2004 Tioga maintenance

[Uncle_Dan]

We recently bought a Ford 450 V-10 Class C Tioga with 36000 miles. It has new rubber and batteries.what else should I have checked/replaced prior to our planned trip to Glacier and beyond? About 5000 miles. Advice would be appreciated. Gary

[Bordercollie]

If yours is like our 2004 26Q, look for the cable TV connector somewhere inside the compartment where shore cable is stored. Connect the cable from the utility post to this connector for cable TV. Push button on plate inside the front TV cabinet when green LED goes out amplifier is off and you can watch Cable TV. You may have to run channel search on TV to find cable channels. Some RV parks only have a few cable channels available. The same compartment next, to the RV generator, also has a receptacle where you plug the shore cable into the generator to get generator's 110vac output into the motorhome when not on shore/campsite power. The two low drain valves are located inside a panel on the rest room wall, hard to reach and hard to turn on and off fully but must be shut off fully or freshwater pump will run on or cycle on and off.

[j-d]

If you have a connector for external TV (like RV park) it should work with the amplifier for your crank-up antenna turned OFF.Here's a Link to the connections on the back side of the wall plate. Somebody may have diddled with the connections to get it to do something different than run up to two TV's from the roof-mounted antenna with the power ON, or park cable with the power OFF.

[Uncle_Dan]

Oh, yes! I forgot that I couldn't get cable TV except by running a cable out the kitchen window to the parks cable. I'll work on that too. I like the suggestions for squeak control. Beautiful day here in MI. today. Thanks again. Gary

[Bordercollie]

When you quiet the screen door you may hear other things. The small window in the entry door is held steady by flimsy plastic tabs that break away inside the plastic frame. I sealed the window in place to stop its rattling. You can stop pots and pans and dishes etc. from rattling with that rubberized waffle stuff that comes on a roll. There are large RV rattle wards in mental institutions. Read the thread above where the guy tried to fly his motorhome with the awning up. Have a signal flag on the steering wheel to remind you to lower the TV antenna and disconnect the RV park TV cable. BTW, you may have to shut off power to the TV antenna to get Cable TV signal into your TV. Push button is probably in front TV cabinet. We have a 2004 Tioga 26Q, your rig may be much like ours.

[j-d]

Great news on your run to FL. Glad it went well. Where are you now?

Previous owners used stick-on foam insulation tape to try and control door rattling. I think it's actually the screen door banging around in the space between outside door and frame. That tape fell apart, leaving me with shredded foam and sticky residue on the door and frame. I'm thinking of using the little adhesive backed "stops" that places like Home Depot sell as kitchen door and drawer bumpers. They're about the size of a shirt button and come on a sheet. You peel them off one at a time exposing the adhesive.

[DrewE]

Uncle Dan wrote:
I thought of a few of the suggestions, but many never crossed my mind. I thank all of you for heading me in the right direction. We did take it to FL and it ran well.. The noise of the motorhome door drove me batty. Thanks to all of you.

If you can't adjust the latch to keep the door from rattling (which there's a very good chance could be done), try strategically putting in some self-adhesive felt bumper pads. I've added some on my bathroom and shower stall doors and a couple of other places and they've eliminated a good bit of rattling.

[Uncle_Dan]

I thought of a few of the suggestions, but many never crossed my mind. I thank all of you for heading me in the right direction. We did take it to FL and it ran well.. The noise of the motorhome door drove me batty. Thanks to all of you.

[Bordercollie]

Just make sure that everything works properly. If not done recently, have brake fluid flushed and have brake calipers checked for any sticking/dragging. Check fridge cooling unit for any yellow/green stains or ammonia smell and make sure it cools properly on 110vac and propane. Check that RV generator starts and runs properly with roof AC and microwave on. Know procedure to get RV generator power into the RV( plug shore power plug into generator if required)test roof and dash AC. Wait ten minutes to restart roof AC after shutting it down. Get familiar with location of 120vac circuit breakers and fuses for 12vdc systems. Make sure that you have good sewer hose and fresh water hookup hose, and fresh water tank filler. Sanitize your fresh water tank and plumbing with bleach water ( 1 cup bleach to 1 gallon water) , drain, and refill. Make sure low point drain valves are closed tightly or fresh water pump will keep running after refilling fresh water tank. Practice setting up and taking down awning and check it's condition. Make sure it is securely stowed. There are many helpful You Tube RV "how to" videos.

