Lightest slider hitch?

Mike,

We do have room in the driveway for 60' with 50 amp and water no sewer, BUT that spot is taken by a shiny Redwood !

Weekend road trip. Have room in your driveway for a 60 rig and full hook-ups? If so, we'll come down and have a grand time.

Cummins12V98 wrote:

ford truck guy wrote:

Flashman wrote:
What does that B&W hitch weigh?

Here - B & W Specs

153# I juts went through this with my new Ford.... Compared to my old Pullrits slider, it's a feather... AND - remove the 2 clips and remove the coupler at 75#... that leaves the base at 78#.. easy peasy

YEA but your Grandson can't pick it up for you. ;)

No grandkids.. oldest daughter (26) was supposed to get married late June
..no idea when now

"Blue Ox Super Ride hitch"

Looks interesting. I would take that well before a few others.

Consider the Blue Ox Super Ride hitch. It does not slide, instead it hinges fore and aft when needed. If your desire for lightness is based on easy install/removal, the Super Ride breaks down into three pieces. It also has a unique wrap-around jaw and an imbedded lube plate. Unlike the B&W and Andersen hitches touted, the Super Ride also offers a cushioned ride with pocketed air springs.

Cummins12V98 wrote:

If you are concerned about 1-200# pounds you are cutting things too close and need a bigger truck!

Bingo!!!!

Either bigger truck or smaller 5er.

Thermoguy wrote:
I'm not to familiar with the Ram Mega Cab, but I don't think you need to worry about hitch weight. Your issue is, like most, payload capacity. With a SRW and wanting to haul a toy hauler you are going to have limitations anyway. If you are worried about a 200-300 lb hitch vs a 100 lb hitch, then you might be looking at too big of trailer. You can add too much weight to the trailer by throwing in some more stuff or adding firewood to the bed of the truck or something. One of the posts mentions a 3500 payload capacity. So, as long as the trailer you are looking at isn't coming close to that payload, then the weight of the hitch isn't an issue. You should get the hitch that fits your needs and truck trailer usage not shop by weight. I would consider an Anderson if I didn't already have a B&W but simply because I have both a 5th Wheel and Gooseneck Trailers. If I didn't have both, the 5th Wheel hitch would be all I would need.

Just make sure the trailer pin weight isn't pushing the limitations of your truck and you shouldn't have to think about it. But, also remember, those numbers are not struck in stone. Some will feel the truck is overwhelmed even if the trailer isn't close to the actual number on paper, and others will feel they can go hundreds of pounds over that number. Just depends on the person, where you are driving, and your experience.

Good Luck

Good points, The mega cab is a good choice for its people space however that mega cab is bigger and heavier that the typical crew cab. The size of the Mega Cab ultimately reduces your payload capacity. You can believe in GVWR or you can focus on RAWR either way the size of the mega cab will have a negative impact on the carrying capacity of your truck vs. a non mega cab model.
In the long run you need to choose a truck with adequate payload for what you plan to tow. A lighter hitch will not make up for insufficient payload. If you think it does your numbers are just too tight.

I'm not to familiar with the Ram Mega Cab, but I don't think you need to worry about hitch weight. Your issue is, like most, payload capacity. With a SRW and wanting to haul a toy hauler you are going to have limitations anyway. If you are worried about a 200-300 lb hitch vs a 100 lb hitch, then you might be looking at too big of trailer. You can add too much weight to the trailer by throwing in some more stuff or adding firewood to the bed of the truck or something. One of the posts mentions a 3500 payload capacity. So, as long as the trailer you are looking at isn't coming close to that payload, then the weight of the hitch isn't an issue. You should get the hitch that fits your needs and truck trailer usage not shop by weight. I would consider an Anderson if I didn't already have a B&W but simply because I have both a 5th Wheel and Gooseneck Trailers. If I didn't have both, the 5th Wheel hitch would be all I would need.

Just make sure the trailer pin weight isn't pushing the limitations of your truck and you shouldn't have to think about it. But, also remember, those numbers are not struck in stone. Some will feel the truck is overwhelmed even if the trailer isn't close to the actual number on paper, and others will feel they can go hundreds of pounds over that number. Just depends on the person, where you are driving, and your experience.

Good Luck

Cummins12V98 wrote:
NEVER would anyone place a 5er hitch behind the rear axle in the days of drilling and bolting down your own hitch.

Can you run behind your rear axle? Sure and some do. Doesn't make it the best choice.

I would consider a PulRite steel or Andersen steel version in the normal ahead of axle position if towing a light 5er. The aluminum version at 24k is a JOKE and WILL cause bed deflection towing a heavy 5er.

OP do your research, you will find the happiest are B&W hitch owners. ZERO question if you are hitched or not with a simple solid latching system and no silly color coded latching.

Oh and another thing, no one has shown a good way to lock your hitch to the RV with an Andersen.

I won't go any further on this Andersen hitch in front or behind the axle, but speaking from experience you are wrong, and its done every day. We go thru this every time the subject comes up. If you have towed with the Andersen ,then you would know.

As far as locking the hitch, not sure what you mean, I don't lock my conventional hitch ,nor do I worry about locking this Andersen , but if you mean the latch ,its a pretty positive lock, and turn. There are a few things I do, and I do EVERY time I leave my fifth wheel ,and truck unattended. I check the tires, lights, and make sure the hitch is as I left it latched, and ready to go. I think it foolish not too. I don't need a pile of padlocks, and keys to make sure my hitch is still latched ,and no one has messed with it. Its part of towing anything, and it does not require padlocks .

NEVER would anyone place a 5er hitch behind the rear axle in the days of drilling and bolting down your own hitch.

Can you run behind your rear axle? Sure and some do. Doesn't make it the best choice.

I would consider a PulRite steel or Andersen steel version in the normal ahead of axle position if towing a light 5er. The aluminum version at 24k is a JOKE and WILL cause bed deflection towing a heavy 5er.

OP do your research, you will find the happiest are B&W hitch owners. ZERO question if you are hitched or not with a simple solid latching system and no silly color coded latching.

Oh and another thing, no one has shown a good way to lock your hitch to the RV with an Andersen.