1994 Damon Ultrasport Class C - Battery won't charge

[bbqandbeer]

Ok, so new to all of this. Just bought a used RV (make/model above), and I have a couple questions. It's on a Ford chassis, and there is one additional battery that I can find for "house" power (in the engine compartment as well), in addition to the battery for the engine.

AC Power: I have one 30 amp cord, for both shore power and generator. This cord plugs into either shore power, or an outlet in the cord storage box, which then gets the power from the generator.

So, my questions are:

Shouldn't the house battery be charging when on shore/genny power? I put a multimeter on the house battery, and there is NO change in voltage when AC service (shore or genny) is plugged in. If I start the engine, that is the only time I show a charging voltage (from the engine alternator).

Does anyone know if this particular motorhome has a charging system in it that should be running off AC connection?

Thanks in advance, and hope I didn't leave anything out that you needed.

[bbqandbeer]

Well, I'll have to look again, since the battery is bad. I'm still thinking I should see a charge at the terminals when the shore power is connected, but let's tackle one thing at a time. First, I need to get a good battery!

[Bordercollie]

Check the set screw connections on the converter charger for proper tightness so that heavy gage output cables provide charging power to the house battery.

You may have an additional switch marked "storage" or "aux battery" When it is on, it connects the converter charger to the house battery. When it is off, it disconnects the house battery from the converter charger and from any 12 volt powered alarms, appliance controls, interior lights, etc., that can gradually discharge the house battery. In most rigs, this switch is located on a display panel that shows fullness of holding tanks, state of battery charge and also has a remote RV generator start switch.

A fully charged good house battery when in storage mode should be able to start the generator and/or provide necessary 12 volt dc power to interior lights when turned on after rig is parked, not driven, for (maybe) three weeks (depending on condition and ambient temperature). When you are camping without shore power and without RV generator running, a good fully charged house battery, at 13.6 volts, may power interior lights and furnace blower, etc, for up to three days. It is not good for batteries to run them down to 12 volts or lower. Get a simple digital voltmeter to check house battery voltage and a "turkey baster" battery filler at an auto supply store to replenish battery fluid levels using distilled water. Liquid must cover the plates, don't over fill. Keep battery connectors clean with a wire brush battery terminal cleaner to assure good electrical conductivity. BTW, the engine starting battery in most rigs is not being charged when the rig is plugged into shore power unless it has a device installed to do so. I have an add-on Trik-L-Start device that diverts some charging power to the engine starting battery. RV's are dependent on having 12 volt dc power as well as 120 volt AC power. Learn as much as you can about both RV electrical systems and how they work together and separately.

If you have 120volt ac power available when parked or in storage, it's good to connect a 12 volt "smart" trickle charger to the house battery and another to the engine starting battery. Look at "Battery Minder" chargers. These will keep the batteries charged but not over charged, while parked or in storage and but not connected to "shore power"

[gkainz]

There's also usually an isolator (looks like a Ford starter solenoid) that separates the house and chassis circuitry on these Fords, typically on the fender or firewall, and an associated Momentary On Push button in the cab somewhere, that normally keeps the house and chassis electrical system separate, but ties them together when the button is pushed. These can fail or have corroded contacts, that can inhibit charging the house battery. Measure the voltages on that solenoid when plugged into shore or generator power as well.

[bbqandbeer]

Man, you guys are super helpful. I'll go look again tonight, and I'll post at the least the make/model of what I find.

[crasster]

Follow the wires from the batteries to the converter if you can. It may be a challenge but a well engineered coach should not put the converter far from the batteries because of the long resistance from cable runs.

If you are able to follow the wires you should find it. Near fuse panels, under table seats, are obvious places. Also look for a "mysterious vent panel" because converters most often have cooling fans.

[cgmartine]

Correction on my previous entry. Upon closer inspection of the brochure, it appears that the Converter and charger is a single unit. It sits right behind the fuse panel. Find the little plastic door to the panel and you will see the fuses. My panel is directly in line and below the microwave oven, but yours may be in a different place. WFCO is still in business, so you should be able to still find a manual on the Internet.

[cgmartine]

My motorhome has a Chinese Converter. It is a WFCO, for World Friendship Co. LTD. The charger and Converter are two separate devices. The WFCO is used in most of the older motorhomes. The charger is right behind the Converter. It sits on the floor and has a cord with a three pronged plug which connects to the Converter. If your Converter is on the bottom of a three drawer cabinet, you will need to remove the lowest drawer so that you can see and access the charger from the top.

[j-d]

Charger and Converter should be together. In our 2002 coach, they're also combined with breaker and fuse panels. Not all are! Our 1984 coach had
Converter/Charger (and the Charger part burned out its breaker)
A 12 VDC Fuse Box (both in a cabinet under the fridge but not together)
A 120 VAC Generator Breaker Panel
A 120 VAC Shore Tie Breaker Panel (both in a cabinet under the stove, across from the fridge)
Can you post Make/Model of what you've found so far?
And/Or Pictures of them?

[bbqandbeer]

j-d wrote:
You need to find your Converter/Charger. When on 120 VAC, the Converter part of this unit, relieves that second battery of the "house" loads, like lights, fans, etc. The Charger part replenishes that same battery. You probably also have a Charging Relay that lets your engine's alternator charge the "house" battery while driving.

The Converter/Charger in our Jayco is incorporated into its "Load Center" where the 120 VAC Breakers and the 12 VDC fuses are. Ours is on the side of the queen bed base. On an older coach we had, it was inside a cabinet. You gotta find that and start checking fuses and connections.

Also, there could be a 12 VDC fuse or breaker near that "house" battery.

Find that system, check fuses and connections, and post the Make/Model of the Converter/Charger (or complete Load Center).

Thank you. That's what I've been struggling with. I can't find any info on where the charger is. I've been all over the converter (where the fuses are, and the AC converts to DC, but can't fine the charging part. Maybe it's behind the whole thing?

[j-d]

You need to find your Converter/Charger. When on 120 VAC, the Converter part of this unit, relieves that second battery of the "house" loads, like lights, fans, etc. The Charger part replenishes that same battery. You probably also have a Charging Relay that lets your engine's alternator charge the "house" battery while driving.

The Converter/Charger in our Jayco is incorporated into its "Load Center" where the 120 VAC Breakers and the 12 VDC fuses are. Ours is on the side of the queen bed base. On an older coach we had, it was inside a cabinet. You gotta find that and start checking fuses and connections.

Also, there could be a 12 VDC fuse or breaker near that "house" battery.

Find that system, check fuses and connections, and post the Make/Model of the Converter/Charger (or complete Load Center).