fuel booster pump on f53 fords

[nickmae]

Would like to know if anyone has added an in-line booster pump
on their f-53 fords to increase fuel pressure and how it worked out before I go thru dropping the tank etc. I'm getting only 20# at the fuel rail and should be getting 35-45#. I've seen this mentioned on this forum before and would like to hear from anyone who has tried or done it. Thanks

[SRT]

Did you ever replace your in-line fuel filter that sits in the frame rail below the driver?

[nickmae]

PROBLEM SOLVED. I installed a Carter in-line fuel pump rated at 75gph. and 45psi. I wired this pump thru a new circuit from the starting battery using a new 30 amp cube relay with the circuit fused @ 15 amps to prevent overloading the original circuits in the fuel system. The coil of this relay is activated thru the same negative signal as the original fuel pump relay and the inertia switch shuts the fuel supply down as desired. The rig now starts normally and full power is restored. Fuel pressure with key on, key off holds @ 40psi and 35psi while running. Throttle has no hesitation and again, full power is restored. Now it's a good cleaning inside and out and we're ready to roll.
Thank you again for all your help with this issue and HAPPY CAMPING TO ALL.

[Dutch_12078]

I initially wired my inline pump with a manual switch temporarily mounted under the dash in order to get on down the road. Once we were settled in for a few days though, I rewired it to use a cube relay controlled through the inertia switch for safety and convenience.

[fcooper]

When I had my 96 Dutch Star, I got some documents from a fellow rv'r that had installed a booster pump. Luckily I never had to use it, but I've pasted below his written instructions. I also have a wiring diagram that I could send to you if you need it but I'll need your email address (send me a private message). I didn't see mentioned in the posts above wiring the pump to shut off via the inertia switch if the motorhome is involved in an accident. It's something to considder. He's also included a parts list that may be of some help.

Tom wrote:
My In-Line Fuel Pump Installation

WORKING WITH GASOLINE, SAFETY IS ALWAYS AT THE TOP OF THE LIST!
The concept is to add a fuel pump in series with the stock in the tank fuel pump. Power is supplied from the battery through a fuse to an added relay and on to the new in-line fuel pump.
The control of this new relay comes from the stock fuel pump relay and after the stock inertia (fuel shut off) switch. Being after the inertia switch is important because it shuts off the power to the fuel pumps in the event of an accident. I’ve tried to be fairly detailed in the text but the actual installation is not very technical.

Items of importance
1. It is preferable to solder all connections, especially any exposed to the weather.
2. Shrink tube or otherwise seal all exposed connections
3. Position the waterproof fuse at the chassis battery. I soldered a ring terminal
to one pigtail of the fuse holder and attached that directly to the battery.
4. All new fuel pump wiring should be stranded and 10 gauge or larger.
5. Mount the new relay inside the coach preferably close to the inertia switch.
6. Make sure grounds at the new fuel pump and at the new relay are electrically
solid or run ground wires to the chassis battery negative post.
7. The short pieces of hose that connect the new pump to the existing steel fuel line must be
rated for high pressure fuel injection applications.
8. Connection of the fuel injection hose to the “cut” steel fuel line should be double clamped
or the steel line bulged/expanded to help secure the rubber fuel hose and then single clamped. The following is the technique I used to bulged/expand steel fuel lines. I use the first stage of a “double flaring tool” to create a bulged/expanded area in the steel line. I will include a sketch of what the bulged/expanded area looks like. These hoses are under approximately 40 lbs. pressure and must be properly secured for safety.
9. I used a small home made bracket and a radiator hose clamp to secure the new fuel pump
to the chassis.
10. The connections to the relay can be made with .25 inch spade connectors, these and the
required ring terminals are available from Radio Shack or many hardware stores.
I used a surplus 12volt aircraft relay that I had in my “junk” box.

In the “Pump” photo the arrow is pointed toward the front of the coach.
In the “Dash” photo the arrow points to the inertia switch. You can see it’s location
relative to the steering and emergency brake.

If inertia switch wiring color code does not match the drawing here is how I
determined the proper wire.
Disconnect the connector from the inertia switch.
Using a volt meter, attach the ground wire of the meter to the coach chassis ground.
Attach the voltmeter positive lead to one of the wires in the connector.
Turn the ignition to the “Run” position. This runs the fuel pump for approximately
two seconds and then shuts off.
When connected to the wire that runs to the fuel pump relay it will
show approximately 12volts. The meter may not be able to able to react fast
enough to show the full 12 volt reading.
Connecting the meter positive lead to the other wire, again turn the ignition switch to the “Run” position and the meter will show no voltage during the two second period. This is the lead
to be used.
Connect the wire to the new relay to the inertia switch wire that showed no voltage during the two seconds after the ignition switch was turned to the “Run” position.

Parts List
Fuel Pump (vortechsuperchargers.com)
Vortec, In line, 155 liter per hour P/N 8F001-002 $88.30
Second source, Walbro P/N GSL-393
Relay, McMaster Carr (mcmaster.com)
P/N 7678K41 12 volt coil 25 amp contacts, DPST – NO $11.68
Second source, Radio Shack P/N 900-2394 (lower quality) $2.99
Fuse Holder
West Marine (westmarine.com) Water proof 30 amp with pig tails. P/N 19637 $7.49
Fuse
West Marine 30 amp. P/N 412643 $2.59

Other items were, ring and spade terminals, one hose clamp to mount the pump, hose clamps
for the fuel hose, shrink tubing, and a bracket mounted to the frame for you to clamp the pump to.

This is how implemented the modification to my coach and is supplied with no expressed or implied responsibility on my part as to modifications you may undertake on your coach.

Fred

[nickmae]

Thanks again for the info., I'll check it out. I'll probably go with the
one you used since you had good luck with it in your rig. I'm also going to replace the throttle position sensor as that can also cause hesitation on acceleration. It's not expensive and can't hurt. Will let you know how it all
works out when I'm done. I really appreciate your help here.

[Dutch_12078]

I used an Edelbrock #3594 inline pump purchased from NAPA. It's rated at 67 GPH @ 45 PSI.

[nickmae]

Thanks again for the info. I think I'll give it a try. I'm considering an MSD Ignition High Pressure Pump rated at 43 gph and 40# pressure. If possible, would like to know which pump you used for your installation as I would like to compare the specs before I buy one.

[Dutch_12078]

I installed a booster pump when our in-tank pump started failing while passing through New Mexico on our way to the Grand Canyon. After getting towed into the campground where we had planned to spend the night, I ordered the pump and assorted hose, clamps, wiring, etc., from the local NAPA, and picked everything up the next morning. It took me about an hour to do the actual installation, and the coach has run fine ever since. My "ToDo" list this year includes replacing the in-tank pump though. I'm still deciding whether I want to drop the tank or do a through the floor installation.

[wildmanbaker]

As long as you can get enough fuel flow through the in-tank pump, it will work fine. Make sure you get a pump with enough pressure and flow to meet the demands of the engine. Increasing the pressure by 20 psi, and flow by 10gpm over stock, will actually improve performance. You may/want to disable the in-tank pump, but as long as you can get flow through the pump, it will work.