[cgmartine]

I recently replaced just about every single latch in drawers and cabinets to eliminate all rattles and noises and to prevent them from suddenly opening. Each latch cost me about two dollars apiece. I also went around and checked the biggest noise maker, the side door and screen, and placed rubber pieces in likely areas where contact was made, eliminating most of the noise. There is nothing more annoying than hearing noises while driving, but some just cannot be eliminated.

[OFDPOS]

PLUS : Have the rad flushed and new coolant put in ,hoses checked .
Fuel filter along with fuel filter for Generator.
Wiper-blades and windshield washer fluid even tho summer coming on may run into some weather.
Check all lights , check headlight adjustment now instead of finding out on the road at night and they are way out of adjustment !
Like Busguy22 commented do an trial run overnighter at least in your driveway to make sure everything works.
Get a screwdriver and open every cabinet , drawer etc and check every screw from top to bottom , pull the drawers out and check the runners/brace mounting and tighten up if needed.
With the drawers pulled out look inside , on both used MH's I bought there were loose things IE: screws ,nuts, bolts, other things from previous owner that fell down behind and rolled around making noises.

[j-d]

Our 2002 E450 had stuck rear brake calipers before we bought it in 2008 with just over 30,000 miles. Not long after, say 35,000 miles a front caliper stuck and I replaced both. Past fall, at about 40,000 miles, a rear caliper stuck and I replaced both. Past spring, I changed out the front axle mostly to get newer bigger brakes, so I can't say how long the front calipers I'd replaced would have lasted.

I think the frequency that an RV is used has much more to do with things like brakes (and tires!) than age or mileage. We try to take ours on a local camping trip, around 100 miles round trip, monthly or so. Just running the engine a few minutes doesn't get it.

[Harvard]

I would make sure the steering does not feel to be loose at highway speeds. This looseness manifests itself as a dead zone between left and right where nothing happens. This is a common E series symptom of an alignment issue of not having enough +caster. These units appear to come off the assembly line with +3 to +4 degrees of caster which is OK for city driving. On the highway you want them to have +5 to +6 degrees of caster.
Here is a link to my experience with a 2004 E450 circa 2010/2011

[busguy22]

Trackrig wrote:
I would change the engine and generator oil and air filters, the rear end oil, the transmission oil, and have the front wheel bearings checked. I'd have the brakes looked at and maybe the brake fluid changed. If there's a drinking water filter, change it and sanitize the drinking water tank. Should probably do the engine belts also.

It may not be hot out yet, but it will get there so make sure the dash and roof air working and putting out cold air.

Check the water level in the batteries even if they are new.

If you have leveling jacks, make sure they work well and if you don't, get some leveling boards.

Does the awning work - no rips or holes.

Bill

What he said . . . 36,000 miles is a little early to be changing diff and trani fluid but being 11 years old it's probably a prudent or wise move . . .

If it has new rubber (as in recently done) I would make sure you have a torque wrench and check your lug nuts a few times along the way (especially over the course of a 5000 mile trip).

Have you used it yet ? If not maybe a quick weekend trip close by to make sure everything works (i.e.. ensure fridge/water heater/furnace etc works on both electric AND Propane) would make a lot of sense before heading out on a big trip . . .

[Trackrig]

I would change the engine and generator oil and air filters, the rear end oil, the transmission oil, and have the front wheel bearings checked. I'd have the brakes looked at and maybe the brake fluid changed. If there's a drinking water filter, change it and sanitize the drinking water tank. Should probably do the engine belts also.

It may not be hot out yet, but it will get there so make sure the dash and roof air working and putting out cold air.

Check the water level in the batteries even if they are new.

If you have leveling jacks, make sure they work well and if you don't, get some leveling boards.

Does the awning work - no rips or holes.

Bill