Forum Discussion

neruda6's avatar
neruda6
Explorer
Jul 19, 2015

460 Ford Chassis - new carburetor needed

For starters, we are new to owning an RV, as of yesterday.

My girlfriend and I just purchased a 1978 Ford Travel Craft 21-ft RV. It has a 460 Ford Chassis engine. Cosmetically, inside and out, the condition is remarkable considering its 37 year old age.



We bought it yesterday and drove it home, a mere two hour drive, and it did not make it home without breaking down. On the highway, it ran well at around 60 mph, which is what I kept the speed at. Then we got back to the city we live in, hit a few red lights and it died as I just managed to coast through an intersection. I tried to pump the gas then turn the ignition several times to no avail. Finally, I tried turning the key in the ignition and holding it while I pumped the gas a few times, and it luckily started. We had just spend 4 or 5 hours deep-cleaning the interior for our planned move into it. We hope the fix won't be exorbitant. We contacted the seller, and he had said he knew of know engine issues and offered no help.



Today, we called auto shops all around town to see who would work on an old motor/old RV. Finally, we found a shop. We drove it there without issue. I assumed the fuel pump was the issue. The power-steering also is squealing something fierce, and the front driver side headlight is out along with the passenger side front turn signal. I swear we inspected and tried the RV out before buying...but it's old, and on a very limited budget, you simply cannot expect perfection.



At the auto shop, the mechanics told us the power-steering could likely be resolved by "tensioning the belt", and that it was the fuel pump that caused the RV to stall and die last night, but rather, it was the carburetor. The smell of gasoline was strong the whole drive home last night, but I just assumed those fumes were to be expected with a car that was years older than I. The mechanic showed us that fuel was in fact leaking from the fuel line/carburetor, and that we would need a new carburetor from "an old fart who had worked through the 60s and 70s on autos".



We stopped at several shops after and finally found a lead on a place that would supposedly fix the carburetor for us. It was closed, as it is Saturday, so we left the RV in the large lot and placed our keys in the drop box with a note detailing the situation. Our fingers are crossed and we are praying that we didn't just get swindled into something we can't afford. We asked the seller at lengths, including before viewing the RV in person if the engine had any issues, and he assured us it did not. We simply wanted an RV that ran fine and didn't leak any water. We plan to live in it for up to a year to save a little rent money, and we were hoping to drive it down south to find jobs there.



I know this post is long, and if you read up to here and could help us, I'd gladly buy you some frosty beverages, and help with all the work. We're not sure if the shop we left at will actually fix it, but we're needing to move into it and out of our apartment in less than a week, and we need this bad boy to run.



If any one knows the ins and outs of a 460 Ford Chassis V-8 engine, and could offer advice to a young couple without great economic means, we'd be more than appreciative. Or if anyone knows how to fix carburetors on old Ford engines and lives in Wisconsin, we'd pay you what's fair to fix this for us.



Lastly, we're now worried that even if we sink the money into fixing the carburetor (how much?), we'll never get the RV from WI to NC in a month or so. Thanks in advance for anyone with advice.
  • My Dad had an 77 Trek Class C with a 460. I rebuilt the Motorcraft Carburetor, it was NOT a Holley carburetor.The Motorcraft 4 barrel does not have a diaphragm power valve like a Holley, it uses metering rods. However, finding someone today that can properly rebuild ANY carburetor is a rare find. As mentioned, remanufacured replacement is probably your best option. If not a Motorcraft, then an Edlebock or Holley. NAPA has reman Edlebrock carburetors for around $300.
    Good luck.
  • Thanks for all the replies. I will post on this thread after the mechanic takes a look at the engine on Monday and I know more.

    Chris, it sounds like from what you said rebuilding can be quite costly and not necessarily last long at all. So it sounds like replacement altogether would be a better way to spend our money? I will definitely talk to the shop about the Edelbrock carb.
  • I recently got a new Jegs parts catalog and they have the manifolds and carbs at around $1000 for the parts. Now ya need to get installed and still have a carbed engine. If not in kalif they also sell fuel injection conversions, a little more expensive but probably better than a car redo. Yes you will still need to do the install, costs for the components is about $600-1000 more.

