My gray water #1 tank valve on my 5th wheel trailer would not close. I dismantled the valve and found the tank drain pipe blocked with construction debris (plastic shavings, etc. that had built up over the past 4 years). I cleaned it out and reassembled the valve. The valve leaked where it connects to the pipe flanges! I disassembled it again, bought some new rubber seal gaskets (Valterra replacement seals) and put it back together. It still leaks!? I'm wondering if I have the seals in backwards? They are conical shaped. Which way do they go on? Does the wider diameter side face the gate valve blade or does it face the tank side? I used Vaseline to kind of hold the seals in place so they would not get distorted when I bolted the valve to the flanges. I guess they could still have gotten out of place, but I took the valve apart again and they appear to have been in place? That's why I think maybe I put the seals on backwards? I can take it apart again and reverse the seals. However, I thought I would query this forum first and see if anyone can help. Also, is it possible to over tighten the bolts and distort the seals?Jerry O.

Moved from Forum Technical Support

They prolly slid out of their channel when you slid the valve into the housings. I tried 3-4 times then finally split them wide enough not to have to slide the valve in, just position it and couple the halves back together. I do believe the wider side faces the valve but not 100% sure. I'd have to see it again. It's been 6 yrs since the last repair. Do NOT over tighten those bolts, you can squash the seals. You'll get it, keep trying.

I believe the flat side goes to the pipe if I remember right. As another poster mentioned getting it spread far enough is the key to making it easier.

Email or call Vaterra and ask. That does not sound like a fun job.Good luck on your next try.

Jerry, I am a firm believer in not trying to fix valves. If I have to work on one, the first thing I do is get a new Valterra assembly.If the fit is tight between the flanges that can be a bear on the install. Last time i concocted a method using wood to pry it apart and hold it there (just barely far enough) to slip the new one in without disturbing the gaskets.Good luck.

Wast Valve Repair | Good Sam Community

laknox
Nomad
Feb 24, 2015
Shouldn't use Vaseline as a lube because it's petroleum-based and could soften the seals. Much better to get a silicone lube.

Lyle
fla-gypsy
Explorer
Feb 24, 2015
mobilcastle wrote:
mbrower wrote:
When I replaced mine, I could not get the flanges spread enough to get the valve in without distorting the seal. I finally cut the sewer pipe and bought the flexible (rubber) pipe coupler to put it back together. Worked fantastic and would be very easy to change the valve out if it ever goes bad again.
Good idea.

Great idea
sk734
Explorer
Feb 23, 2015
mbrower wrote:
When I replaced mine, I could not get the flanges spread enough to get the valve in without distorting the seal. I finally cut the sewer pipe and bought the flexible (rubber) pipe coupler to put it back together. Worked fantastic and would be very easy to change the valve out if it ever goes bad again.
Good idea.
mbrower
Explorer
Feb 22, 2015
When I replaced mine, I could not get the flanges spread enough to get the valve in without distorting the seal. I finally cut the sewer pipe and bought the flexible (rubber) pipe coupler to put it back together. Worked fantastic and would be very easy to change the valve out if it ever goes bad again.
Coach-man
Explorer
Feb 22, 2015
I have only done this once, but if the valve is hard to move, in either direction, you have done it wrong! You should not have to use any sort of lubicrant to make it move easily. Assuming you have placed the seals correctly, just loosely hand tighten the screws, and move the assembly until it is easy to operate the valve, then tighten, do not over tighten, and you should be done! Good luck.
Dave_and_Sue
Explorer
Feb 22, 2015
I just finished putting a new valve in my black tank.Different manufacturer.A Bristol.On mine the cable broke(under warranty)and I had to replace the whole assembly.Just spread the two pipes a little farther apart.Went in easy.On the Bristol,the seals wider part went towards the valve.You don't want any thing hanging up at the valve to hold it from closing.
Dave_H_M
Explorer II
Feb 22, 2015
Jerry, I am a firm believer in not trying to fix valves. If I have to work on one, the first thing I do is get a new Valterra assembly.

If the fit is tight between the flanges that can be a bear on the install. Last time i concocted a method using wood to pry it apart and hold it there (just barely far enough) to slip the new one in without disturbing the gaskets.

Good luck.
sk734
Explorer
Feb 22, 2015
Email or call Vaterra and ask. That does not sound like a fun job.
Good luck on your next try.
fla-gypsy
Explorer
Feb 22, 2015
I believe the flat side goes to the pipe if I remember right. As another poster mentioned getting it spread far enough is the key to making it easier.
rattleNsmoke
Explorer
Feb 21, 2015
They prolly slid out of their channel when you slid the valve into the housings. I tried 3-4 times then finally split them wide enough not to have to slide the valve in, just position it and couple the halves back together. I do believe the wider side faces the valve but not 100% sure. I'd have to see it again. It's been 6 yrs since the last repair. Do NOT over tighten those bolts, you can squash the seals. You'll get it, keep trying.