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New (to us) DP Questions.

Vapor_Trails
Explorer
Explorer
My DW and I just acquired a new-to-us 2006 Fleetwood Providence 39s. It has a Cat 350hp and an Allison trans. We bought it from a family member (uncle) so I know the history and we got an incredibly good deal. I’m very close to my uncle and we do stuff together all the time. He bought it new and we’ve camped with him many times. He’s taken very good care of it over the years. And I think it only has about 15,000 miles.

DW and I never in a million years thought we’d ever buy a Class A, let alone a diesel pusher. We’ve been shopping for a larger TT or perhaps a 5er, but that would also require a TV upgrade. But, my aunt is really a hotel queen and refuses to RV anymore. He was looking to downsize anyway and offered us a deal that’s better than we could do with a new trailer-tow vehicle upgrade. So, here we are.

I'm starting to familiarize myself with all the systems but I have a few questions:

1. Where do I add engine oil? I know my way around a toolbox so I figured it'd be obvious, but surprisingly it's not. I think I know which cap is the fill cap, but it isn’t marked and I don’t want to make a mistake. Uncle wasn't sure, either.

2. The house batteries are nearing the end of their lives. There are 4 group 24 6v in series. I have been very happy with 2 group 24 12v in my previous TT. Is there any reason why I should not switch from 6v to 12v?

3. This one is kind of a biggie; kind of. A couple of years ago my uncle was lowering the front jacks but did not notice he was ever-so-slightly rolling forward. It bent the left front jack just enough that it wouldn’t retract. We were all camping out in the desert at the time and it did retract just enough to use a bottle jack to put it back in place. He never had it looked at but a body-shop owner/friend suggested he lower the jack and then gently back up a bit to see if that bends it back in place. That seems reasonable to us. Is there any reason we shouldn’t try that?

This is our (my DW and I) first diesel pusher; first motor home, actually. So any other tips are welcome. Thanks.
2018 Ram 2500 CCSB, 4x4, 6.7, 3.42
2019 Grand Designs Momentum 25G
2020 RZR Pro XP Ultimate
A day without fusion is like a day without sunshine.
20 REPLIES 20

keepingthelight
Explorer
Explorer
This might be helpful for you to read and have a better understanding of your chassis.

http://freightlinerchassis.com/documents/KnowingYourChassisv2-20100324124504000000.pdf

Good luck;)
05 Tiffin Phaeton 40 QDH w/4 slides
CAT C7 350+ HP MP-8, Aero Muffler, AFE Filter
06 HHR LT Toad
Ready Brute Elite

JamesBr
Explorer
Explorer
even in my old 2001, the dip stick tube doubled as the fill.

On your batteries, are you shure its a 24v setup and not 4 6 volts in a 12v paralell setup?
2006 Ford F350 6.0
2014 Primetime Sanibel 3600
Enough other vehicles to not bother listing.

Previous RV: 2001 Monaco Knight

HD8100A
Explorer
Explorer
X2 on using Redlands Truck and RV instead of Colton.
I would stay with the 6V.
Have Redlands give you an estimate for the jack just so you have an idea of the cost

Mr_Mark1
Explorer
Explorer
Vapor_Trails wrote:
Thanks everyone. A few of you responded that the oil fill cap should be yellow. Yup, it should be. But, it isn’t. Hence the confusion. It’s always been serviced at Colton Truck Terminal Garage. So I may take it to them and have them do the next service; but only if they’ll let me watch.

I have a cousin in the auto sound/electronic biz and he can get me Interstate golf cart batteries for about $100 a piece. I’ll probably do that, even though 12v deep cycles are half that cost.

I'm gonna kick the jack issue down the road a bit for now.


First, stay away from Colton Truck Terminal. I'm not saying they took my transmission dip stick, but when our coach was new (2008 Dyansty), I took our coach to them for service. I know in my mind that I remember pulling out the oil and transmission dip sticks.... later on, I went to check them again and no blade on the transmission dip stick, just the top. I thought it might have fallen in but it couldn't be seen.

