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Delamination?

bagman
Explorer
Explorer
So if one wanted to rehab a Class A M.H. that has much delamination and a roof that leaks, how can you replace all that material and stop it from happening again down the road. I say this because the original manufacturer wasn't able to build these Class A's in the 90's from keeping this from happening. I can buy a 92 Corbra Monterey for $1,200.00 and I have a friend who is very gifted repairing anything and he already has the roofing material, but how can you stop water from finding its way through the outer shell and causing all kinds of damage? Any advise will be greatly appreciated. The Monterey is on a Chevy P-30 Chassis W/454 V-8 & TH400 3 speed tranny! Bagman.
Land of Opportunity & Liberty 4 ALL!
14 REPLIES 14

dirtyharryo
Explorer
Explorer
I did a 1988 Pace Arrow passenger side several years ago, took fiberglass and windows- door off used 1/4 inch plywood and lament glue lots of it, it likes to soak in, also used gas tank sealer on side rails, it took a lot of time but it turned out ok. It did not cost over $5-600.00 dollars at the time. I used eternal bond tape on roof.

J-Rooster
Explorer
Explorer
rgatijnet1 wrote:
In my opinion, you can spend a lot of time, and money, and even after it is repaired, the 1992 Monterey may still be only worth $1200.
I believe the only way that you can properly repair delamination is to completely remove the side wall, take it apart, replace all damaged wood and insulation foam, apply a better adhesive, and then put it all back together again using compression to hold the sidewall flat while the adhesive sets up.
To me this is not s DIY project and should only be attempted in a factory type environment. Even then, the time and materials involved would NOT increase the value of the coach being repaired. Of course, there is probably interior ceiling panels that also have to be dealt with as well as rotted floors from the leaks.
Stopping a roof leak is pretty simple basic repair work. Dealing with the delamination and other damage that has already taken place is the huge problem.
I would find another project Class A without delamination issues.
I really respect and agree with Ron's post! He's done many vehicle rehabs over the years and has lots of knowledge on issue's like these!

mechtec
Explorer
Explorer
I am enjoying doing my 98 30' class a MH.My delam was extensive on pass side. I pulled the windows, dryed out the inner walls used west sys slow set epoxy poured inside the filon wall. Clamped w/1/2" panels backed by 2x2s & strapped & clamps. It set up in 24 hrs, walls are flat. Now I'm shopping for interior panels & finish. I'll prolly have 15-17G including purchase. It has 36k mi & I'll have a nice MH!

Dale_Traveling
Explorer II
Explorer II
bagman wrote:
Yeah, I'm thinking what I would spend on repairs would make a nice down payment on a new M.H.
Good choice. Sometimes you just need to walk away and let a coach head out to the RV graveyard.
2006 Hurricane 31D built on a 2006 Ford F53

bagman
Explorer
Explorer
Yeah, I'm thinking what I would spend on repairs would make a nice down payment on a new M.H.
Land of Opportunity & Liberty 4 ALL!

Teacher_s_Pet
Explorer
Explorer
theoldwizard1 wrote:
gbopp wrote:
... it will eliminate the leaks and additional damage.

The problem is HIDDEN DAMAGE that the OP is unaware of. How much of the wall has delaminated ? Is there ROT ? How about the floor ?


As stated, in the end, it is still a 25 year old coach. I live in the Rust Belt. I would start worrying about chassis issues.


Bagman the OP, is from SE MI also. Long time member of the forum..I didn't catch his screen name on the OP.
'06 Phaeton 40' QSH
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theoldwizard1
Explorer II
Explorer II
gbopp wrote:
... it will eliminate the leaks and additional damage.

The problem is HIDDEN DAMAGE that the OP is unaware of. How much of the wall has delaminated ? Is there ROT ? How about the floor ?


As stated, in the end, it is still a 25 year old coach. I live in the Rust Belt. I would start worrying about chassis issues.

Bruce_Brown
Moderator
Moderator
Hey Bagman, how have you been?


rgatijnet1 wrote:
In my opinion, you can spend a lot of time, and money, and even after it is repaired, the 1992 Monterey may still be only worth $1200.
I believe the only way that you can properly repair delamination is to completely remove the side wall, take it apart, replace all damaged wood and insulation foam, apply a better adhesive, and then put it all back together again using compression to hold the sidewall flat while the adhesive sets up.
To me this is not s DIY project and should only be attempted in a factory type environment. Even then, the time and materials involved would NOT increase the value of the coach being repaired. Of course, there is probably interior ceiling panels that also have to be dealt with as well as rotted floors from the leaks.
Stopping a roof leak is pretty simple basic repair work. Dealing with the delamination and other damage that has already taken place is the huge problem.
I would find another project Class A without delamination issues.


Agreed, on all accounts. Properly fixing a delaminated sidewall is not a DIY project. The lamination process the factories use is both compression and vacuum. If your garage has a large press and a large vacuum bag then sure. :B

The other issue is mold. I've done the Travel Trailer Rehab and as you can see, to do it right it is a complete rebuilding process.

