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Groover's avatar
Groover
Explorer II
Oct 21, 2017

2013 Trimark door handle

Last weekend I went get a few items out of my RV but when I pulled the door handle I felt something snap then nothing happened, as in the door did not open. To make a long story short I called Trimark (a division of Dexter) and asked for guidance on how to get into my RV without damaging the door. After trying several things we decided that the handle had an internal failure and the only solution was to take a drill to the handle and commence destroying it to the point that I could get at the plunger directly to pull it back and release the door. The door has to be released to get at some of the screws that hold the handle in. This was surprisingly easy to do since the handle is made of aluminum and drilled easily inspite of its mass and heft. I ordered a new door handle which came in yesterday and I installed it so I am back in business. The new handle is quite different inside and appears to be much more durable but did require some minor modifications to install (I had to grind off some unused tabs on the deadbolt mechanism). I am just thankful that this happened at home where I had lots of tools available and I was not in a hurry.

Anyway, my coach was built in early 2013 and if you remove the inside plate of the door handle, which is easy to do, you could see a three legged white plastic piece near the bottom which transfer the motion from the handles to the plunger. One leg had broken off of that plastic piece, disconnecting the handles from the plunger. If I had know a week ago what I know now I would have replaced that handle assembly with a new one before it broke. You may wish to do the same. The $100 and 15 minutes to install a new handle at home was trivial compared to the aggrevation that would have been incurred had I been on a trip.

Some indications that you may have the style of handle that gave me trouble are that the lock for the outside pull paddle is built into the paddle and moves with it. When you pull the outside paddle out you can see the tip of a self drilling screw just sticking out near the center left to right and near the bottom on the part still in the door. This screw provides the pivot point for the plastic piece that broke. I have no idea how long this design was in production.

My thanks go out to Denny at Dexter that stayed on the phone with me well into his personal time to guide me while I hacked on this thing. He did offer to help me with getting a new handle but I already had one on order.
  • Trimark has been making this door handle for years and almost everyone that has one has experienced the same frustrating problem. Most of us NEVER lock the bottom portion of the lock and only rely on the upper dead bolt when locking our door.
  • rgatijnet1 wrote:
    Trimark has been making this door handle for years and almost everyone that has one has experienced the same frustrating problem. Most of us NEVER lock the bottom portion of the lock and only rely on the upper dead bolt when locking our door.


    The door wasn't locked at all. The plunger that always goes in would not pull back because it was no longer connected to the handles, inside or out. Short of removing the spring loaded plunger and using a key to secure the door deadbolt every time I step out there was no way to avoid this.
  • Groover wrote:
    rgatijnet1 wrote:
    Trimark has been making this door handle for years and almost everyone that has one has experienced the same frustrating problem. Most of us NEVER lock the bottom portion of the lock and only rely on the upper dead bolt when locking our door.


    The door wasn't locked at all. The plunger that always goes in would not pull back because it was no longer connected to the handles, inside or out.


    Then I guess they have gotten worse, not better, after years of producing a failed product.
  • rgatijnet1 wrote:
    Groover wrote:
    rgatijnet1 wrote:
    Trimark has been making this door handle for years and almost everyone that has one has experienced the same frustrating problem. Most of us NEVER lock the bottom portion of the lock and only rely on the upper dead bolt when locking our door.


    The door wasn't locked at all. The plunger that always goes in would not pull back because it was no longer connected to the handles, inside or out.


    Then I guess they have gotten worse, not better, after years of producing a failed product.


    As I said, the new one looks to me to be much better. I hope so anyway.
  • Any chance you took a picture of the new Trimark, Groover?
  • wa8yxm's avatar
    wa8yxm
    Explorer III
    I have managed, on a few occasions to depress the snap bolt that snapped (Well named part) the last time I had a metal smith carve me one out of STEEL instead of the El-cheapo **** Tri-Mark used.. I don't think this one will break

    I did the same for basement latches by the way.
  • For all pics the one on top(installed in the door) is the new one.

    In the bottom image of this one not the tip of the self drilling screw sticking out of the white plastic just right of my thumb



    Note the three legged plastic piece in the old unit. That is what broke.
  • Lots of us have replaced the Trimark locks. No big problem if you are inside and can get to the screws, if not, yes, you hve a problem. That is why most of us leave one window unlocked, not always the same one, and there are some of us that have actually crawled through to the inside. And yes, the new replacements are a lot better. Only problem is that the lock cannot be removed if the door is closed, due to the locking pins into the latch plate. There is a way to get past that problem, but too much to detail here unless someone needs to know. Been there, done that twice!
  • Thanks for the pics! Those are great.

    Lucky for me my Trimark is nothing like that one. Made in '02, it's bigger and doesn't have any plastic inside. Looks like this:



    What I do to prevent being locked in/outside my Journey is to leave the little window beside the door unlocked so it can be pried open if necessary. Than I can reach in and unlatch using the main door handle. And I also do this...because there's a little spring that breaks or wears out and can lock you in or outside so I just Zip tie it so it can't drop down and lock.



    Looks like your newer style would be an even worse design then our older styles. Hope the newer/newer style you got as a replacement is even better.