ATWOOD Water heater

Getting answers to relevant questions is like pulling teeth.........

I'm done

enblethen wrote:
If the water heater plugs into an outlet, and there is no power to the outlet, then the problem should not be in the water heater. Test outlet with a known good appliance such as a drill motor.
Some water heaters have a switch in the exterior and inside to operate water heater control. The one out side is for protection of workers and is shut off during winterizing.
I believe your rig is new enough to have 12 volt control for 120 volt operation. drawing 12 page 7. Manual

Thanks for the manual!

Old-Biscuit wrote:

enblethen wrote:
If the water heater plugs into an outlet, and there is no power to the outlet, then the problem should not be in the water heater. Test outlet with a known good appliance such as a drill motor.
Some water heaters have a switch in the exterior and inside to operate water heater control. The one out side is for protection of workers and is shut off during winterizing.
I believe your rig is new enough to have 12 volt control for 120 volt operation. drawing 12 page 7. Manual

IF OPs water heater is an Atwood and it is a 2003 yr then it should have 120V AC directly to element on back of WH Tank with separate t-stats located with element.




Atwood changed/swapped to 12V DC control for the 2004 models


OP stated water heater works when plugged into a different 120V AC outlet using an extension cord.
SO issue is with power to that outlet




OP stated this AM
I found that one of the wires in the control box doesn't get 12 Volt
It could be a ground problem. There is also a faulty toggle switch.

PLEASE explain.
What control box....where is it located
What toggle switch are you referring to.

AND would you PLEASE post MODEL NUMBER (GC10A-XX etc)

IS it like this one.........4 pin connector on module in outside compartment


Or like this one..........4 pin & 6 pin connectors

Model # is Atwood GC10A-3E, the switch is on the mian panel board in the RV corridor

I asked how OP tested early in posting. He never responded how he tested the outlet or the circuit breaker. Did not answer if he has energy management system.
His problem is not in water heater it is in the 120 volt circuitry getting to the water heater.

enblethen wrote:
If the water heater plugs into an outlet, and there is no power to the outlet, then the problem should not be in the water heater. Test outlet with a known good appliance such as a drill motor.
Some water heaters have a switch in the exterior and inside to operate water heater control. The one out side is for protection of workers and is shut off during winterizing.
I believe your rig is new enough to have 12 volt control for 120 volt operation. drawing 12 page 7. Manual

IF OPs water heater is an Atwood and it is a 2003 yr then it should have 120V AC directly to element on back of WH Tank with separate t-stats located with element.




Atwood changed/swapped to 12V DC control for the 2004 models


OP stated water heater works when plugged into a different 120V AC outlet using an extension cord.
SO issue is with power to that outlet




OP stated this AM
I found that one of the wires in the control box doesn't get 12 Volt
It could be a ground problem. There is also a faulty toggle switch.

PLEASE explain.
What control box....where is it located
What toggle switch are you referring to.

AND would you PLEASE post MODEL NUMBER (GC10A-XX etc)

IS it like this one.........4 pin connector on module in outside compartment


Or like this one..........4 pin & 6 pin connectors

yves1956 wrote:
My Rv is an Holiday Rambler 2003 Admiral SE

I have a 10 gallons Atwood water heater gas and electric located underneath the sink in the kitchen. The water heater is plugged on a 110 ac outlet. There is no current to the outlet when I put the switch on on the main pannel. The breaker and the fuse are ok (in the bedroom) I can not find the problem somebody got an answer.

The gas is working fine for the water heater.

Is there voltage present on the load side of the breaker and all the breakers in the panel, in fact?

If the water heater plugs into an outlet, and there is no power to the outlet, then the problem should not be in the water heater. Test outlet with a known good appliance such as a drill motor.
Some water heaters have a switch in the exterior and inside to operate water heater control. The one out side is for protection of workers and is shut off during winterizing.
I believe your rig is new enough to have 12 volt control for 120 volt operation. drawing 12 page 7. Manual

Old-Biscuit wrote:

enblethen wrote:
The receptacle should be hot all the time from the 120 volt AC power distribution panel.
Some rigs have this receptacle ran through a GFCI receptacle. Locate your GFCI receptacles and check to see if one is tripped.
Have you reset your circuit breakers? Turn off all circuit breakers applying light pressure toward off. Then turn on main circuit breaker if equipped, and then each of the branch breakers one at a time.
Get one of the small normally yellow circuit analyzers that plug into the receptacles to identify what is issue.

X2^^^^^^^^

Your vintage uses 120V AC directly to water heater element.
So if no 120V at outlet circuit breaker is tripped OR GFCI is tripped that feeds that outlet.

IF CB/GFCI tripped could be because WH electric element has shorted.

I found that one of the wires in the control box doesn't get 12 Volt
It could be a ground problem. There is also a faulty toggle switch.
I will change the switch and checked again.

Do you have an energy management system?
What size is shore power 30 or 50 amp?
Are you using an adapter?

My water heater has a main switch that controls the outlet that it is plugged into. That switch is located right beside the bypass valve for the water heater. My heater is located in the vanity cabinet right underneath the bathroom sink. You may have something similar.