Does Cat fuel priming pump fit on a Winnebago Journey?

[Spizzer]

I'm getting ready to change fuel filters for the first time on my 2007 Journey, C7 Cat. It is the 34 foot model. After reading about all the issues with pre-fill, don't pre-fill, etc., I think adding the primer is the way to go. The dealer in town has it in stock.

The engine access is under the bed, but I haven't pulled it off yet to see what I am dealing with. I'm not even sure that would tell me much as I don't know how big the Cat pump is.

Can anybody tell me if there is enough clearance between the engine cover and the fuel filter mounting flange to add the pump?

Thanks much!

Jeff

[Spizzer]

Well, got the pump and pulled the engine cover and it doesn't fit. I need the 90 deg bracket. Cat dealer in town doesn't have it, so I guess I will have to order it.

Thanks for all your help,

jeff

[Spizzer]

Old Snipe wrote:
I installed the primer pump on my 07 WB Journey 39K. Plenty of clearance to install it.

When I change the filters, I change the water/separator filter first. I used the primer pump and fill it. Then I start the engine and let it run to get any remaining air through the system. I then replace the secondary filter up on the engine block, fill it with the primer pump and start the engine.

Doing it this way is easier because I don't have to pump the pump handle as much.

Best Regards!

Thanks, Paul. That is good information. I know yours is going to be different, but iit gives me hope.

Jeff

[keepingthelight]

cbeierl wrote:
I can't answer your question directly, put here's what I did on my 2005 Vectra, including pictures: Relocated Fuel Filter & Added Priming Pump

Jealous!:(

[Old_Snipe]

I installed the primer pump on my 07 WB Journey 39K. Plenty of clearance to install it.

When I change the filters, I change the water/separator filter first. I used the primer pump and fill it. Then I start the engine and let it run to get any remaining air through the system. I then replace the secondary filter up on the engine block, fill it with the primer pump and start the engine.

Doing it this way is easier because I don't have to pump the pump handle as much.

Best Regards!

[Mike_Hohnstein]

Re: electric pusher pump. Closer to the tank the better, I have installed one or two @ the engine of a diesel puller, and it did help supply, however elec. fuel pumps work better close to the tank. Beware of less than stellar plumbing connections, like hose and clamp. If air can find a way, it will get into the fuel supply and make you unhappy. Think like bleeding hydraulic brakes when changing filters.

[Spizzer]

wolfe10 wrote:
Jeff,

With the two filter arrangement (the proper one IMO) a valve on the inlet (tank side of primary filter) would keep fuel from siphoning all the way back to the tank if the fuel level in the tank is lower than the filter housing. And keep fuel from flowing out it tank level is higher.

With that valve and the Caterpillar manual primer pump on the secondary filter, changing filters is a breeze-- install both dry and use the manual primer pump to fill. No bleed screws to open, etc. Been doing that for over a decade. No primer pump-- get one, and until you do, fill the filters before installing.

Brett, this is pretty much exactly what I was thinking. It will probably be a bit of priming to get the air from the primary all the way past the secondary, but certainly a good way to do it.

Thanks for all your help.

jeff

[wolfe10]

Jeff,

With the two filter arrangement (the proper one IMO) a valve on the inlet (tank side of primary filter) would keep fuel from siphoning all the way back to the tank if the fuel level in the tank is lower than the filter housing. And keep fuel from flowing out it tank level is higher.

With that valve and the Caterpillar manual primer pump on the secondary filter, changing filters is a breeze-- install both dry and use the manual primer pump to fill. No bleed screws to open, etc. Been doing that for over a decade. No primer pump-- get one, and until you do, fill the filters before installing.

[Spizzer]

Thanks, Scott. That would make the valves work perfect for you. With the second filter there is the possibility air can get in up stream of the filter.

Jeff

[FIRE_UP]

Jeff,

No Sir, mine is the SINGLE filter system. Freightliner and CAT were having a lovers quarrel for a short while and one of the "bean counting kids" won the battle. So, they put a single filter on there for a short time being. Then, they (both FL and CAT) caught so much flack from the owners with the single filter system that, it wasn't too long before they started again with the second filter. At least that's kind of the story I was told.
Scott

[Spizzer]

FIRE UP wrote:

If you went with Home Depot, or Lowes etc. you'd most likely get the same exact setup done for way less than half of what I paid. Now, as for the size of the threads etc. I was a bit confused when I was looking but, the gent at the hydraulics shop where I purchased all the components, straightened me out on all of it. All that's needed is, for you to remove one or two of the fittings etc. that you'll be replacing and take them to whatever shop/facility that you'll be purchasing the valves at, and they'll help with the attaining the correct size and thread of all the components needed. Sorry I couldn't be of more help here.
Scott

Thanks, Scott. I'll do that.
Just to confirm, you have the two filter setup and this works fine for both?

