Mar-28-2020 12:54 PM
Mar-30-2020 07:06 PM
pianotuna wrote:
Log,
Your needs are met by your system. Mine are different, so of course, my recommendation to others is different than yours.
My intent was not to upset you. I'm sorry if our verbal exchange did so.
Mar-30-2020 04:44 PM
Mar-30-2020 04:42 PM
Mar-30-2020 04:12 PM
LOG wrote:wolfe10 wrote:
OK, how about a TIME OUT.
If you want/think you need smart charging from your alternator, you will need an alternator with external regulator.
Then buy a smart regulator-- we have had one to control the sailboat's 120 amp alternator for a decade.
NEXT.
Thank you.
Now please address the need for a DC to Dc battery charger in a Class C Motorhome. The reason for this discussion.
A response from a recognized expert is more than welcomed.
This is my last post in this thread.
Mar-30-2020 04:08 PM
wolfe10 wrote:
OK, how about a TIME OUT.
If you want/think you need smart charging from your alternator, you will need an alternator with external regulator.
Then buy a smart regulator-- we have had one to control the sailboat's 120 amp alternator for a decade.
NEXT.
Mar-30-2020 04:01 PM
Mar-30-2020 03:56 PM
pianotuna wrote:LOG wrote:
You have really gone beyond the need for a DC to DC battery charger.
Log,
Most of the charging is done via solar.
When I am on shore power, I use a Magnum inverter charger with temperature compensation. The remote for the Magnum allows me to adjust charging voltages to meet my needs.
Any charging I get while traveling is incidental. It would not be adequate to my needs.
If I intended to fully charge while driving, I would get a dc to DC device. They are far cheaper than an isolation device. Then I could easily meet Trojan's suggestion of 14.8 volts to fully charge one of their lead acid jars.
Mar-30-2020 03:55 PM
Mar-30-2020 03:44 PM
pianotuna wrote:
Log,
Voltage may be the least accurate method to check state of charge. I suggest verifying the charge level a few times using a temperature compensated hydrometer. You may be surprised at of "real" state of charge where the battery charger goes into float mode.
Mar-30-2020 03:41 PM
LOG wrote:
You have really gone beyond the need for a DC to DC battery charger.
Mar-30-2020 03:31 PM
pianotuna wrote:
Log,
I'm glad your system works well for your needs.
It takes a great deal of time for a battery bank to become full. At 85% state of charge, the acceptance rate is a mere 15 amps per 100 amp hours of capacity. The closer the battery bank is to full the slower the charging rate.
Sulphated batteries behave by showing they are fully charged by voltage, shortly after being connected to a charger.
Most "smart" chargers fail to drive a battery 100% state of charge. Getting to truly 100% requires "dancing on the needles", especially if voltage is the only parameter being used.
Mar-30-2020 03:25 PM
pianotuna wrote:
Log,
Voltage may be the least accurate method to check state of charge. I suggest verifying the charge level a few times using a temperature compensated hydrometer. You may be surprised at of "real" state of charge where the battery charger goes into float mode.
Mar-30-2020 03:22 PM
Mar-30-2020 03:16 PM
pianotuna wrote:
Log,
Voltage may be the least accurate method to check state of charge. I suggest verifying the charge level a few times using a temperature compensated hydrometer. You may be surprised at of "real" state of charge where the battery charger goes into float mode.
Mar-30-2020 03:08 PM
pianotuna wrote:
Log,
Voltage may be the least accurate method to check state of charge. I suggest verifying the charge level a few times using a temperature compensated hydrometer. You may be surprised at of "real" state of charge where the battery charger goes into float mode.