Ford F53 460 powered fan clutch options?

[Rocket9k]

Hello all, new to the forums. I have a 1997 Winnebago 34' on the ford F53 chassis. I would like to replace my fan clutch as I believe the original is getting weak.

Has anyone found a suitable replacement for the discontinued fan clutch for the 1992-97 460 powered F53? The original ford part, Part number F2TZ-8A616-B is discontinued and superseded by AU2Z-8A616-P, which is a truck clutch and will not work properly in a motorhome. My original clutch works but I believe it has become weak; It will not engage at highway speeds until the temperature has nearly reached the redline.

I tried the Hayden severe duty 2799 which some guys have recommended, but on a hot day it runs nearly constantly, and over cools the system to the point where the thermostat is closing, not to mention the noise was unbearable. Anyone found anything that works properly in this application? This is the last little hurtle I have with my RV and I can finally stop working on it and enjoy it! Thanks everyone.

[RLS7201]

When my 95 F53 460 fan clutch failed, I replaced it with This clutch from Oreilly Auto.
Price is right and it has worked correctly for the last 40,000 miles. I hear my fan clutch engage and disengage all the time and my temp gauge doesn't move unless the engine overheats.

To change the clutch, work through the dog house. Do not remove the belts or fan shroud.
Remove the two hoses going to the throttle body, for room to work.
Loosen the 4 bolt holding the fan to the clutch but don't remove them. Remove the 4 bolts holding the clutch to the water pump. Slide the whole assembly into the fan shroud, carefully. Remove the 4 bolts you previously loosened. Remove the clutch. Find a 1" stud and insert it in one of the water pump bolt holes. This will help you align the clutch holes to the water pump holes. Put it back together.

Richard

[Chum_lee]

IMO, it's normal for the clutch to engage at right about max normal temperature range on the gauge. You'll hear the noise. Make sure you have a 50/50 water/ethylene glycol coolant mix. With that mix you should be covered up to about 230F before boil over. If kept stock, Ford trucks generally have very stout cooling systems. Another check you can do is see if there is any lateral/radial play between the clutch shaft and the fan itself. There shouldn't be any.

When working properly, the system will function fine at temps up to 212F. If it regularly gets over that, then is the time to worry.

Chum lee

[Gjac]

Is your electric fan coming on when temps begin to rise? When does your engine overheat? on long hills? at idle? over 90f days? Did you have this issue before you changed the WP? Also I would compare your gauge reading to readings taken with an IR gun at the thermostat housing and sensor in head that controls your temp gauge. At idle at operating temperature what is the temperature difference from the inlet to the outlet of your radiator? With a new radiator etc. I understand why you suspect the fan clutch but it sounds like you have only 30f to play with between clutches. It may be operating as it should. I would choose an OEM clutch over an after market one. 460's and 454's generate a lot of heat. My fan clutch used to come on at the slightest hill until I put headers on and I never hear it come on except and long hills.

[time2roll]

Why does the truck clutch not work?

Otherwise maybe you need less than the severe duty Hayden clutch. Is there a normal or heavy duty?

[Rocket9k]

Gijac, I did notice a coating of sticky goo on the spring and a little on the face of the aluminum casing. I cleaned it thoroughly when i had it apart and tested it with a torch. It seemed to work.

From what I read, the clutches used on the F53 from 92-97 engage at around 200 degrees air temp. The Hayden severe duty that I tried engages at around 170 degrees air temp. It ran almost constantly.

The factory clutch may be fine, but I would think it should come on long before it's getting that hot.

[Rocket9k]

Thanks for the replies! I did not note in my original post but should have: I just replaced the radiator, hoses, water pump, and thermostat. I found the original radiator to be leaking and internally obstructed with crud.

I had an issue with it running all the way at the high end of the temp scale constantly, and the new radiator cured that problem but I'm still concerned that the fan may not be engaging properly. It will not engage during normal driving until the temp goes past the L in Normal. Occasionally it will engage at a traffic light but quickly We plan on taking the rig on many out of state trips, possibly with a toad, and I want to be absolutely sure the cooling system is at 100%.

[Gjac]

The bi metal that J&J mentioned is a coil spring it opens when the air temp gets to about 160 F, and lets a silicone fluid engage the fan. It does not work off the engine temp gauge which can be off quite a bit. Look for any leaking of this fluid, does the fan spin by hand more than one rotation when cold? The other thing to check on a 20 plus year old fan is any dirt build up on the bi metal spring right in the center of the fan, which could insulate it and cause it to come on later.

[John_Joey]

That fan clutch is bimetal and I doubt it gets weak. Either works or not. Works off of ambient compartment temperature, not engine temperature.

I’m guessing your real problem is in the cooling system. When was the last time the fluid was changed, or even flushed. Also check your transmission fluid.

[Home_Skillet]

Maybe go with an electric cooling fan?