Broken Fridge

not too up on the specifics of the operations either, but maybe shut it down for a few minutes, and re start. I am sure you have already double checked the power source and it is getting power, at least beer won't get warm while you run on gas. others on the forum will get you going. Good Luck!

I would be looking at a failed circuit board.
Here is test.
Turn off the 120 volt supply to the rig. Locate the two wires that go to the element on the circuit board. Connect a known good 120 volt supply to the element directly. See if the refer cools. You should notice cooling in the refer and heat in the stack in a very short period of time. Maybe thirty minutes.
THIS IS ONLY A TEST! Do not leave unit un attended!
A poor contact in the circuit board relay could be causing the problem.

Your test of the heating element is not the best. If you had been using propane some time back it may still be warm. Simply do an ohm test of the heating element's 2 wires. If it's open, it's bad....should have like 40 to 50 ohms resistance if good. I'd bet its bad. I've done way too many of them. They usually run $40-$50. rockin'

YEP.....if you had operated it on propane then flue could have still been warm from gas flame

On lower control board is a 5A glass fuse.that is for the electric element
Electric element is a 325W (#0173742180). Unplug leads from lower board and test resistance across the leads.......should be 44 ohms

Unplugging electric element from board and plugging it into a 120V AC source is usually a test for whether or not cooling unit is functioning. It will show if element works but doesn't mean lower board is bad.
You know your cooling unit works cause it cools on propane.

Check the 5A fuse and test the element resistance....either one bad---replace element.

X2 on the circuit board. I had to replace mine when I had the 99. Mobile repair can figure that out in seconds.

The other thing is find your manual. Those fridges have 'several' fuses hidden all over it. The manual is the map to find them all. Or go on line that's where I found it.

feel like a fool ..lol the entire unit is down . the heater element checks out . fuses in circuit box are ok . there is a nice blue flame on lp side . turning unit off and on I can hear the click when it lights . also hear it shut off . i will pull roof vent off tomorrow and look for a blockage .
Any thing else I should look for ? Thank you Everyone for the speedy responses earlier today . I was surprised and impressed

thanks Don

So you are now saying electric element works and lp works but fridge DOESN'T get cold????

IF that is correct.....
Unplug thermistor leads on lower board (P2 connector)
Place glass of water with thermometer in food section
Turn fridge ON (electric) and let it run 24 hrs.
Temp of water should be below 38*F

If not.....cooling unit is plugged/bad

how do I go about unplugging unit Old -Biscuit ?

In outside compartment...lower left side is control module (circuit board)

Remove cover......
Top left corner are 2 separate connectors P1 & P2
P1 is a 6 pin connector (5 wires)
Below it is P2-----2 pin connector/2 wires

Unplug P2 connector----that is the leads from thermistor that is in clip on the far right fin in food section.
With it unplugged-----no thermostat control so fridge will run continuously and should get food section down below 38*F.
If food section stays warm then cooling unit is bad.
If food section does get cold then replace thermistor.

NOW------

IF you are asking about 'unlugging unit' and you mean the fridge cooling unit.
Well in that case you don't.....plugged/blocked cooling unit is done/dead/no good/permanent

You then buy a replacement cooling unit
OR
Another RV fridge
OR
a residential/compressor fridge and install solar/batteries/inverter
(or use gen----only go where you have AC power source)

ok thank you very much for the information Old -Biscuit.