F53 coolant change with motoraide

First drain the unit, then fill the cooling system with water. Turn engine and let it run until it warms up really good. Drain the water and re-fill system with anti-freeze mixed no stronger then 50/50 mix of your chose.

Captain_Happy wrote:
First drain the unit, then fill the cooling system with water. Turn engine and let it run until it warms up really good. Drain the water and re-fill system with anti-freeze mixed no stronger then 50/50 mix of your chose.

You may need to fill, run and drain more than once to get all of the old stuff out. Repeat until what you drain has no color at all.

When you refill, it is best if you use distilled water rather than tap water. That keeps the minerals out of the system at the start.

I change my antifreeze, belt(s) and hoses in all my vehicles at 30,000. The belt(s) get done first, then the hoses. Then: I start the motor and wait until the thermostat opens up, pull off the bottom hose and let all that old stuff dump out into my container.. Then put new in. Maybe kinda tricky, as the thermostat might close off...gotta watch it, and when it re-opens, start adding more antifreeze until it reaches the "full" level of your container. Even then,watch it and make sure it stays at that level. If your RV came with green anti freeze, replace it with green. If gold (in color) replace it with gold.

Just the way I do things. Next year, I'll have 60,000 on the RV, will do it again. Maybe this time, the spark plugs, too. We'll see.

I did my 99 V10 a few years ago.The book says the capacity is 8 gallons.when I would drain the radiator I would get 4 gallons.I refilled with 4 gallons of distilled water and ran the MH.I would drive it to a local dirt bike track every weekend(90 mile round trip),and drain it again during the week.I did this during the summer so there was no freezing issues.I did this 5 or 6 times until the water came out clean,then refilled with 4 gallons of straight antifreeze.

And when you are running the engine to flush and then fill, be sure dash heater and motor-aid heater valve are full open. Fan speed not important-- leave it off or lowest setting.

Just finish helping a friend yesterday. Dump the engine first then removed the line going to the back. We used a pump and flush out the rear until clear. did the engine the same way. Then used low pressure air 10 lbs and push out the clean water from the back. Engine the same way. As stated use the color that came out. Premix and pump it back into the back till it runs out. Connects the hoses back to engine. Fill up engine and run to get rid of the air. We had over five gallons in the bucket. Did not measure it. Just filled it back and ran and drove it till no more air. He purchase 4 gallons and then mix 50/50. He has a few more day to run around and top off as needed. All hoses were replace also along with thermostat.

Only use pre-mix if you are positive you have 100% of the rinse water (preferably distilled water) out. This is very difficult to do on many systems unless you take loose and blow out lines to dash heater core, motoraid heater core, etc.

If you can determine the full system capacity from Winnebago, after the final rinse with distilled water, add 1/2 the volume in coolant concentrate and just top off with distilled water. Then, you will have a 50/50 mixture.

Curious, I have been running my ford 5.4 for 6 years at 128k miles and never changed coolant. Runs fine, never runs hot or cold. I have heard mechanics advising to change coolant but I have also heard it's a bit of a racket. What's the truth and why change at only 30k miles? is there an indication it's bad? Does coolant actually go bad? And how does one tell other than a cooant tester (again mine tests fine).

Effy wrote:
Curious, I have been running my ford 5.4 for 6 years at 128k miles and never changed coolant. Runs fine, never runs hot or cold. I have heard mechanics advising to change coolant but I have also heard it's a bit of a racket. What's the truth and why change at only 30k miles? is there an indication it's bad? Does coolant actually go bad? And how does one tell other than a cooant tester (again mine tests fine).

PH & anti- corrosive additives...

Be sure not to mix different types of coolant fluids, because some will not mix with others & you'll end up with a system full of slime that will harden once the engine is hot.
Seen 4X4 ATV engines destroyed like that, not knowing which anti-freeze is in the system & then adding a different type.
Neil