They also could not fix my dash air after three tries but charged me everytime for their lack of knowledge. I also got a bad alignment from them that I found after 2,000 miles (all in one cross country trip) and I noticed it in Nashville that my tires were severely wearing on both of the front inside treads. I took it to TAFA (Tire/Axle/Frame/Alignment) and they gave me the best alignment the coach ever had. They also found the front needed a shim to make it perfect.

Colton knows how to change the oil/filters on Trucks and RV's. They did not know how to replace a slide hydraulic hose and said they would have to call someone else in to look at it.

Take your coach a little further down the street to Redlands Truck and RV Performance shop in Redlands, CA. They have given me 110% excellent service and fixed my dash air on the first try. It has worked for over 2 yrs. since they fixed it (ice cold). They also know how to fix everything RV. Excellent service.

Safe travels,
MM.
Mr.Mark
2021.5 Pleasure Way Plateau FL Class-B on the Sprinter Chassis
2018 Mini Cooper Hardtop Coupe, 2 dr., 6-speed manual
(SOLD) 2015 Prevost Liberty Coach, 45 ft, 500 hp Volvo
(SOLD) 2008 Monaco Dynasty, 42 ft, 425 hp Cummins

dog_house_Jim
Explorer
Explorer
You really do have to get the leveling jack fixed. If your coach has a LP/AC fridge. the coach should be level for it to work properly. and to do that you need the leveling jacks.

UsualSuspect
Explorer
Explorer
Congrats on your purchase.
1 - You can fill the oil through the yellow cap.
2 - I replaced my 6v batteries almost 3 years ago with 4 from Costco, they were $89 a piece.
3 - As for the jack, they are Power Gear, and electric. I would replace the bent leg. If it is jammed up in the housing, you will shear the pin in the top of it before you will get it to lower.
Since it is a front one, you can easily repair it yourself once you have the part. The fronts jacks are easily accessed by extending the slide out.
All you need to remove the jack is a 3/4" wrench and a 3/4" ratchet.
Remove the 6 bolts holding the jack to the frame bracket.
Take the jack, and remove the 2 bolts with nuts on the side of the leg. You should now be able to drop the piece that extends out of the motor assembly.
Remove the bent leg, and install the replacement. Make sure the magnet on the leg extension is facing the sensor on the leg. This tells the jack when it is extended, and when it is retraced.
Reassembly is reverse of assembly.
I would also check and verify the jack motors have been weatherized. If they have been done, there will be a metal clamp holding the boot to the motor.
If there is a plastic wire tie holding the boot on, you will need to remove the boot and check the brake for corrosion, and if none, put the boot back on, and secure it with a metal 3 1/4" hose clamp, and silicon the top of the boot, as well as any wire entrances, and the area where the motor is assembled.
If you find the brake is corroded, you have 2 choices. Try to clean the brake up yourself, or replace it.
I cleaned mine, and they are still working to this day. I do carry a spare just in case, they are $89 from Fleetwood.
2007 Fleetwood Excursion 40E Cat C7 350 HP
2007 Chev 2500HD D/A Long bed CC (Yes, it is my TOAD :B)
2011 Toyota Tundra
2013 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sahara (Backup towed)
Gone but not forgotten, 2008 Jayco 299 RLS

redguard
Explorer
Explorer
Vapor_Trails wrote:
Thanks everyone. A few of you responded that the oil fill cap should be yellow. Yup, it should be. But, it isn’t. Hence the confusion. It’s always been serviced at Colton Truck Terminal Garage. So I may take it to them and have them do the next service; but only if they’ll let me watch.

I have a cousin in the auto sound/electronic biz and he can get me Interstate golf cart batteries for about $100 a piece. I’ll probably do that, even though 12v deep cycles are half that cost.

I'm gonna kick the jack issue down the road a bit for now.


