Clearcoat repair

Tape it, prep it with 400 to 600 grit, then hit it with four coats of "SprayMax2K" It is a 2 part clear coat that comes in a can. Once the can has been punctured and mixed you have about 48 hours to use it. About 22 bucks a can. Do not sand afterward unless there are flaws. It is a band aid solution but has worked for us over the years. I always seem to have a new spot to do every year.

Your clear coat is blistering and is caused by too thin of a coat of clear. Lack of wax also speeds up the process. Unless you're a good painter, or don't care how well it turns out, take it to a paint shop. I created a tape line on mine, just above the clearance markers and resprayed with a matching color. It was good for another couple of years and started in other spots. It's like a cancer and will grow. If you let it go too long, it will create deep cracks that require sanding to the gelcoat and then use of a special primer.

I had mine done three months ago. It cost $3000.00 to paint all four sides (roofline). Some areas are cheaper, some are higher.

I tried to use the can to spray a large area of my rv and it ended up with a haze. I took it to where I bought it and they said the spray can will cause it every time. Just had them repair it.

resqguy wrote:

Contact the manufacturer of the coach and see what they used for their full body paint.

The coach is a Winnebago Vectra. It was a used 2004 basically sold as is. I have other work that I need to have professionals do. I was wanting to handle this task myself.

I would GUESS that they used a polyurethane paint system, which would have had UV protection in the mix, at the factory.
The problem with painting large vehicles is to apply the clearcoat at the right time after the base coat. Wait too long while you are painting another area and the clear coat just does not adhere properly. Also you are dealing with a clear finish and it is difficult to judge how thick of a coat you have applied.
Automobile manufacturers have solved 99% of the problems by using robots for most all factory paint jobs. RV's are still painted manually and the skill level of those painters is not consistent.
You can get urethane clearcoat paint in the rattlecan and you can also buy a quart or so at a paint supply store and rent a spray rig. You can also buy the paint and find some body shop painter that would like to earn a few bucks, just to apply the paint, leaving you to do the prep work.

Clear coat release is caused by poor preparation, improper application, material mismatch or any combination of the afore mentioned. Auto manufactures have used clear coat for over 30 years with great success. Very few failures on older vehicles. The failures are cost driven.

Richard

Contact the manufacturer of the coach and see what they used for their full body paint.

The coach is a Winnebago Vectra. It was a used 2004 basically sold as is. I have other work that I need to have professionals do. I was wanting to handle this task myself.

The deterioration of the clearcoat on the end caps and awning rails is not unusual. It is a result of years of sun exposure and not enough waxing. We had a similar case of clearcoat breakdown, took MH to Forest City and had CDI repair the clear coat. If there is a coach paint facility in your area they can fix the problem.

Is the coach new, or new to you? If its brand new I would be taking it back to dealer to let them deal with it under warranty. You want it noted in case you have problems down the road.

It would be better to find out what kind of paint you have and then match the clearcoat with what you have. You can buy clearcoat in enamel, lacquer, polyurethane, etc. Contact the manufacturer of the coach and see what they used for their full body paint.
It is doubtful that a branch caused the problem. More likely it was just too thin of a coat of clear or it was applied too long after the base coat was applied to the coach.