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Extension Valves on Inside Dually, Yes or No

rvnetter
Explorer
Explorer
Do you have extension valves on your inside Dually? If Yes, what kind do use or recommend?
Happy Trails to You!

The Tin Tent
2006 R-Vision Trail Lite
21 REPLIES 21

Seon
Explorer II
Explorer II
OLYLEN wrote:
Got mine from Les Schwab for $15, good metal Crome. But to mount all 4 was a $100 bill. Check your local truck tire dealer, they should have what you want without spending too much.

LEN


Wait, see if I read this right...$15 for the Alligator caps and $100 to install? :h

LOG
Explorer
Explorer
Charles. I use the setup you described, long air chuck, and Alligator caps. Thanks for the tip and link to Air Head Chuck Nuts. Very much appreciated.
LOG
2005 Chinook Glacier

OLYLEN
Explorer
Explorer
Got mine from Les Schwab for $15, good metal Crome. But to mount all 4 was a $100 bill. Check your local truck tire dealer, they should have what you want without spending too much.

LEN

Seon
Explorer II
Explorer II
CharlesinGA wrote:
Harvey51 wrote:
...Plus German made brass Alligator V2B service thru the cap, valve stem caps...




Charles


I just ordered the very same caps due to arrive Tuesday. Hope the reviews are correct ๐Ÿ˜‰

Oklahoma_Dan
Explorer
Explorer
Before my trip to Alaska I purchased Tire Man valve extenders and had them installed by Discount Tire. Then to moniter air pressure added the TST 507 flow through TPMS. My concern was getting best quality, good reliable performance and not necessarily what it cost. After many miles of travel I must say these two products together took away much of the worry about tires.

j-d
Explorer II
Explorer II
I'd venture Charles' valves weren't installed properly. As he noted, the instructions say you have to bend that long one to get it through the hand holes and the rubber stabilizer if applicable.
I, too, took wheels off and carted all seven to the auto shop on the local Navy base. We went over the Instructions together stressing bending the stems, stacking outer wheel onto inner (and I brought a Simulator as well) to check alignment, and LocTite to keep the mounting nuts tight. Zero problems. I doubt there are many wheels harder to align valves to, than the Fords 1992-2007 with those tiny round holes. Even with simulators that have still smaller holes, my valves line right up. I mount our wheels with the two valves opposite minus one stud. That's because there's a 7/16" hole in the 8-lug pattern between two holes. I threaded those holes 1/2" SAE to match a lug bolt from a trailer. I can "drive" that lug bolt and force stuck wheels off of the hubs. If I lined the two wheels up with valves opposite, those threaded holes would line up. I'd be screwing the wheels together instead of pushing them apart...
If God's Your Co-Pilot Move Over, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100 218" WB

CharlesinGA
Explorer
Explorer
Harvey51 wrote:
When we bought our 4 year old MH, I didn't buy special stems. The used Ford had plastic extenders on the valve stems and I managed quite nicely with pressure gauges like this and a similar inflation head for my compressor.
P
The straight on end is necessary for the inner wheel and the backward angle one for the outer s which must have the valve stem long enough to be close to the rim opening. I have had a service station add air twice and they both had the appropriate inflation tool. I rarely use my portable air pump but it is a comfort to have for sure,

I never had trouble that a plastic extender but a metal one I tried failed to close after I checked the pressure at a rest stop. I got the darn thing off quickly enough to limp to a service station.

With the first set of new tires I got Costco to install longer valve stems (rubber) and have never needed extenders since. I also decided to put regular valve caps on to keep things clean, using a short length of plastic tubing with a wood dowel holder to take off and put them back on. It takes about 5 minutes to check all the tire pressures. Would be a little faster if I marked the spot on the rim where the stems are located. The Costco installer thoughtfully installed the wheels so both inner and outer valves are in the same big rim opening.


The gauges shown by Harvey are the type I recommend. It makes checking pressures with standard stems very easy.

For balance purposes, the wheels should have been mounted with the stems 180 degrees apart, directly opposite each other.

I tried the Borg stems on my Sprinter and quickly gave up and had the tire shop break down the wheels and remove them. We reinstalled standard rubber/brass 80 psi truck stems. I had jacked it up and home and pulled the wheels, part of the problem was that I quickly discovered that it was very difficult to install the wheels without damaging the stems, the stems also did not fit properly even though they were supposed to be bent properly and also that the long stem on the inner wheel makes it impossible to interchange it to any other position without breaking it down and swapping the stems, and this requires more seals as you damage the seals getting it apart.

To Borg's credit, they promptly refunded me all of my money and I was happy. Possibly on other vehicles they fit better, but the problem of non-interchangeability of rims with the long stems and the difficulty of mounting wheels on the vehicle without damaging the stems is still present.

I do not run wheel simulators. I removed them as soon as I got the vehicle home when I bought it. I use a slime gauge similar to the one Harvey shows, plus a Milton 12 inch long straight/reverse angle air chuck https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004QI1WEA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Plus German made brass Alligator V2B service thru the cap, valve stem caps. Keeps dirt out of the stem, but eliminates the need to remove caps to service or check pressure. https://www.amazon.com/Alligator-V2B-Inflate-Through-Valve/dp/B014VCY3S2/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=...





