Leaky roof seam cause to delamination the 93 Santara skin

Ahh a trick question.Don't see good,look bad.Just money spend more.Seriously try a better explanation and picture if you could,there are reconstruction wizards on here that can help fix anything,but they will probably need more help to help you.

Thank you for your suggestion.
I will try to get few photos as soon I can.
Hopefully tomorrow afternoon.
Thank you ...looking forward, Sojourner

There wasn't anything wrong with your question or the way you asked. DIY is possible, repair shops are a choice and usually best to shop around for quotes. What I learned was to go to a boat repair ie. marina. They deal with fiberglass all day long. They repaired a few deep scratches in my gel coat along with a dinner plate sized bubble near the horizontal seam in the rear. Was quoted at numerous places $1000+, the boat yard I went to did the repairs for $450. And it's perfect, even a year later.

Thank you phnguyk.

I tried to take photo but it hard to show waves or delamination.
However it same usual problem that rotting the wood under the skin. Causing the glue on aluminum frame to rotted thin plywood to skin helpless.
My coach has delam at a small vertical section above the right rear dual.
And most of the left side is delam.

My question is there anyone (DIY or expert) that had done the repair with instructions and/or photos

I am thinking of installing several strip of aluminum channel horizontally (about 5/8" wide x 1/4" sides x 1/16" thick) screwed to frames at 8" inbetween spacing. To hold and smooth the skin onto the coach's frames. ??????????
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thank you kindly, Sojourner

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f51/delam-repair-technique-48903.html



There's a guy who did a blog, he used a tree and some boards to apply pressure, he drilled some small holes, injected glue (I'm pretty sure gorrila glue), put some wax paper over it then used the tree. I know it's on the web somewhere but I just can't find it.


I have a friend that cut out a small area around one of his windows, he used matt and resin, sanded it smooth, and repainted with some krylon, I will be the first to say it looks pretty good, you really have to look closely.

I did a 88 Pace arrow a few years ago. I took the whole side off, the windows, doors & fiberglass. Replaced the rotted wood with 1/4 inch plywood. It took me about a month to do it. I had to cut the fiberglass in half about half way back it was to heavy in one piece. I used laminate glue and drywall screws on the plywood & fiberglass, I had to use a few screws in the fiberglass. The framework was rusted, I used a gas tank coating on it. I did the roof with eternabond tape. Use a lot of the glue it soaks into the plywood, I had a few places that came loose after the sun worked on it.

silverclip2,

I had a similar small vertical section above the window and rear wheels that eventually cracked. I had the motorhome repainted and that spot repaired but it cracked again. Turned out the horizontal roof beam was rusted to the point of flexing which was the cause of the crack. Working from inside a cabinet the foam was removed down to the skin and triple layers of plywood anchored to steel plate which is anchored to the vertical steel studs. A thin piece of aluminum is fixed over the crack and painted to match the MH. I would have preferred a smooth finish but body shop was concerned about strength of the repair so went with this approach. Looks OK and is strong and won't crack. I tried, and the body shop did as well, to rebond the fiberglass but the foam just won't hold anymore. Thought about rebonding to the plywood but wasn't positive it would hold well enough.

John