While I've had and used a Tow Dolly for a couple years, I've always found it inconvenient, requiring me to have storage when not in use. As a result, been considering replacing this with a towing apparatus for my Class A, and called Camping World to research, and get an estimate...WHOA!At $5,400+, it was quite a bit more than I anticipated... but is it accurate? Looking for input, experience, and anything else that will help me decide if this is an option I should consider...At this price, I think I'd continue with the dolly...Your thoughts?Thanks, MIchael

We need a little more info. I towed a Chevrolet HHR, that was rated for towing 4 down, and all I had to do was install a tow bracket on the vehicle, set up the tail lights, and buy a tow bar to use. I believe my total cost was around $1200. If your vehicle is not rated for towing 4 down, there may be some additional costs for a disconnect for your driveshaft in addition to the cost for the tow bracket, lights, and tow bar.

You chose one of the most expensive places you could to buy and install the needed parts. Check amazon or other rv parts suppliers for parts and get a local body shop to install. I bought everything I needed and installed myself for less than $1K.

Are you buying everything new? I bought a used ReadyBrute that looked brand new for $250. Had Night Shift Auto go through it at a rally and they said it'd hardly been used. Bought the baseplate directly from BlueOx for a little over $300. Wiring harness was around $200. So for less than $1k I'm ready to roll. I've been using it for 11 years now and it's still working well. So, I'm into it for less than $100/yr.....Dennis

Since you’re just starting out, take a look at the Ready Brute Elite towbar and brake combination. Ready BruteIf I had not already purchased my towbar, aux braking system I would have gone with them. I did dump my portable braking system for their Ready Brake.The dealer service centers should be able to help you with a baseplate too.Also, I’ve had CW install the base plate on two different cars and they did a good job. One thing to watch for is they frequently have good deals on complete towing packages. Much less than the $5,400. If you compare prices make sure you’re comparing equal packages.

Executive wrote:Are you buying everything new? I bought a used ReadyBrute that looked brand new for $250. Had Night Shift Auto go through it at a rally and they said it'd hardly been used. Bought the baseplate directly from BlueOx for a little over $300. Wiring harness was around $200. So for less than $1k I'm ready to roll. I've been using it for 11 years now and it's still working well. So, I'm into it for less than $100/yr.....DennisYou don't mention a brake system. Did you do anything for that? What was the cost on that? I suppose you can say your $1K makes it towable, but for me I would need a braking system.

Cost to install apparatus for Flat-towing | Good Sam Community

Tax_Man
Explorer
Jul 31, 2020
I use the Demco (SMI) Stay and Play brake system. It stays in place. Flip and on/off switch when hooking up. Works great.
crawford
Explorer
Jul 30, 2020
tow bars have safety cables or chains ready brake or others have lights telling if hooked up pretty simple. If you run bald tires nothing helps stupid. Use your equipment required all will be well but still can't fix stupid.
B_O__Plenty
Explorer II
Jul 30, 2020
Big Katuna wrote:
So if I buy new, use it ten years, it gets worn out and fails, you’ll be ok?

Have you heard of anybody that’s has been sued for equipment failure?

Bald tires? Overweight?

Insurance pays for all that. Civil suits happen but they are rare.
100% correct. The sky is not falling. Pretty easy to look at a tow bar and mount to see if something is wrong with it.

B.O.
johnwalkerpa1
Explorer
Jul 30, 2020
obiwancanoli wrote:
I concluded the Readybrake not as effective simply because using the brakes on the toad would seem to me to be more effective. I have no other evidence to support my conclusion, but am happy to accede to more knowledgeable sources...

way2roll wrote:
obiwancanoli wrote:
OK, here's something else I'm researching... braking systems.

Also happened across a Readybrute with built-in braking mechanism, and concluded it's probably not as effective as what's needed, but again, am a rookie at this... which explains why I'm posting this...

Why would you conclude the ready brute elite not as effective? This is likely the most simple, effective and risk risk free set up you can have. It's a surge brake built into the bar itself and uses your own car's braking system. It's all mechanical so no wiring to fail, no air or hydraulics to fail, nothing to install/uninstall every time you hook up.

The readybrute still uses the toad's brakes. It just activates them differently. IMHO it's a better way. It's a little extra setup to run the cable thru the firewall but once you do that once, it's much simpler to use than any other braking system I've ever seen.
obiwancanoli
Explorer
Jul 30, 2020
I concluded the Readybrake not as effective simply because using the brakes on the toad would seem to me to be more effective. I have no other evidence to support my conclusion, but am happy to accede to more knowledgeable sources...

way2roll wrote:
obiwancanoli wrote:
OK, here's something else I'm researching... braking systems.

Also happened across a Readybrute with built-in braking mechanism, and concluded it's probably not as effective as what's needed, but again, am a rookie at this... which explains why I'm posting this...

Why would you conclude the ready brute elite not as effective? This is likely the most simple, effective and risk risk free set up you can have. It's a surge brake built into the bar itself and uses your own car's braking system. It's all mechanical so no wiring to fail, no air or hydraulics to fail, nothing to install/uninstall every time you hook up.
AikenRacer
Explorer
Jul 29, 2020
$3,000 if you buy new including a Brake Buddy
way2roll
Navigator II
Jul 29, 2020
obiwancanoli wrote:
OK, here's something else I'm researching... braking systems.

Also happened across a Readybrute with built-in braking mechanism, and concluded it's probably not as effective as what's needed, but again, am a rookie at this... which explains why I'm posting this...

Why would you conclude the ready brute elite not as effective? This is likely the most simple, effective and risk risk free set up you can have. It's a surge brake built into the bar itself and uses your own car's braking system. It's all mechanical so no wiring to fail, no air or hydraulics to fail, nothing to install/uninstall every time you hook up.
Bill_Satellite
Explorer II
Jul 29, 2020
The brake systems powered by the RV's air brakes are the best and most reliable. M&G is the best but they don't have equipment to fit all tow vehicles. Air Force 1 would be my 2nd choice. I have been towing with an M&G for 20 years without issue.
dodge_guy
Explorer II
Jul 28, 2020
My buddy has a wireless blue OX brake system that goes on he drivers front floor. He hasn't had any issues with it in over a year of using it. That will probably be the system I go with next!
FloridaRosebud
Explorer
Jul 28, 2020
obiwancanoli wrote:

Since my current Ford Edge (3.5, Titanium) HAS a tow package - complete with wiring harness for anything I tow with it - can I tie into this wiring, assuming I have a wiring kit that connects the RV lights/signals to those of the toad? Or is this better simply running the wiring the entire length of the toad, from its taillights to the RV connection?

My guess is no, the system probably won't work backwards unless you did some serious rewiring. It triggers off of pressing the brake pedal of the Edge, which is not in use. I'll be curious to see what others say....

Al

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