Jeff

[FIRE_UP]

Spizzer wrote:

FIRE UP wrote:


In the end, I installed "TWO VALVES". One on the inlet side of the only filter I have, and one on the outlet side. That way I'm covered if fuel wants to flow in any direction.

As for the OP, what's needed is for you to take a real close look at where that pump will go on your engine in relation to the close proximity of the engine bay walls that your coach builder installed. Some have more clearance than others.

Chris's suggestion for a remote install is a good one, but, if that's your only alternative, do follow Bretts advice in that, there is a specific sequence of fuel flow in that system. Good luck.
Scott

Scott, great idea, but I have a couple of questions.......
Does closing the valves keep air from getting in the system at the secondary filter, to? I can see it keeps it from flowing back towards the primary, but how about forward into the pump and ejector portion, or is that not an issue?

Next do you happen to know the thread and fitting sizes for your setup? Are the valves anything special?

Thanks, jeff

Jeff,
Sorry for the late reply. Yes, having a valve on each side of that filter housing, stops the flow of fuel, in any direction. Then, while not advised, you CAN take your time in changing filters, prefilling etc. The valves I chose, were not cheap. I paid about $14.00 each. You can get way cheaper valves at Home Depot and they're tolerant of diesel fuel etc. They're anywhere from $6.00 to $8.00 and, the fittings and adapters are way cheaper there too. I've got about $60.00 wrapped up in the valve assembly setup.

If you went with Home Depot, or Lowes etc. you'd most likely get the same exact setup done for way less than half of what I paid. Now, as for the size of the threads etc. I was a bit confused when I was looking but, the gent at the hydraulics shop where I purchased all the components, straightened me out on all of it. All that's needed is, for you to remove one or two of the fittings etc. that you'll be replacing and take them to whatever shop/facility that you'll be purchasing the valves at, and they'll help with the attaining the correct size and thread of all the components needed. Sorry I couldn't be of more help here.
Scott

[cbeierl]

Spizzer wrote:

wolfe10 wrote:
There are adapters so that the Caterpillar manual primer pump can be installed at 45 or 90 degrees to the mounting plate. See what works best for you OR even better move the secondary filter to a more accessible location (as many manufacturers did when they built the coach).

The secondary filter (the one with the manual pump) needs to stay in the same position in terms of fuel flow (between lift pump and engine) but can physically be mounted anywhere.

Thanks, Brett. I didn't know about the adapters!

Fyi, my install in the earlier link made use of the 90deg adapter.

[Spizzer]

FIRE UP wrote:


In the end, I installed "TWO VALVES". One on the inlet side of the only filter I have, and one on the outlet side. That way I'm covered if fuel wants to flow in any direction.

As for the OP, what's needed is for you to take a real close look at where that pump will go on your engine in relation to the close proximity of the engine bay walls that your coach builder installed. Some have more clearance than others.

Chris's suggestion for a remote install is a good one, but, if that's your only alternative, do follow Bretts advice in that, there is a specific sequence of fuel flow in that system. Good luck.
Scott

Scott, great idea, but I have a couple of questions.......
Does closing the valves keep air from getting in the system at the secondary filter, to? I can see it keeps it from flowing back towards the primary, but how about forward into the pump and ejector portion, or is that not an issue?

Next do you happen to know the thread and fitting sizes for your setup? Are the valves anything special?

Thanks, jeff

[Spizzer]

Mike Hohnstein wrote:
A Facet or Holley red pump will do the job much easier. Have 10 years running electric pusher pumps with check valve on inlet side, controlled by oil pressure switch and momentary push button to facilitate filter changes, 3208 Cat engine. Cat manual pumps are known for air leakage.

Mike, I've been wondering about that. Can I just put an electric fuel pump upstream of the primary filter and then change the filters and run it till all the air is circulated back to the tank? Will fuel flow through it if it is not running, or would I need to have it run all the time, Orit on a bypass?

Jeff