Cost of fixing fogged windows

I'm actually suprised there aren't more problems with double panes in motorhomes. They fail in our regular homes just sitting there. Bouncing down the road certainly adds to the chances the seal will fail.

I have had single pane, and they weren't really a problem. They let more heat in, and there was a SIGNIFICANT noise difference. We use ours at the race track. And ambient noise is considerable. So I do like the double pane for those reasons.

As much trouble as I read about people having problems with their double pane windows I'm glad I don't have them.

Thanks for the follow up, and letting us know how it turned out.

Fred

I finally noticed the sticky peel off. It was kinda hard to get off. That's my excuse and I'm sticking to it.
The job turned out well. I did it in the winter, so the air trapped in there is about as dry as I can get it without using the welder argon to try to fill it. I only did the door window for my first attempt. The hardest part of the entire job is getting the old sealant off and cleaned up. If somebody else did that part, I could do these all day long. Ran out of time to do the drivers window, but that is next. Makes a real difference inside and out of the coach.

On mine, there was a blue plastic strip the I peeled to expose the sticky. Yes, it is a mother if their is no sticky. On the first window I did, I did not know the sticky was covered by the plastic, and was having one hell of time trying to get everything in the right position, and the second pane on top, and getting the spacer to stay in position. I was going to use some contact cement to get it to stay in position, when it melted the plastic covering the sticky on the spacer. Then, I saw the light, and from then on, it was a snap.

For those who have repaired yourself: How do you keep the spacer where you want it until you have it sealed in place? I finally got it done, but man I struggled. I assumed that the spacer would have a peel and stick adhesive, but it didn't.

Any dry gas will work, argon, nitrogen,co2, and compressed dry air. The trick would be purging all the moisture out before sealing.

Disassembled my entry door window today. Used a utility knife to cut, and then a razor blade scraper to clean the old spacer off. Spacer and sealer is on order now. I do have welding argon in the shop and have thought about running a needle inflater with argon running through it into the gap in the spacer at a low pressure/flow rate while sealing. I love the vibrating tool idea. I will try that on my next one, although this one was kind of easy because of its size.
The hardest part for me was getting the frame apart. The screws were sealed over with a very durable sealant, which was tough to get off to expose the screw heads.

Those are very good instructions. I have done a few of my own and the results are great. The only change I would make is how you cut the existing seal. Using a single razor blade with vice grips is very hard. I went to a 1.5" putty knife that was sharpened on one edge, and used a hammer to drive it along the seal. This too a very long time so I used a vibrating multi tool, with the knife cutter blade. this made a great difference in time and effort required. I also marked the outside of the panes with a felt tipped marker, as to the moving panes, the top, and the outside. I took pictures as I was disassembling, to I could get them back together right, the first time. I also went to using 3M windshield adhesive instead of the CRL, as it is made for auto glass that is under stress most of the time. The actual super spacer seal had a descant in it that adsorbs moisture. If you have some left over, be sure to return it to the original packaging and seal it against air entry, as it will deplete the descant. MontainAir05 give me help on getting the super seal, and some instructions on redoing the windows. If you are a DYI guy, it is very doable.

Good luck