2002 Diplomat 12 Volt Circuit Board Removal/Repair

[faucet1]

Anyone tried to remove the large 12 Volt Circuit Board on the older Monaco units? The Board(15x10 inches) is mounted inside a plastic box, I suppose for protection from the elements, even though it is inside a compartment below the Drivers side window. In any event, I need to replace the melted Ignition Socket which is soldered into the Circuit Board. If you have removed this Board...how did you get it out of the plastic box with the long mounting/retaining bolts. Especially with the large wiring cable running through/across the box in front of the board. I see no connectors to take the wire apart? Anyone tackled this?

[faucet1]

Replaced the three Sockets(Accessory, Ignition and Headlights), took the unit for a test drive. The New Relays Installed in the new Sockets are really tight as compared to the original ones. Used a Infrared Temperature Sensor to test the heat rise several times during trip, and also had headlights on. The Temperature was just warm to the touch on all three Relays as compared to the old ones. So, maybe that was the problem. FWIW. Thanks for all your posts/help.

[faucet1]

Just saw your reply. Thanks for the suggestion. There are three Relays side by side on that Board. The Accessory and Ignition Relays were getting very hot and was/is shutting power off to the Ignition. I jumped the Ignition relay and was able to try and get home. But, it got dark and I had to turn on the Headlights. Then, that Relay started getting very hot, and finally shut the power off to the Ignition. So....I'm not sure where the problem originates. I am going to start by replacing the Ignition Switch, since that Relay originally was getting very hot, and replace the Headlight Switch since the Dash Lights are almost non-existent and that Relay got hot once I switched the headlights on. Beyond that...I'm open to suggestion.

[rgatijnet1]

Is this the 12 volt panel that has all of the fuses on it? If it is it is probably burned because the headlight circuit was drawing too much current.
You could probably just bypass the socket and just solder all of the connections rather than duplicate the same socket that failed before.

[faucet1]

OK. Pressure is off. Got the Board out....finally. On 2-5th try, wasn't so bad. Just label me a "whine-err."

[Mandalay_Parr]

Text me a picture so I can better help you. Or email if you prefer.
You may call me as well.