How to Fix a Squirrelly Front End?

[Johnny_Dearborn]

Ever since I bought my 2001 Ford E350 chassis class C, the RV has pulled to one side or the other when I brake. I've had the brakes redone. New brake disks put on. Tested out everything brake related. It still pulls fairly hard, mostly to the left. The problem definitely isn't the brakes.

I did get the RV aligned - though that took some work. Took it to three different shops before one guy got it right. He had a helluva time. Not sure on the details but he had to put in a lot of whatever they put in to get the vehicle aligned. I don't know if the alignment is tied to the steering issues I'm having. Right now though the vehicle drives straight (on a windless day on a perfect highway).

The steering has also gotten fairly sloppy - I can jiggle the wheel considerably without it affecting the wheels. I've been told the problem is the "front end." What exactly does that mean? Where do I take the RV to get it fixed? It's beyond what my local mechanic can do. Not sure where and what to do at this point. Suggestions and insight appreciated.

[BobsYourUncle]

Yes, yes and yes to the above mentioned brake calipers and to the brakes causing the pull. Front end issues won't cause brake pull.

You asked, front end refers to all the various steering components, ball joints, wheel bearings etc that hold your wheels pointing in the right direction.

Calipers can stick internally and wont show up on a visual inspection. Also make sure the caliper sliders are not stuck. Sliders are a term referring to the calipers moving on the pins, or the bolts that hold them on. If the bolts are rusted or seized, a caliper can stick and suffer inefficient operation. They usually have a greased internal O ring that runs on the pin.
And if the piston is sticking, same deal. New calipers fix that, but ensuring the place where the caliper slides on the bolts needs to be clean too is important.

And don't overlook the proportioning valve either. This is a junction block after the master cylinder that regulates the ratio of front to rear brake pressure, 60/40 or what ever it is.
If there is a chunk of schmoo in one of the openings to the brake line, you get more pressure to one side, causing it to pull.

Also, check out the front brake hoses going from the steel line to the caliper. If they are old, original from 2001, they could be breaking down inside. A loose piece of rubber can actually make a flap that closes off the hose under pressure, again causing more braking to the other side, and it pulling.
I know this to be fact, I had the same issue on a 78 Chev pickup years ago. 2 new rubber brake lines to the calipers cured the braking pull.

[_1Flyboy]

Was in the auto repair business & to me, I always found Fords steering, well, squirrelly.....

[pianotuna]

Hi,

What tire pressure on the front? What tire pressure on the rear?

How long is the RV?

What is the wheel bass?

[theoldwizard1]

If it only pulls to one side or the other, it is the brakes. End of discussion. It could be many things but my guess it is the caliper guide pins. Around $10-$12 per side, online. The pads could be sticking in the caliper mounting bracket. $15-$20 per side, online. Or just buy NEW (not rebuilt) calipers which also include the above items for about $70 per side, online.

As for alignment, there is always so "slop" in those steering systems. To get the vehicle to track straight (not wander) you have to go BEYOND the specification on caster. Much more negative caster angle than recommend.

You might also need special camber bushing.

You need to find a shop that only does alignments, preferably with a mechanic who has been doing it for a long time. He will understand what I just said.

Last, if you coach is "tail heavy" or the rear spring have sagged it will also make the front end "wander". New shocks (Koni or Bilstein) will help some.

[bobndot]

By tomorrow you will have enough advice to completely rebuild it.

[midnightsadie]

X@ a sticking caliper.

[wopachop]

Did you pay for 3 different alignments? Asking because did the first 2 shops come out and tell you they could not perform the alignment until you repair some parts? Was it a lazer alignment or a dude with a tape measure?

From what you decribe its probably a combo of many worn parts. Most likely the ball joints and tie rod ends. Would explain why the 3rd shop needed to adjust a component so far. With a ball joint warn out it effects your camber.

Ive done my own alignment at home. So i know a wee bit about it. Only reason i dont take to a shop is because im cheap and have the skills to get camber and tow in close enough for my older pickup.

Some of this might not make sense. If your trailer was parked here i would jack up the front end and start shaking parts. Get the front wheel 1 or 2 inches off the ground and then stick a crowbar under the tire. Shake the tire up and down to prove there is play in the ball joints. Then shake it side to side to find play in the steering.

Another thing to consider is you cant rule out your brakes. Just because you installed new rotors and pads doesnt mean the fluid and lines are clean. Did they replace the calipers as well? Maybe your front left caliper likes to stick. Makes your truck pull left sometimes.

The simple answer to your question is that the big metal pieces that hold your wheels in place, and make the wheels turn side to side, have worn out and developed play. Those parts can move around and settle in different spots. Thats why sometimes it pulls left, sometimes right. Depends where those loose parts have settled.

[4x4van]

Have you weighed your rig (preferably 4 corner, but at the very least front/rear) and adjusted your tire pressure according to the actual weight on each axle? That made a night/day difference in the handling of my last RV (Ford E-350 class C); it was a white knuckle ride prior, very relaxing after.

You say that you've had the brakes redone, but does that mean just the front, or both front and rear? The rear could cause it to pull also.

A "sloppy" front end could be any number of things worn, from the steering box itself to the idler arm to tie rods to... Your alignment guy should have been able to narrow that down when he did the alignment.

[Johnny_Dearborn]

Plturne wrote:
My suggestion is to research local RV shops and try to find one that specializes in suspension work that has a stellar reputation. Our Class C handled poorly when purchased so I made an appointment with Henderson’s Line-Up in Grants Pass OR (I’m in NorCal). They complete a test drive under various conditions with you riding along. They write up recommendations and discuss with you. I agreed to upgrade shocks, sway bars, steering stabilizer and perform a very exacting alignment. I would estimate handling improved 40+%. Of high importance is it’s now safer and less fatiguing to drive.

Just drove through Grant's Pass in my RV earlier this week. Nice little town. I drove through a lot of those Oregon and Washington mountain passes on this trip. Was white knuckle with my sloppy steering especially at night when a semi would pass in the opposite direction. Would be much more relaxing if I had tighter steering.

[MDKMDK]

Has a Ford truck dealer looked at it. It's their chassis. Get them to look at it, and particularly at the steering gear box. I had a 3500 Chevy chassis under a 2002 Roadtrek, that had sloppy steering, but didn't pull to one side. They diagnosed it as worn steering gears inside the box. The box was obsolete, it never caused me any handling problems, so I never bothered replacing it. There were some after market options, but never bothered pursuing it.
Ford Dealers San Diego area

[Plturne]

My suggestion is to research local RV shops and try to find one that specializes in suspension work that has a stellar reputation. Our Class C handled poorly when purchased so I made an appointment with Henderson’s Line-Up in Grants Pass OR (I’m in NorCal). They complete a test drive under various conditions with you riding along. They write up recommendations and discuss with you. I agreed to upgrade shocks, sway bars, steering stabilizer and perform a very exacting alignment. I would estimate handling improved 40+%. Of high importance is it’s now safer and less fatiguing to drive.