The jack needs to be replaced no if ands or buts. Costco 6V are $80 and are good batterys. Where would you be able to buy a 12V RV deep cycle battery for 50$

Vapor_Trails
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks everyone. A few of you responded that the oil fill cap should be yellow. Yup, it should be. But, it isn’t. Hence the confusion. It’s always been serviced at Colton Truck Terminal Garage. So I may take it to them and have them do the next service; but only if they’ll let me watch.

I have a cousin in the auto sound/electronic biz and he can get me Interstate golf cart batteries for about $100 a piece. I’ll probably do that, even though 12v deep cycles are half that cost.

I'm gonna kick the jack issue down the road a bit for now.
2018 Ram 2500 CCSB, 4x4, 6.7, 3.42
2019 Grand Designs Momentum 25G
2020 RZR Pro XP Ultimate
A day without fusion is like a day without sunshine.

sdianel_-acct_c
Explorer
Explorer
Ditton on Speedco for oil changes. Fast service, no appt necessary. In and out within an hour. There is a location in Kingman AZ and one in Vegas.

Find out the manufacturer of the jacks. Might be Power Gear or HWH then call the manufacturer. We took our '04 DP to Moscow IA to the HWH factory for service. Outstanding! They have hookups in their parking lot.

We bought our new coach batteries at Interstate Batteries. Best price at that time.
Lonny & Diane
2004 Country Coach Allure 33' "Big Blue"
Towing 2008 Chev Colorado 4x4
Semper Fi

Mike_Hohnstein
Explorer
Explorer
Great advice^^^

Your body shop acquaintance should have a power pack kit to get the jack frame straight.

Executive45
Explorer III
Explorer III
The reason for staying with the 6V golf cart batteries is they have no CCA, (cold crank amps) since they are not starter batteries and more CAH, Capacity Amp Hours, which is what you need to power your 'stuff' while stopped.

Since it sounds like your uncle didn't do any oil changes himself, I would take your coach to a Speedco and let them change the oil and filters, fuel and oil and let them teach you where everything is. You'll need the experience of changing a fuel filter anyway. It will come in handy if you're stuck on the side of the road after getting some bad fuel. Speedco will let you in the pit and show you what they're doing. You can mark your dipstick after they fill. They'll also check your coolant SCA while you're there. Plan on about $300 bucks.....Dennis
We can do more than we think we can, but most do less than we think we do
Dennis and Debi Fourteen Years Full Timing
Monaco Executive M-45PBQ Quad Slide
525HP Cummins ISM 6 Spd Allison
2014 Chevrolet Equinox LTZ W/ ReadyBrute
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JimM68
Explorer
Explorer
I'd stick with the 4 6v batteries, and replace the jack with a new one.
Jim M.
2008 Monaco Knight 40skq, moho #2
The "68"
My very own new forumfirstgens.com

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tinkerer
Explorer
Explorer
I have a 2007 Discovery which is very similar. You add oil in the same tube with the yellow cap that also contains the engine oil dipstick. Like another poster mentioned the dipsticks are not very accurate. When I fill mine to spec's called for By Cat it's near the add mark. I would change the oil (with the exact amount called for) and filter, start the engine to fill the filter, shut the engine down and wait a few minutes and check the oil and see where it registers on the dipstick. I it's off the marks I would mark the dipstick where the full line registered on the stick. I would stick with the 6 volt batteries as they will hold charge a lot longer than the 12volt. Just look for a deal on golf cart batteries like they sell at Costco or Sams. I would not trust the jack. Are they the electric powered jacks? They can be trouble some and there are updates for the electric jacks.;)

Big_Katuna
Explorer II
Explorer II
My thinking is it's damaged. If I try to re bend it, my luck it will work 2-3 times then fail at the worst possible moment and leave me stranded in the rain on a Sunday with an extended jack.

It's a nice DP.

Fix it right and enjoy it.
My Kharma ran over my Dogma.