealer for some cabinetry work in our TT and found that the stuff is a real b**ch to cut cleanly. I have a chop saw but didn't want to chance it and had my next neighbor, a cabinet maker cut it for me and even he had trouble and after trying several blades. Can't even sand the cuts to clean them up.

FWIW, even after years of college, the most useful and enjoyable classes I have EVER taken, bar none, are woodworking 11 & 12 in high school decades ago... :)

Could you describe the saw and the type of wood you are cutting?
As others have said, taping and backing with another piece of wood will bring good results.

A table saw with the correct blade will work the best as the blade turns down into the piece, rather than a miter saw that spins the blade up, into the work.

For trimming, I use a Hitachi miter saw with a new Freud 80T blade. There are better blades but the Freud will not even discolor the cut of a varnished piece, when new, and they are cheaper than other offerings.

I also have a Dozuki but my Bushido is too low for accuracy.

westend wrote:
Could you describe the saw and the type of wood you are cutting?
As others have said, taping and backing with another piece of wood will bring good results.

A table saw with the correct blade will work the best as the blade turns down into the piece, rather than a miter saw that spins the blade up, into the work.

For trimming, I use a Hitachi miter saw with a new Freud 80T blade. There are better blades but the Freud will not even discolor the cut of a varnished piece, when new, and they are cheaper than other offerings.

I also have a Dozuki but my Bushido is too low for accuracy.

Op here...Thanks to everybody for the replies. (Experts please don't laugh, but here goes)

The type of wood... Well I'm not even sure. It's Home Depot trim. All I know is that it matches my color and is not a compressed cardboard. Last couple of lengths I cut were from a manual miter box with a "back saw". Had better results from when I first stared with a circular saw with a blade that said it was for "finish" work or words to that effect. I was pretty good at following my marked line but the saw sure chewed up the wood near the cut.

This weekend I'm going to a "Rockler" woodworking store near me. They used to give couple hour seminars on different woodworking subjects. I'll see if they still have them available. If so I'll sign up.

Probably be worth my time as I've got a few projects to do in RV and around house. Not to mention I was sort of surprised at the cost of the trim I bought.

(Edit part) just found their class on line. I'm going, (I realize some class will be an advertisement) But after some classes maybe when it comes to finish work it won't look like I used my chain saw.

Thanks


Saturdays

5/30/2015 Rockler Basic Turning: Basic Bowl Turning - 9:30AM
Learn the basics and how easy it is to turn bowls when you are using the right tools and the correct techniques.

5/30/2015 Rockler Innovation Day: Box Joint Jigs - 11AM
Make precise, tight-fitting box joints with your router!

6/6/2015 Rockler Basic Turning: Drawer Slide Installation - 9:30AM
Learn the basics and how easy it is to install drawer slides using the Rockler jig and without the jig by measuring.

6/6/2015 Rockler Innovation Day: Dado & Coping Jigs - 11AM
Cut perfectly fitted dados for a wide range of plywood thicknesses, and see how this Smooth-running coping sled ensures perfectly square coped rail ends with virtually zero tear-out!

6/13/2015 Table Saw Setup and Jigs - 9:30AM
Set up your table saw for accurate cuts and Joints. See the latest Rockler jigs to make using your table saw fast and productive.

6/13/2015 Rockler Innovation Day: Small & Large Box Spline Jigs - 11AM
Dress up your mitered corner joints and add strength too, with the Rockler Router Table Spline Jigs!

6/20/2015 What's Turning Day: Segmented Bowls - 9:30AM
See Jeff create beautiful segmented bowls using his simple jig and Techniques.

6/20/2015 Rockler Innovation Day: Thin Rip, Cove, & Taper Jigs - 11AM
See how these jigs help make ripping thin strips, cutting custom coves, and tapered cuts fast, easy and more precise.

6/27/2015 What's Turning Day: Pen Turning - 9:30AM
Come see how fun & easy it is to turn your own custom made pen!

6/27/2015 21st Century Woodworking: CNC Shark - 11AM
Bring the speed and precision of computer-controlled machinery to your shop with this top value CNC system!

pconroy328 wrote:
All of the above. I'm assuming your using a miter saw. I've got an 80T blade on mine (w/ a negative hook). Use blue tape on cut line and cut thru it. Go slow until you get the hang of things.

Actually, for the size of our RV, I'd probably forgo the CMS and use my inexpensive miter box and handsaw.

Really tight inside cuts get coped.


After doing this for awhile, I realized why good trim carpenters are so expensive. ;)

Negative hook is more for cutting Aluminum.