Anyone using an airdog FRRP on their cummins ISB?

Path1, that is some excellent information, thanks very much for writing that up. I did a bunch of research on the 5.9 cummins before I purchased the RV. I knew what I was getting myself into. No, it's not a 330 CAT, but it's been a great engine so far.

I do have a 53 block, and I have checked for cracks where they would normally appear. No cracks anywhere visible, and it does not use any coolant or run hot.

The VP44 injection pump replacement scares the hell out of me. Not because of the work to put it in, but because of the cost if it does decide to fail.

I did some google'ing lastnight and found that the stock lift pump is a weak link. Sounds like they used to be mechanical cam driven until '98 or so. Then, they switched to electric. Not sure which one I have yet, haven't even popped the hood to see.

I was looking into either a FASS or Airdog filter/pump setup. I know from reading about them and talking to people who have them(family members) that they are bullet proof. Looks like the 100-150 GPH style frame rail mounted pumps are between $500-700, depending on where you buy from. The Raptor FRRP (direct replacement) is about $300.

I don't just want to start replacing parts, I want to make sure a part is either on it's way out or completely failed before I throw money at it. I have researched the killer dowel pin as well. I don't know when they stopped having that problem from the factory.

glamisorbust wrote:
Is your FASS lift pump a direct replacement, or one that is completely separate and mounted on the frame rail somewhere?

Answers are from memory from 2006?

Mounted on frame rail, Closer to tank the better I was told, as those type pumps do a better job pushing fuel than sucking.



Did you have someone do the work or do it yourself?

Had it done. This happened before retirement, time was not on my side. Had it done at a shop that is into smaller diesels.

I'm a do it yourself guy, so I need to figure out what parts to buy.
The LED light sounds like a fantastic idea. I want to install one too.

What model FASS do you have?

I'm not sure but I think its around the model that's 95 gallons


I have no idea if the stock lift pump is still on there. But with 130k on the clock, I seriously doubt it.

Mine failed at home, no hint it was failing, just wouldn't start. I had to have vehicle for work, couldn't mess around with me taking forever to get project done. Had it towed to Dodge dealer and they wanted to just replace lift pump with the dodge in tank pump, which is a tiny bit bigger than an aquarium pump. I thought that was a joke. At work with we had a guy that was real heavy into http://www.nwbombers.com/ and he got me educated about them. Actually he got me into these 5.9's to begin with. He knew all the work arounds and their weak points. We worked at a place that used 5.9's in their yard goats They used to get beat up and just kept going, moving 50 and 60 thousand trailers 24/7. The heaters are so tiny in those things, we had many that we wouldn't shut off the entire winter. He showed me http://www.genosgarage.com/ (only handy to you for engine type stuff)

and

http://www.turbodieselregister.com/

After reading couple articles I know the Dodge fix wasn't what I wanted. And went with the FASS pump.

Being your proactive. Have you looked at other known problems?

Killer dowel pin (KDP) and engine blocks in 53 series? I did do my own killer dowel pin fix (well almost, the guy at work pointed to places I need to turn some bolts) and we actually used a pull tab from a beer can to plug up the thing.

I think the free side of TDR has some info about pump and killer dowel pin. And I've been a member for many years just because it's worth it me to have access to that info from the road, (if you have cell service at the time)

Also we were also lucky enough to meet a retired Cummins engineer at a campground believe it or not. His stories were sure good and made a lot of sense. After talking with him and hearing all his stories I now changed my maintenance to 80 percent of what the schedule calls for. Example: if schedule says to service something every 10,000 miles it gets serviced at 8,000 miles (80%)

Anyways (didn't mean to be so long) Since Oct last year we have put on 8,000 miles towing 9,000 pound trailer and no problems with engine or trans. I Did have a brake problem but that was my fault for being in a hurry before we headed south. I changed the brake pads just before the trip and got into a hurry and I messed up the right rear brake pad. Anyways made it over every pass on I-5 with zero problems. Then got into LA stop and go traffic and wive says "Honey we must of gotten some bad fuel or something, the exhaust is blowing out blue smoke". Remember right rear, where exhaust is also located on my pick up. My response..."OH gee honey, must be that CA fuel people talk about":). Well it got to the point of seeing all the blue smoke in the mirror I was afraid of what might happen. So I pulled off the fwy and we found ourselves in a war zone type neighborhood, I let it cool down some but after looking around the neighborhood we decided we have get to out of this place quick and tossed some water on it to cool it down faster. I wanted out of that "sunny southern calif neighborhood" faster. We made it to my kids trailer shop and put on another new set of brake pads. Of course my kid laughing at me the entire time for screwing up in the first place.