I've also worked on and seen the damage from a leaking roof on this Winnie;







As we all know, black mold is a bad deal, unless you do a 100% rebuild chances are it will always be there.


TNGW1500SE wrote:
My 2003 Sunova 30B has de-lam on both lower sides. This winter (if I have time) I'm going to cut the bottom 2 feet of fiberglass off and remove the rotted wood. Then I'm going to spray foam insulation on it and cut that flat. After that's done, I'm going to cover the lower sides with diamond plate glued and riveted to the aluminum sidewall structure then paint to match. I'm also resealing EVERYTHING including all windows.

I think it's worth the effort. I've only got 20K miles on it and we looked at a new one. They wanted 90K for anything we'd be interested in and we'd have to upgrade the new one after purchase to get what we have now. Doing the work myself, I estimate costs at around a grand but even if I put a couple of thousand in this repair, I'll still come out way ahead. Diamond plate can be purchased on-line in 4x8 sheets.

The dealer offered 11K in trade. That was an insult. I know I could get 25K or better easily for it on Craigslist. They just wanted to steal it. I don't go back in there anymore. If they had offered a fair price we may have traded. Dealers suck!

NOTE: Above plan may change without notice. LOL


With the low miles you have that adds a large value to the book price of your MH, and unrealistic amount, but lets use it anyway.

Based on that, yours has a low retail of $21,200 and an average retail of $25,600. If you don't consider the miles it books for $16,600 and $20,000. Now add in the delamination and I'm not so sure the dealer was that far off. He has to pay his guys X amount of $$$ to fix it, and how long will it take? If I were a dealer I wouldn't take in any MH with any delamination, for the reasons listed above. The unknown damage just wouldn't be worth the risk.

Ask yourself, in it's current condition would you pay $25,000 for it?
There are 24 hours in every day - it all depends on how you choose to use them.
Bruce & Jill Brown
2008 Kountry Star Pusher 3910

TNGW1500SE
Explorer
Explorer
My 2003 Sunova 30B has de-lam on both lower sides. This winter (if I have time) I'm going to cut the bottom 2 feet of fiberglass off and remove the rotted wood. Then I'm going to spray foam insulation on it and cut that flat. After that's done, I'm going to cover the lower sides with diamond plate glued and riveted to the aluminum sidewall structure then paint to match. I'm also resealing EVERYTHING including all windows.

I think it's worth the effort. I've only got 20K miles on it and we looked at a new one. They wanted 90K for anything we'd be interested in and we'd have to upgrade the new one after purchase to get what we have now. Doing the work myself, I estimate costs at around a grand but even if I put a couple of thousand in this repair, I'll still come out way ahead. Diamond plate can be purchased on-line in 4x8 sheets.

The dealer offered 11K in trade. That was an insult. I know I could get 25K or better easily for it on Craigslist. They just wanted to steal it. I don't go back in there anymore. If they had offered a fair price we may have traded. Dealers suck!

NOTE: Above plan may change without notice. LOL

stew47
Explorer
Explorer
I bought a 98 winne with some delam from a cracked top rear corner. Took way longer to do, way more money, and more headaches than I imagined. I never liked the looks of the repairs and ended selling for less than I wanted. It did stay dry though. Don't do it. i will never attempt again. Find something with no leaks and enjoy camping.

Effy
Explorer II
Explorer II
This sounds like a complete money pit. Water is a killer to any structure. Even if you fixed it I would still be concerned with mold and structural damage. The amount of money you would spend would be lost because it will never be worth what you put into it. I would estimate the cost of the job (likely well over $10k) and take that money and buy something that is in decent shape with no leaks. Plenty of used Rv's out there.
2013 ACE 29.2

Teacher_s_Pet
Explorer
Explorer
If the systems all work, and the drive line is good ...part it out on craigslist! Then look for something without leaks or delamination with the additional monies from the parting out.
'06 Phaeton 40' QSH
'14 Ford Flex SEL AWD Toad
'04 R-Vision Trail-Lite 213
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RV.net Rallies 13, Other Rallies 21, Escapades 7
Fulltimers since 2005, Where are we?
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gbopp
Explorer
Explorer
If the roof is replaced and properly sealed/maintained, it will eliminate the leaks and additional damage.

I don't have any advice for the delam repair. I know it's a major project.

rgatijnet1
Explorer III
Explorer III
In my opinion, you can spend a lot of time, and money, and even after it is repaired, the 1992 Monterey may still be only worth $1200.
I believe the only way that you can properly repair delamination is to completely remove the side wall, take it apart, replace all damaged wood and insulation foam, apply a better adhesive, and then put it all back together again using compression to hold the sidewall flat while the adhesive sets up.
To me this is not s DIY project and should only be attempted in a factory type environment. Even then, the time and materials involved would NOT increase the value of the coach being repaired. Of course, there is probably interior ceiling panels that also have to be dealt with as well as rotted floors from the leaks.
Stopping a roof leak is pretty simple basic repair work. Dealing with the delamination and other damage that has already taken place is the huge problem.
I would find another project Class A without delamination issues.