INTERMITTENT 12 VOLT LOSS
It began after buying 2 new Interstate (6 volt?) Group 24 Deep Cycle replacements for our 6 year old Trojan 105 6 volts.
Told the clerk in SC Boat/Rv store, we needed 2x6 volt Deep Cell, she quoted 89$ each.
Brought in our old Trojan T-105 6'volt's, they unloaded them from dolly, and popped 2 new group 24`s on the counter, I told them the battery posts were inline, ours were diagonal, they said so long as your wiring reaches, should be no problem.
I noticed later after checking voltage on a single battery that it has 6 wet cell ports, never dawned on me till then, bought last 6 volts over 15 years ago...
I did check the labels, there were no indication of voltage's, so I proceeded and installed them in the same series as the 6 volts.
400 miles down the road, we stopped for the night and noticed the Zantrex 10 Freedom was showing battery`s low and need charging, took me until the next morning to remove the battery wires to check the voltage on on battery, shocked it read 12.6 volt!, I had run almost 24 hours with 24 volts hooked up, yikes!
I was getting 12.5 across the two 12's joined in the same sequence as the Trojan 6 volts, nothing on the invoice indicated the voltage, only Group 24 and deep cell.
Stopped in at Interstate Syracuse, NY store, they were very surprised at how that could happen, but they nicely gave us full credit against the correct 6 volt Group 24's, cost us 40$ more plus tax for the pair, & installed them for us.
Now the ongoing problem is this, when running down the road on the single 12 volt (removed the other when finding the issue) everything worked providing 12 volt, but inverter could not provide power to the refer, so we left it on LP, however, now with the 2 x 6's, that is working fine. So appears the inverter was well protected & not damaged.
When we stop the chassis engine, the 12 volt continues to provide the house, but in about 30 to 60 minutes, the battery disconnect light goes out & will not return till we start the chassis engine.
If we start the generator while the battery disconnect light is still red, and chassis engine is on, it runs for ever going down the road, but once we turn off the engine it runs for about a minute and then cuts out when the battery disconnect light goes off.
When the chassis alternator is providing the 12 volt, and even after we shut off the engine and turn off the battery disconnect (also, while the red light is still lit) and back on several times it appears to function as usual, disconnecting and re-connecting the 12 volt.
Anyway, I replaced the battery 4 post disconnect today, did not correct the issue. (30$ lost!)
We'll be home tomorrow and I'll have more time to test power to the 4 post solenoid I replaced to see if house voltage is reaching it when the red light is on or off.
It appears now it's something between the batteries and the solenoid.
Does anyone have any idea how to find the 12 volt shut down issue, obviously caused by the 24 volt load, the issue appears to only occur when relying only on the house batteries?
Told the clerk in SC Boat/Rv store, we needed 2x6 volt Deep Cell, she quoted 89$ each.
Brought in our old Trojan T-105 6'volt's, they unloaded them from dolly, and popped 2 new group 24`s on the counter, I told them the battery posts were inline, ours were diagonal, they said so long as your wiring reaches, should be no problem.
I noticed later after checking voltage on a single battery that it has 6 wet cell ports, never dawned on me till then, bought last 6 volts over 15 years ago...
I did check the labels, there were no indication of voltage's, so I proceeded and installed them in the same series as the 6 volts.
400 miles down the road, we stopped for the night and noticed the Zantrex 10 Freedom was showing battery`s low and need charging, took me until the next morning to remove the battery wires to check the voltage on on battery, shocked it read 12.6 volt!, I had run almost 24 hours with 24 volts hooked up, yikes!
I was getting 12.5 across the two 12's joined in the same sequence as the Trojan 6 volts, nothing on the invoice indicated the voltage, only Group 24 and deep cell.
Stopped in at Interstate Syracuse, NY store, they were very surprised at how that could happen, but they nicely gave us full credit against the correct 6 volt Group 24's, cost us 40$ more plus tax for the pair, & installed them for us.
Now the ongoing problem is this, when running down the road on the single 12 volt (removed the other when finding the issue) everything worked providing 12 volt, but inverter could not provide power to the refer, so we left it on LP, however, now with the 2 x 6's, that is working fine. So appears the inverter was well protected & not damaged.
When we stop the chassis engine, the 12 volt continues to provide the house, but in about 30 to 60 minutes, the battery disconnect light goes out & will not return till we start the chassis engine.
If we start the generator while the battery disconnect light is still red, and chassis engine is on, it runs for ever going down the road, but once we turn off the engine it runs for about a minute and then cuts out when the battery disconnect light goes off.
When the chassis alternator is providing the 12 volt, and even after we shut off the engine and turn off the battery disconnect (also, while the red light is still lit) and back on several times it appears to function as usual, disconnecting and re-connecting the 12 volt.
Anyway, I replaced the battery 4 post disconnect today, did not correct the issue. (30$ lost!)
We'll be home tomorrow and I'll have more time to test power to the 4 post solenoid I replaced to see if house voltage is reaching it when the red light is on or off.
It appears now it's something between the batteries and the solenoid.
Does anyone have any idea how to find the 12 volt shut down issue, obviously caused by the 24 volt load, the issue appears to only occur when relying only on the house batteries?