Anyways...beyond known problems mentioned above and being that you have a MH I would put a cotton sock on your slobber tube with a zip tie just to keep your radiator cleaner and change fluids and filters at 80% of their live span. I say slobber tube because certainly by now somebody has taken off the bottle thing that Cummins put and put a drain hose. Excuse me, the hose is not a drain hose it is to "Vent to the atmosphere" per Cummins. Just make sure hose is long enough so the oil doesn't on anything. And make sure tiny bolts that hold fuel lines are at torque spec's. The normal vibration of fuel lines wears a hole in them if they come loose just a little. I put medium strength lock tight on them and a little black line from felt tip marker at top of bolt so I can visually make sure they are not wiggling themselves loose. And make sure exhaust bolts are at torque spec. You'll see black smoke stains at exhaust ports if they are leaking a little.

OH and I carry a spare serpentine belt. There are two different sizes available. One with A/C and one without A/C. My "spare" belt is for the "without" A/C size. If your a/c compressor ever goes out they usually freeze up and your a/c pulley will chew up your belt and then you'll be stuck. Spare belt bypasses a/c pulley and your up and running after changing belt.

OK didn't mean to be so long. Those 5.9's are some of the best made IMO. I've seen many that have 3 or 4 K on them. Hope you got a good one. Mine however does enjoy eating water pumps, not sure why. When it starts leaking I just swap it out when doing a oil change.

I won't even bring up some Dodge problems, just sticking mostly with 5.9 problems.

OK got to go. Hope info was useful to you.

(adding on again)...I think you can look up every TSB on 5.9's. Might have to wade thru chassis stuff to get to running gear but might be worth your time. My low fuel psi led light stares right at me. Mounted in dash and is only red light I have. Very visible indicator right next to exhaust switch. And of course I never want to see it light up. It does light up when I start it sometimes but only maybe 2 seconds, normal and a good test to make sure light is working correctly. Something like this http://www.genosgarage.com/BD-LED-LOW-FUEL-PRESSURE-INDICATOR-985-07/productinfo/BD-1081130/#.VZ2B2k1RFjo

Is your FASS lift pump a direct replacement, or one that is completely separate and mounted on the frame rail somewhere? Did you have someone do the work or do it yourself?

I'm a do it yourself guy, so I need to figure out what parts to buy. The LED light sounds like a fantastic idea. I want to install one too. What model FASS do you have? I have no idea if the stock lift pump is still on there. But with 130k on the clock, I seriously doubt it.

I'm surprised you still have a stock lift pump. Many people think they have a stock lift pump but actually have the in tank replacement.

Yep, first upgrade I did on my 5.9. Not because I was thinking ahead like you, mine just quit period. I went with FASS system, but I couldn't tell you which is better FASS or FRRP. I've had zero problems since 2006. I just change filters when I'm supposed to.

I didn't put in a fuel pressure gauge but installed a little LED that lights up when pressure is less than 7 psi. The fuel system gets to expensive not to have something to let you know if not enough fuel is being delivered. They don't give away those VP44's.

Whatever you get save the paper work at home and make a copy of filter cross overs. My FASS has a listing of filters and micron levels that cross reference to fleet guard and other filter manufactures. When I buy filters (at Cummins) those numbers become important because if Cummins doesn't have them on the shelf they want to special order them and special ordering filters is only buy the case at my local dealer. I usually buy 2 at a time. That is because their filters used to be packaged loose in a box. But last couple years their filters have been packaged with a plastic bag inside the box. So no more worries about moisture problems getting to the filter before I use it. And changing filters is real easy.

Don't remember the price and I had some gauges put in at same time. Pyro, trans and boost. Pyro is one of the most handiest. I always cool down my turbo using the pyro before shutting it off. Trans has only been above 200 degrees 3 times.