    When younger I went with edelbrock and a holly 600 on a 351, not much of an improvement ended up running the original 2bbl carb on the manifold. If ya can find a good indy shop (more than likely a performance shop) have them check the ditributor or for output and more than likely you will need a complete tuneup for this old girl, wires plugs dist cap etc. Also have them check the exhaust manifolds for cracks bad donuts.

    The age of the unit is the biggest thing against ya, and you seem to have found that out mechanically speaking. Now to check out the coach and its systems. Pretty sure you do not have a gen to worry about, but the refrig, the AC, heating etc. Make sure the water pump still works and the tank does not leak. Dont ask how I know about them:)
  • j-d's avatar
    j-d
    Explorer II
    Chris is an RV tech and there's no substitute for experience. I may need a boat engine and I'm considering Edelbrock over the optional Holley. I installed an EB back when it was called "Carter AFB" an it ran very well on a big block Chevy.
    It was 15 years ago but the kit was about $35 and then I spent that much again on that check valve kit and a special power valve. Not sure the special valve was any help over the one in the kit. A friend with experience did the re-build at zero dollars.
    OP doesn't say where he lives, so we don't know if there are emissions inspections and if the rules there affect the choice of fuel system.
    Remember this:
    1. There's a knack to carb work
    2. Motorcraft and Holley parts do not all interchange but some do. See 1. above
    3. Henry himself personally stamped "7" in the 460 and that's the mileage it'll get.
  • If it were mine, I would toss the Holley and put on an Edelbrock performer. I had the Motorcraft/Holley in my 87 rebuilt to the tune of $500 (the kit for that carb is expensive), and the first backfire blew the power valve- again. threw on the Edelbrock- nearly a bolt on application- and it was still on it when I sold it, no more problems.

    PS- I went with a 600 cfm model- even though it's a big motor, it doesn't rev very high, and 600 is plenty.
  • Tvov's avatar
    Tvov
    Explorer II
    j-d gave good advice. I have a 1987 F350 (in my sig picture) that has the 460 with the 4 barrel carb. The engine was running rough and no one could figure out what was wrong. I finally found somewhere on the internet people talking about the "power valve". It can rupture, but also some say the rubber parts can simply harden over time. Fortunately I had a friend who knew exactly how to rebuild the carb - he did that, and the truck ran (still does) almost like new.

    I recommend greatly to get the carb rebuilt by someone who knows about Holley carbs and the power valve before you do anything else to the engine.

    My F350 cannot pass a gas station, but when pulling / hauling it seems to basically ignore whatever load it has, no matter how much weight. Big, strong engine.

    P.S. It is kinda weird today how so many repair garages have mechanics who seriously have never seen a carb. Even my local Ford dealer has to call in a mechanic if a carb vehicle shows up.
  • j-d's avatar
    j-d
    Explorer II
    Your carb is likely re-build able. Your coach is a little older (we had an '83) but carb is probably a Motorcraft, actually made by Holley but with some differences. Holley aftermarket carb listings include "not for RV use" but I'm not sure exactly why.

    A re-build kit should be available based on info from a tag that should be on the carb. What I'm about to add next is a Big Deal:

    If these engined bckfire, the Power Valve in the carb is likely to rupture. Then it dumps gas out hte bottom of the carb all the time, not just when it needs to. There's a kit available at speed shops that 1. Plugs the original vent hole and 2. Replaces a screw with one that has a little spring loaded check valve in it.

    If you can find a fuel system specialty shop, they'll tell you they include this in their re-build process.

    Pumping the gas won't help if the power valve is the problem since it's already flooding. I think you need to edit the OP to add "not" about the fuel pump, based on all else you've said. But IF your year is one where Ford used a mechanical fuel pump, it's mounted on the front of the engine a foot or so from the carb. Fuel pumps leak fuel when they fail and you'd smell it from there also. Should be a label in the driver side door jamb. Build date will tell you the model year of your chassis. RV by RV Model Year (and probably the registration info) may be one Year and the Chassis a Year earlier. This can fox you when you go to buy parts.
  • You will find that many parts of the fuel system of a vehicle of this age sre not compatible with gasoline containing ethanol. Gaskets, rubber parts,diaphrams.lines ,etc.

    Carb. may be fixes with a kit using ethanol compatible parts,same with lines ,etc.

    another possibility is convert to fuel injection.As you said find an old fart mechanic.

    It will be said to check date code on tires. Good luck with your trip Dave