Engine replacement 1992-1995 Holiday Rambler Vacationer

[Geocritter]

I need some knowledgeable information based on experience and not speculation. After much diagnosis including three separate cylinder balance tests, a thorough exam of the running engine with a mechanics stethoscope and finally a laboratory analysis of the engines motor oil I’ve come to the conclusion that I need to replace the Ford 460 V8 engine in my 1994 Holiday Rambler Vacationer. Though I’m a geologist by profession, I have over 50 years of experience doing 95% of my own mechanical work and I’ve replaced engines before in various cars and trucks I’ve owned over the years. However, they all had traditional engine access. After viewing my rig from both the topside and underneath it appears that the best way to replace the engine is to remove the front grill and bumper as well as the radiator and possibly the engines intake manifold to gain more top end clearance, and finally remove the engine through the front of the vehicle using an engine crane (something like this http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sxt-5218?seid=srese1&gclid=CIThldCZ7sQCFQwbaQodbHwA0A ). I expect installation to be the reverse of removal.


Front of my Holiday Rambler


Photo showing how the grill partially wraps around the front and can be removed.

If anyone has any experience replacing the engine on a 1992 to 1995 Holiday Rambler Vacationer I’d appreciate their insight into the job.
Thanks in advance for your help in this project.

Steve

[enblethen]

Good Luck! Be careful!
Provide pictures if possible.

[Geocritter]

First I’d like to thank those who pitched in with information. With all y’alls help all my various questions were answered. Unfortunately, I won’t be starting work on my rig until May. At this time I’m in Houston house/dog sitting for a friend through the month of April while he’s traveling and his HOA won’t allow me to have the RV here. Come May I’m going to change out the oil in my 460 V8 to 20W50 diesel engine oil add some STP and hopefully drive it out to a friend’s place 160 miles away in San Marcos TX. My friend has a country place with a large concrete slab where I can work on my RV.

I’ll try to photo-document the work so that others interested in swapping their engine will have the information.

Steve

[Geocritter]

RLS7201 wrote:
If the AIR (Air Injection Reactor) is blowing into the exhaust manifolds, you should have the EFI manifolds. Older carb engines had the AIR blowing into the heads.

Richard

Thanks Richard, some good news finally, it looks as if I do have the original EFI exhaust manifolds bolted up to the earlier style replacement heads. BTW I found the old pinched-off head-mounted AIR tubes on the rear of the cylinder heads, further assuring the fact that they are earlier model carb heads.

Steve

[RLS7201]

If the AIR (Air Injection Reactor) is blowing into the exhaust manifolds, you should have the EFI manifolds. Older carb engines had the AIR blowing into the heads.

Richard

[Geocritter]

RLS7201 wrote:
This is the head Ford shipped your chassis with.



Richard

Thanks Richard, I looked over my heads and there's no numbers in that area. However, based on some information I found online the head numbers may be located on the part of the head that's covered by the intake manifold. My only concern is that the guy who installed the carbureted heads also installed exhaust manifolds to match the heads, though I very much doubt it. So far nothings been done by the previous owner that's not some type of half-baked get-it-done-cheap work-around. Based on a few receipts I found, the head work was done in 2010, the nuts and studs attaching the exhaust pipes to the manifolds look like they're 1994 vintage.

Steve

[RLS7201]

This is the head Ford shipped your chassis with.



Richard

[Geocritter]

sailor_lou wrote:
Kinda off topic but.......

Consulting Geologist = Geocritter


Nice, I like it!!

Lou
05 Travel Supreme Envoy

Being 6'5" over 200lbs with a sturdy build, big on strength and endurance but totally lacking in any gracefulness and being a geologist to boot I figured Geocritter pretty much summed me up LOL.

Steve

[Geocritter]

enblethen wrote:
I would be looking at a long block such as this from O'Reilly's.
Ford engine
I have a 7.4 GM and have been snooping for engine replacement for the future.

Thanks for the referral I went over to the nearby O'Reilly's and they said they can order it no problem.

Steve

[Geocritter]

RLS7201 wrote:
The correct cylinder head part number for your year MH is F3TE. The number is to be found between the two center exhaust ports on the head.
E7TE heads will work but are for 1988-1993 EFI 460s.
F3TE heads have bigger valves and redesigned ports.
NO other part numbers will work correctly with your EFI manifolds.

Richard

I didn't find the cylinder head numbers and suspect I have the earlier cylinder heads used on carbureted engines. The previous person who worked on it used non-standard (for the 1994 engine) intake manifold gaskets (probably for the 93 and earlier FI heads). I had a heck of a time finding the gaskets that were used and ended up finding them on eBay. You are correct though, it's not right and to make it work the bottom of the gasket acts as an extension of the intake manifold (the gasket has a thin metal layer sandwiched in the middle. It'll be nice having an engine for a change with all the correct parts!

Steve

[enblethen]

I would be looking at a long block such as this from O'Reilly's.
Ford engine
I have a 7.4 GM and have been snooping for engine replacement for the future.

[RLS7201]

The correct cylinder head part number for your year MH is F3TE. The number is to be found between the two center exhaust ports on the head.
E7TE heads will work but are for 1988-1993 EFI 460s.
F3TE heads have bigger valves and redesigned ports.
NO other part numbers will work correctly with your EFI manifolds.

Richard

[sailor_lou]

Kinda off topic but.......

Consulting Geologist = Geocritter


Nice, I like it!!

Lou
05 Travel Supreme Envoy

[Geocritter]

Passin Thru wrote:
It's a grunt job, will fit through front but you will work to do it and I would consider how much your time is worth compared to a pro. Cover the valves with towels to keep dirt out. I have done inframe overhaul on Cummins engine but that different. Biggest problem is getting the balance on the crane right and not dropping it. You gonna do a short block?

I agree it’s a grunt job which I would love to pay someone to do for me. However, I work as a consulting geologist for the oil industry. The recent 50% drop in oil prices has had a chilling effect on my consulting business. For the time being I’m short on money and long on time which means I get to do the grunt work. But hey, fuel is cheap.

I plan to install a long block assembly. I’d consider a short block but the “mechanic” that did the earlier engine work on my rig swapped out the engines fuel injection ported cylinder heads for carburation ported cylinder heads. The engine worked using non-standard intake gaskets but it wasn’t right, now I have the opportunity to make it mechanically right and correct some more of the mickey mouse repair work done by others over the years.

Steve

[Passin_Thru]

It's a grunt job, will fit through front but you will work to do it and I would consider how much your time is worth compared to a pro. Cover the valves with towels to keep dirt out. I have done inframe overhaul on Cummins engine but that different. Biggest problem is getting the balance on the crane right and not dropping it. You gonna do a short block?