Reese R20 - struggling to unhitch

I don't have an R20, but I never lift the 5er's weight entirely off the hitch before releasing the hitch. Never have seen the need, just take most of it off and then release the jaws and then pull out, hitch (truck) typicality rises about an inch or so.

I agree. I hav a R16 and never take al the weight off of it. Listen to the landing gear, pull latch and pull out (Slowly!!!!!).

I used a Reese 20K for several years. I have not missed it. It was a pain to hook up and a pain to unhitch. Finally went to Pullright, so much better. Bought a dually so have a long bed and went to a B&W puck type hitch. this hitch is a dream to hook up and unhook. Sorry I can't be of any help, but I never found the formula for why the hitch just would not work. I did discover after reading instructions, lower hitch trailer when hitching so lip would raise trailer and slide into the hitch. That did help.

I have the R20 and just use my level on the side of the trailer to know when to hitch and unhitch.

I have an R20 hitch. I have no problem knowing when the pin box is off of the lube plate. I look for a break in the contact point. Not necessarily the daylight that a lot of other hitches use, but just a break in the contact between the two. I also lower the legs to just touch the ground, raise the handle and pull out, then finish lowering legs enough to raise pin box off the lube plate until I see a break in the contact between the two. Disconnect umbilical and drive away.

I think it's Hensley that makes a 1/8" slip plate.

Good suggestions here, thanks. I'm not able to pull the lever until the weight is off the hitch, though. So that must be why I'm struggling. Is that normal?

With these Reese hitches, the main reason they will be difficult to open is because the pin is pushing rearward against the jaws. The design of the jaws is such that they won't open with any pressure on them. You might have to use the truck in reverse gear to put rearward force on the pin, while someone else does the release handle operation.

Raising the pinbox off the hitch head allows it to swivel a little bit, which can be effective in relieving contact between the jaws and pin, but that is not supposed to be necessary, and if you can't do that due to the lube plate thickness, your only option may be as I suggested above. You will have to decide whether that full face lube plate is worth the hassle of a 2 person disconnect.

Personally, I would be worried if there was zero clearance between the bottom side of the jaws and the bottom hub on the pin. Too much chance that the jaws won't close properly in the groove. I can think of a couple of ways to fix that, but not simple to do. Removing the lube plate is the only simple thing.

If its the jaws holding it just chock the camper wheels put truck in reverse without foot on gas pedal and pull your truck emergency brake,put truck in park and pressure will be off jaws.IF thats your problem.Thats the problem I always had but now I do the above and it always releases.

From all this talk about trouble unhitching I understand why most damaged truck beds have Reese hitches in them!