Norcold 1200 throws GFCI when starting

Not the control board

the 120v heating element is leaking to ground

you will need to replace it with a new one

until then run the fridge on LP 'only'

Thank you Mr Wizard. Would have been much quicker and easier to post here than to try to troubleshoot no existent wiring issues. Will the fridge have to be pulled out or can the heating element be replaced from the vent opening. Thanks, Don.

Norcold 1200 has 2 (TWO) elements......225W each

Need to replace both.

Can be done from lower vent opening

Unplug leads on control module......pull elements up out of sleeves.
May need to wiggle back/forth to loosen

Small access door held in place via a tab. Bend tab then squeeze housing to unlock tab from door slot. Lift door slightly up and then out.

You can also attempt to get a NON GFCI plug to power the refer. This type trip is NOT a safety issue. Doug

PS, IF your unit is the 2001 Monaco, you may have a problem getting the old 120 elements out. If so, just do what I suggested above.

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Norcold 1200 has 2 (TWO) elements......225W each

Need to replace both.

Can be done from lower vent opening

Unplug leads on control module......pull elements up out of sleeves.
May need to wiggle back/forth to loosen

Small access door held in place via a tab. Bend tab then squeeze housing to unlock tab from door slot. Lift door slightly up and then out.

I was told, to Plug the the color leads in exactly where the old ones came out.

Probably the AC heaters but it actually could be any component that runs off of AC. Disconnect them and if it doesn't trip the GFI, that part is the root cause.

There are two heaters for the 1200. It looks like it's determined by the cooling unit serial number. MINE was completely unlegible but they were able to determine it for me by manufacture date. This should help:
***Link Removed***
http://thenorcoldguy.com/norcold-1200-1210-ac-heating-elements/

Probably important to mention that I had to use a rubber mallet to remove my old heaters from the heater slots on the flu. There is NO WAY I could have gotten them out with anything else.

diplomatdon wrote:
Turned on the fridge for the 1st time this season, and it keeps popping the GFCI. All the electrical wiring and plugs seem good on the circuit, runs on LP but throws reset on AC. Could there be a problem with control board. Any help appreciated. Don

Could be a weak GFCI. I'd test it with several power tools, such as a drill, circular saw, and also perhaps a space heater. If GFCI trips, faulty plug.

Just a update on problem. Tried all the things mentioned as far as other appliances etc. causing problem. Not the issue. Tried new GFCI and not the problem. Would work if GFCI bypassed as Doug said, however the other plugs on the circuit not protected. We went away for a week, ran on LP. When we got home I checked the OHMS as Norcold Guy showed on his site. Resistance was within tolerance, put back together, plugged in and working fine. Guess it's good until the next time it happens. Don't know what the problem was but I claimed to the wife I fixed it. Thanks for every ones help and suggestions. Don

diplomatdon wrote:
Just a update on problem. Tried all the things mentioned as far as other appliances etc. causing problem. Not the issue. Tried new GFCI and not the problem. Would work if GFCI bypassed as Doug said, however the other plugs on the circuit not protected. We went away for a week, ran on LP. When we got home I checked the OHMS as Norcold Guy showed on his site. Resistance was within tolerance, put back together, plugged in and working fine. Guess it's good until the next time it happens. Don't know what the problem was but I claimed to the wife I fixed it. Thanks for every ones help and suggestions. Don

120 elements that trip GFCI will always OHM out correctly. One of the 2 elements is BAD, Period. I don't know who the Norcold Guy is, but I have 37 years of working on RV refers(always have fixed them). Doug

I wouldt worry about doing away with the GFCI. especially on a frig.