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TexasPride22's avatar
TexasPride22
Explorer
Oct 04, 2017

Got a 18 salem 27dbk trailer. Using it for full time living.

Ok before anyone mentions it, i got this trailer because it was in my price point and its brand new,
I love this trailer. And its fairly decent I keep it on 75* on low and its perfect temp (i work second shift so no big deal)

Winter- texas gets below 32* i have thought about getting some thick insulation and putting it in the under belly with plywood how to attach it I have no idea. Even adding insulation to plywood boards and making some siding for it?? Plus i can store my excess hose under there and only protect the external hose. Or is adding the siding over kill plus its expensive..

Or am i over thinking this I would really not want to run my trailers heater, since propane gets expensive currently it will cost around $70 to fill up a 30lb bottle.. and my pockets dont go that deep to run it full time.. (will be using a single space heater with a heating blanket.)
  • Ok I apologize for leaving some key details out,
    Texas-central location (temple, tx to be exact)
    My electric is included in my monthly rent payment. And its a 30amp trailer. So I imagine that if i use microwave to cut off heater just like the ac?

    What my dad mentioned to me is to take a big bucket coil the hose up put insulation in there and cover the top, and add (I forget the name) but its like them pool noodles for the exposed hose. That should help.

    Thank you for the advice.

    Edit i just thought about this it would be a great idea to cut just a big enough hole to get to the valves to drain the tanks? Also it mentioned that my fresh water tank is enclosed and in a heated compartment. Don’t really like that idea of using it in the winter. If its heated I guess i can route that heat into the area i am trying to keep warm?

    Also i did some looking on Home Depot website and found a roll of R-30 unfaced 15”x 25’ so i will need 2 of those and some small strips, to cover my 32’ trailer

    Should i do anything to my slide out as well?
    http://www.forestriverinc.com/product-details.aspx?LineID=161&Image=5062&ShowParent=1 the link is showing what’s included on my trailer
  • x-2 on the coroplast, plywood will rot after a couple of years coroplast should last longer, insulate better and be lighter. As far as attaching it, get some large fender washers and use self tapping screws with the big washers to spread the stress. You could even add some metal strips to bridge from one frame member to the next.
  • You didn't mention if you have to pay for electric. If you do not, using space heaters should help keep the rig warm. Just make sure you watch which circuits you're putting them on or you'll run into tripping your breakers. IF you ARE paying for electric, then the cost per BTU of propane is usually lower than electric. If you will be stationary for a long time, check with the local propane supplier. It might be worth checking into renting a 100kb tank and having them come fill it as needed. Usually the propane service is the chepest per gallon in any area.
  • Hello TexasPride22 - one thing that you have not said is what part of Texas you are talking about living in. It will make a difference in your winter prep situation. I have been living in my trailer in SE New Mexico for the past 4 years and being prepared is what counts.

    As has been said, running a supplemental electric heater will help when temps are milder, but you will need to run the furnace to add heat below when it gets freezing. Also consider adding heat to you water hose or running off of the tank. Another thing that got me once was my sewer hose had a slight dip which remained full of grey water and then froze plugging up the hose. Had to work hard to get that sorted out so that I could dump my tanks.

    For your propane cost - the $70 number is extremely high. Here I have been paying $20 for a 30lb fill for the past year or so. Never paid more than about $30.

    Good luck, keep coming back here with questions and people will help.
  • Thank you the $70 is from what the guy at ace hardware told me i have no idea where he got that number.. So even with the extra insulation I would have to run my trailers heater on a lower setting

    We did something like this on my grandmas house (she used to run a small electric heater in a little box that covered the pipes going under the house, added some thick insulation pads i think r30 something. and no electric heater needed). So far it has been great . And this was about 2 years ago. I am not trying to argue, etc just trying to learn since this is my first trailer that $21 could be my gas money to go to work on for the week. And save a little bit of coin in the process where i can.

    I do imagine that corplast will be a lot cheaper vs plywood? How would i go about mounting it? I know its self explanatory 4 10ft sheets or 7 at 6’ long (truck bed length) and I don’t need a trailer for it plus it would be easier to work with?
  • Get some coroplast sheeting -----big box hardware/sign shops etc.
    It is like plastic cardboard and is used to enclose underbelly on trailers

    Couple boxes of self tapping screws

    Some insulation

    And insulate/enclose your trailers underbelly.......while open run a extra heat duct (flex ducting) from furnace discharge plenum into underbelly area so warm air from furnace flows around tanks/valves


    $70 for propane...
    30LB cylinder is 7.4 gallons........propane in TX cost $10/gallon :H

    Even at $3/gallon that is on $21 per 30lb cylinder.

    At 32*F...
    Set furnace for 55*F overnight
    Use space heater day time and early evening....but furnace to keep tanks/valves warm