The Milton chuck has grooves inside the ends to allow it to "lock on" to the thread on a valve stem or the machined locking grooves (which are not threads) on the Alligator caps. This makes the chuck frustrating to use, so I replaced the seal retainer/end nuts on the Milton with smooth, ungrooved ones, https://www.miltonindustries.com/dual-head-chuck-nut.html



Charles
'03 Ram 2500 CTD, 5.9HO six speed, PacBrake Exh Brake, std cab, long bed, Leer top and 2008 Bigfoot 25B21RB.. previously (both gone) 2008 Thor/Dutchman Freedom Spirit 180 & 2007 Winnebago View 23H Motorhome.

Harvey51
Explorer
Explorer
When we bought our 4 year old MH, I didn't buy special stems. The used Ford had plastic extenders on the valve stems and I managed quite nicely with pressure gauges like this and a similar inflation head for my compressor.
P
The straight on end is necessary for the inner wheel and the backward angle one for the outer s which must have the valve stem long enough to be close to the rim opening. I have had a service station add air twice and they both had the appropriate inflation tool. I rarely use my portable air pump but it is a comfort to have for sure,

I never had trouble that a plastic extender but a metal one I tried failed to close after I checked the pressure at a rest stop. I got the darn thing off quickly enough to limp to a service station.

With the first set of new tires I got Costco to install longer valve stems (rubber) and have never needed extenders since. I also decided to put regular valve caps on to keep things clean, using a short length of plastic tubing with a wood dowel holder to take off and put them back on. It takes about 5 minutes to check all the tire pressures. Would be a little faster if I marked the spot on the rim where the stems are located. The Costco installer thoughtfully installed the wheels so both inner and outer valves are in the same big rim opening.
2004 E350 Adventurer (Canadian) 20 footer - Alberta, Canada
No TV + 100W solar = no generator needed

DrewE
Explorer II
Explorer II
I may be in the minority (at least as far as this poll goes), but I just use air-through valve caps. They do extend the length of the valve by maybe a half inch, and let one add air or check pressure without removing the valve caps. The extra bit of length is enough (barely) to get a chuck on the inner ones without too much drama. A dually chuck with the inner wheel foot straight on, rather than at an angle to the body, seems to be the most useful for my rig. The ones with the end angled are more common, though.

Even with extended valve stems, the air through valve caps are super convenient.

j-d
Explorer II
Explorer II
txnese wrote:
I bought this kit for 2004 Fourwinds 5000 28A back in November 2017, so far so good, very convenient.

https://yourtireshopsupply.com/product/7192/dl1ecfr-chrome-duallyvalve-kit-with-front-stems


Quoted Link is for the BORG Dually Valves. A few years ago, Camping World started selling them, and the price was VERY good. I don't know if they're still carrying them, or how much of the product line. Fords with the 8 or 10 small "hand holes" (really? infant hand, maybe) were are the greatest need for custom valves. When I bought ours at Six Robblees, it was the only kit they stocked. Four Brass Rear Stems and Two Rubber Stabilizers.
If God's Your Co-Pilot Move Over, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100 218" WB

txnese
Explorer
Explorer
I bought this kit for 2004 Fourwinds 5000 28A back in November 2017, so far so good, very convenient.

https://yourtireshopsupply.com/product/7192/dl1ecfr-chrome-duallyvalve-kit-with-front-stems

j-d
Explorer II
Explorer II
Bordercollie wrote:
Confusion: Cheap screw-on valve extensions can leak and even lead to running soft and tire failure. Custom formed solid metal valve assemblies like Borg Dually valves need to be installed onto each wheel and do not leak, make checking and adding air easy.

^^^Correct^^^
Some OP's have their home brew work-arounds and that's OK. I wanted to be able to both Check Pressure and Add Air with Any Gauge, Any Chuck, and the custom valves accomplish that.
My second choice would be Braided Airless Extensions. By Airless, they don't open the actual tire valve till we push a gauge or chuck onto the extension. There's a flexible push rod that accomplishes this.
***BUT*** ONLY if the actual Tire Valves are METAL!!! You don't want any additional weight on "rubber" valves, even those "high pressure" ones.
If God's Your Co-Pilot Move Over, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100 218" WB

johnwalkerpa1
Explorer
Explorer
ksg5000 wrote:
Tire-Man. Great product/service - no leaks.


Agreed......totally trouble free and maintains constant pressure better than anything I've ever had. When I bought them 4 years ago it was about $150 for the kit and another $100 to have them installed. Best money spent on any mod.

Bordercollie
Explorer
Explorer
Confusion: Cheap screw-on valve extensions can leak and even lead to running soft and tire failure. Custom formed solid metal valve assemblies like Borg Dually valves need to be installed onto each wheel and do not leak, make checking and adding air easy. No need to remove beauty discs.They stay on wheels and are not changed out with new tire installations. RV tires are not rotated so they stay on same wheels. Not cheap, but worth it if you intend to keep the rig for some time.