I have Neverlube Dexter hubs that came with the fifthwheel that are rated at 8000 lbs per axle, though the Alpenlite trailer literature says I only have 7000 lbs axles. I don't know why that is, and it's probably irrelevant. I'm glad I have big brakes because it's a heavy 16000 lbs trailer. Anyway I started losing my brakes on my last trip of around 600 miles. Scary! Upon checking them back home, one magnet was no good, drawing no amps, but the odd thing is that my passenger side front brakes had no lining left at all. All other hubs had great lining. The oddity is that three years ago on a trip to the Canadian Rockies (if you've never been, go!) my brake on the same hub locked up. We dismantled it in the Banff campground (fun) and discovered that the brake lining had come loose from their metal backing and just jammed the whole hub. This is the same hub that once again has lost all the lining. I don't know if they fell off again (we replace the entire backing assembly with a new one we found in Calgary), or if they just wore down, but they were gone and it was metal to metal. What's happening on that hub? Tires all wear evenly, but for some reason that hub gives out. This time, we also found a questionable ground connection where the brake wires first connect with the wires that then go to each brake. It seemed corroded. We are redoing each wiring connection, but we don't really know if any were really bad. So, does anyone have an idea about why that hub does this while all the other brake lings look great? The hubs are 12.25x3.375.

Check the voltage at each magnet

Junk all of the complete brake assemblies and start all over from the backing plates out. They only cost around $50-75 per wheel. Then scrap all the wiring and replace it with new. You have an old trailer, why waste a buch of time on it when you can just replace it all for not much money..B.O.

Need good voltage at each magnet and 2.5(+) amps when fully applied via manual lever on brake controller.That means good battery and tight clean connections to/from magnets and ground on trailer frame And that one hub that is wear faster......probably adjusted to tight and had a better magnet connection then others.Each wheel needs to be adjusted initially and then again as shoe linings wear down.Jack each wheel off ground.Adjust star wheel on adjuster screw (bottom of drum thru slot) while turning turning tire until tire stopsThen back off star wheel just until tire rotates with a slight drag on shoes.As for the 8000# vs 7000#8000# is an upgrade option----------7000# standard.Literature reflects standard equipment

I wish my assemblies were so cheap but they are close to two hundred fifty dollars a piece. They are very large. We are redoing all the wiring and did check voltage at each magnet. That's how we found the bad one. The bad magnet was on the same axle as the hub that eats brake linings. I did just begin to wonder that if that magnet has been bad four years could that cause the first failure?

Maybe that one brake has been doing all of the work, due to incorrect adjustment, wiring problems on the other wheels.

Odd Repetitive Trouble with my Alpenlite brakes

larry_barnhart
Explorer
Jan 09, 2014
we are still on our original brakes. I would have thought we should have worn them out but still good.
chevman
restlesswind
Explorer
Jan 09, 2014
the post by Chris leads me to believe that a wire going to that wheel is shorting to ground (probably intermittently).My guess is that it's inside the hollow axle shaft. A good reason to re-route the wiring.

I have the same setup on my fiver.7k axles 8k brakes w/never-lube bearings.
The trailer weighs right at 15k the braking is excellent.I also have a
MaxBrake controller and PacBrake EB. Over 65K miles towing and the brake shoes are less than 25% worn.
Me_Again
Explorer III
Jan 09, 2014
We have to understand olms law here! If that one magnet was shorted out with very low resistance most of the current would go to ground at that brake with hardly any at the other three.

Let's say three magnets are at 4 olms each and one at 1 olm. Current takes the path of least resistance with most going to the 1 olm one.

I would be checking the resistance of each magnet when you take it apart to solve the mystery. Keep track of each magnets wheel position. Measure wire to wire and each wire to metal body of the magnets. Build a little chart and see what you read with the meter.

Everyone should have a good multi meter and learn how to use it. Chris
Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Jan 09, 2014
howardwheeler wrote:
We got everything back together, and the braking is back to normal, which is adequate but wish it had more stopping power. Amps are good. But I'm still interested in the dynamics of the four brakes. Is it possible that when one magnet goes out that the pressure on braking on the opposite side of the axle increases? Does the front axle take more of the brake load? It just gets me that all the other brake shoes have lots of life (they're big shoes), but this one brake has failed twice. I just don't know about the differing loads on multiple axle brakes. Any experts?

Do what I suggested earlier. Install a disk brake kit. My Dad's axles were the same as yours. He finally got sick of dealing with the electric brakes.
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Jan 09, 2014
howardwheeler wrote:
We got everything back together, and the braking is back to normal, which is adequate but wish it had more stopping power. Amps are good. But I'm still interested in the dynamics of the four brakes. Is it possible that when one magnet goes out that the pressure on braking on the opposite side of the axle increases? Does the front axle take more of the brake load? It just gets me that all the other brake shoes have lots of life (they're big shoes), but this one brake has failed twice. I just don't know about the differing loads on multiple axle brakes. Any experts?

Each brake operates independently based on voltage/amps to magnet, contact surface, brake shoe lining and adjustment.
One brake going out doesn't increase/decrease other brakes operation/function just the overall stopping power of rig.
Weight on each wheel will affect that wheels braking ability.
rhagfo
Explorer III
Jan 09, 2014
B.O. Plenty wrote:
Junk all of the complete brake assemblies and start all over from the backing plates out. They only cost around $50-75 per wheel. Then scrap all the wiring and replace it with new. You have an old trailer, why waste a buch of time on it when you can just replace it all for not much money..

B.O.

X2 to this,
This is my late winter early spring project! While my brake assemblies are in good shape, I plan on replacing all the brake wiring, with heaver gauge and all soldered connections.
I will be doing this and adding a real set of backup lights to the 5er.
howardwheeler
Explorer
Jan 09, 2014
We got everything back together, and the braking is back to normal, which is adequate but wish it had more stopping power. Amps are good. But I'm still interested in the dynamics of the four brakes. Is it possible that when one magnet goes out that the pressure on braking on the opposite side of the axle increases? Does the front axle take more of the brake load? It just gets me that all the other brake shoes have lots of life (they're big shoes), but this one brake has failed twice. I just don't know about the differing loads on multiple axle brakes. Any experts?
restlesswind
Explorer
Jan 09, 2014
According to Dexter,the 8,000 lbs per axle should pull 3 amps on each magnet.
When all are working properly there should be 12 amp draw.I could be a little
more or less.(Mine draw 13 amps)
Possibly a short at the magnet on the wheel with the bad brake.Replacing the
wiring may be the best way to go.
You might do away with the wires in the axle tube,that is a good place for trouble to develop.
Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Jan 08, 2014
Skip the electric brakes and go with a disk brake kit from Kodiak. My Dad and I did so on his 96 HH Premier this summer and he is thrilled with the brake performance. His RV is heavy also. Well worth the money. Easy install.
Veebyes
Explorer II
Jan 08, 2014
Sounds like I may have similar issues with my 2007 Alpenlite brakes. Also self adjusting. I am one for doing touch checks at rest stops & any stops when driving the mountains. Rear axel drums, both sides, get warmer from braking. Bearing temps similar all round during extended highway running.

Planning to replace whole plates, magnets & shoes all round though I suspect front ones will be perfectly good. Will clean them up & keep as spares. Will also get a couple spare bearings.

Planning another Alaska trip & it is nice to at least have vital spares onboard eliminating a potential shipping wait or absurd amount for express shipping up there.

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