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turbojimmy's avatar
turbojimmy
Explorer
Feb 23, 2014

Norcold 8310EG2

Yes, it's 30-years old. But it works. Sort of.

It works fine on propane. GAS light comes on, CHECK lights up briefly until it lights. It gets as cold as I would expect and RV fridge to get. When I switch it to electric, the AC light does not light up and nothing happens (heating element does not get hot).

In searching on the Norcold 8310 I sort of fell down a rabbit hole. In the search, I found a seller of new circuit boards. In reading the description for the circuit boards, it says that the replacement circuit boards are only for fridges that have had the recall performed.

Recall?

I then searched on the 8310 recall and didn't get any information. I see the '99-01 (or thereabouts) fridges were recalled.

I then Googled the part number for the circuit board that is in it, and based on the information from Dinosaur (manufacturer of replacement boards) it appears as if it is a post-recall board. So that's good.

Upon examining the circuit board, I found that the 5A fuse where the 120 goes in was blown. Easy fix, right? No. I replaced the fuse and still have no AC light or heat. The only other fuse on the board is a 3A fuse that is in tact. Yes, the 120V outlet works.

SO - question is, do I replace the circuit board? It's only $75 and there really doesn't seem to be too much else to it. Or...if the heating element were bad would the fridge be smart enough not to illuminate the AC light? They're pretty cheap too.

Part of me wants to replace the whole thing because it's so old, but it's a bit spendy for such an old rig. Yeah, I could resell a newish fridge if I were to junk it but it would be nice if I didn't have to.
  • Old-Biscuit wrote:
    OK......heater working. Underwear needs changing........:B

    AC light on eyebrow.Cold be bad connection between power supply board and eyebrow, bad cable or eyebrow bad.


    Yep. I looked at it again. AC terminals are J5 and J6, which is what I *thought* I checked. Might have had the multimeter hooked up incorrectly. Not sure.

    In any event, the coolant is circulating - I can hear it. Freezer is getting cold. Fridge usually takes a bit longer. I'm going to call it "working" for now. That non-functioning indicator light is going to bug me though. I'll add it to the "to do" list.

    EDIT for those following along at home. J5 and J6 are the correct terminals to check on the 8310 for the AC heater. You have to have your multimeter set on AC, not DC. Oops.
  • OK......heater working. Underwear needs changing........:B

    AC light on eyebrow.Cold be bad connection between power supply board and eyebrow, bad cable or eyebrow bad.
  • Old-Biscuit wrote:
    Check for 120V AC on both sides of the 5A AC fuse.
    Check for 12V DC on both sides of the 3A DC fuse

    Then check for 120AC at terminals J7 & J8 on board..........no 120V....new board

    Also check the resistance of AC heater...unplug it from board. S/B 65 ohms.
    Replace it.


    Funny you should suggest that. I was just out there explaining to my 13-year-old how it works.

    There was a wiring diagram on the circuit board cover - didn't notice that before.

    And I was also able to determine, via google search, that the recalls have been performed on the fridge based on the type of eyebrow that's installed as well as the circuit board. I'm not surprised - the original owner was very meticulous with the maintenance.

    3A fuse is good. 5A fuse is new. Need to check for voltage to the AC heater.

    I checked for 120V AC on J8 and J9. Must not have looked at it correctly - wrong pair to check. Pop, blue flash and blown fuse. I explained to my son that this is NOT how you check for voltage. At least I won't need caffeine for the rest of the day.

    Replaced the 5A fuse. Switched it to AC inside. Light does not illuminate. But.....heater works. I can hear the metal ticking as it expands from the heat. The AC light must be burned out in the eyebrow.
  • Check for 120V AC on both sides of the 5A AC fuse.
    Check for 12V DC on both sides of the 3A DC fuse

    Then check for 120AC at terminals J7 & J8 on board..........no 120V....new board

    Also check the resistance of AC heater...unplug it from board. S/B 65 ohms.
    Replace it.
  • MountainAir05 wrote:
    Have you check out the heater for voltage and ohms (ensure it is not plug into power for the ohms check. page 38 looks like a good place to start.

    http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/ncoldnnewnseries.pdf


    Thanks.

    Mine's a bit older. The AC power cord is soldered to the circuit board. I'll have to do a bit more searching to find the wiring diagram. Mine was still there, but the right side of it - where it shows the schematics for the AC heater and the door light (which doesn't work either) is worn.
  • The original refer, they ran 120 voltage up to the inside eyebrow board and they had some problems. The recall involved replacing the Rear control board and the inside eyebrow control board and the harness from the eyebrow to the control board. Once the recall was done ALL control wiring was dc voltage with no AC voltage. IF the refer does NOT operate on 120 and the inside AC light is inop, I would invest in a new control board as long as you have verified the control wire harness from the control board to the eyebrow is not broken or chewed up(rodents). Doug
    You can call Norcold IF you can read the serial number, and they will tell you if the recall has been done.
  • Have you check out the heater for voltage and ohms (ensure it is not plug into power for the ohms check. page 38 looks like a good place to start.

    http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/ncoldnnewnseries.pdf