Dash A/C question

Are you stationary or moving?
It does make a difference.

The "Is it working or not" is a complex formula in fact it's a whole book of charts. You need to know indoor and outdoor humidity, Intake and outlet temp's both indoors and outdoors and then you either plug 'em into a computer and it says YEA or NAY or you go through one big book of charts.

But I look for delta 30 Delta 20 I'm told is acceptable (Delta is difference between inlet and outlet temps)

if you put it in Max Cool and you got those numbers , No it is not working correct. Where is the slider/knob at on the dash. All the way in the blue or just starting in the blue.

Take it to a garage and let a regular AC guy check it out like you would your car.

This is a large supplier to the RV industry. Also, your output will NOT be as cold as an Automobile. Doug

http://www.evanstempcon.com/tsg_guidelines.php

1.Park the vehicle and set the engine speed at 1500 RPM.
2.Set the HVAC controls to "MAX A/C", the blower at High-speed, and the temperature control dial to the coldest setting.
3.Visually verify that the A/C compressor clutch is engaged, and the compressor is operating. Verify that the heater coolant valve is closed, and the heater coil tubes are neutral or cool to the touch.
4.The suction hose fitting (at the evaporator outlet) should be cold to the touch. This fitting may sweat or even frost slightly. The liquid hose fitting (at the evaporator inlet) should be warm to the touch.
5.Chilled air should be discharged from the supply louvers in the cab. After 3-5 minutes of A/C operation, the louver air temperature should be approximately 20-30 degrees (F) colder than the warmest air entering the A/C system (fresh or recirculated air).
6.Air inlet/outlet temperature differentials are greatly affected by ambient temperature and relative humidity. In cool ambient conditions, differentials smaller than 30 degrees may be seen. Air can only be chilled to a certain level, and then the A/C compressor will cycle off to prevent evaporator freeze-up. High humidity may also result in smaller differentials; a large amount of cooling capacity is required to dehumidify air, as well as cool it.

Can you be specific on the Recall? I see no recall from Winne on Dash AC units. Recalls are safety related. Are you sure you did not have a TSB(Technical Service Bulletin) instead? What was the fault and what was the fix? Did the Dash AC work before the TSB was done? Doug

If I don’t get near 40 degrees at the discharge point with a dial thermometer stuck in the vent something is wrong. That’s with it on recirculating air, not fresh outside air. Means the air is just coming off the coil which if working well will be about that temperature.

Ver true said. Are things ok?

imgoin4it wrote:
If I don’t get near 40 degrees at the discharge point with a dial thermometer stuck in the vent something is wrong. That’s with it on recirculating air, not fresh outside air. Means the air is just coming off the coil which if working well will be about that temperature.

BS. If it is over 80 degrees outside, your Newmar will NOT get down to 40 degrees output. Your dial thermometer needs calibration or replaced. Try the same test with a good digital thermometer. Doug

I use a hose to spray water on the condensing coil out front. Then I look for the lowest reading on temperature inside with a temperature probe. It should be close to 45 if things are working properly. Then, once you remove the water hose, the temperature will GO UP to reflect the AC capacity based on the ambient temperature at that time. Using the hose always give me the "best case scenario". The "real world" AC temperature output will always be higher.