norcold rv refrigerator

This means the Refer does NOT see the 120 volts
1. The 120 receptacle behind the refer is dead, check all your breakers and GFCI's
2. The 120 fuse ON the Norcold main control board is blown.
3. Something has chewed the wiring up behind the refer. Doug

I do not have a Norcold refrigerator - however,

My refrigerator has an external grill on the outside wall behind the refrigerator to let air in (it goes out the top).

If I remove the grill, I have access to the refrigerator's AC power cord, and the 110v outlet that it's plugged into.

It would be easy for me to put a meter on the outlet and verify whether or not the refrigerator is getting good AC power.

YMMV

Be sure to check the GFI outlet that covers your internal 110.

I've lost the 110 fuse twice in three years. Remove the outside cover, on the upper left you will see a black cover. Take a photo or draw a diagram to get the wires back in the correct place. Once the cover is removed you will see the old fashioned, bus, tube type fuse. It is likely the panel is hot so don't start poking around. Using a tester you can test the fuse on both sides to determine if your getting 110 through the system. If not pull the plugs, and replace the fuse. If you show 110 the next step is the board.
Let us know

bigguyracing wrote:
My Norcold rv refrigerator switched from AC to LP today ! I am hooked up to 50 amp service. I checked all of the breakers. Everything else in the coach works just fine but when I put the refrigerator in the AC mode it starts to beep and displays no AC. When I put the refrigerator in AU mode it goes to LP.
Anyone had this experience with their Norcold refrigerator ?
oGary

As doug said check the fuse on the circuit board- if for sure the plug in has 120V

Fridge is telling you there is NO 120V AC available.

Test outlet.....if it is good
Then remove control module cover (have to unplug some of the leads to remove and check the 5A Fuse (glass fuse). That is for the AC circuit. If blown then also check the electric heater element-----it could be bad also.

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Fridge is telling you there is NO 120V AC available.

Test outlet.....if it is good
Then remove control module cover (have to unplug some of the leads to remove and check the 5A Fuse (glass fuse). That is for the AC circuit. If blown then also check the electric heater element-----it could be bad also.

yes I believe this has been covered several times here already

usersmanual wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Fridge is telling you there is NO 120V AC available.

Test outlet.....if it is good
Then remove control module cover (have to unplug some of the leads to remove and check the 5A Fuse (glass fuse). That is for the AC circuit. If blown then also check the electric heater element-----it could be bad also.

yes I believe this has been covered several times here already

Not in same DETAIL.......

Yes, I have had this happen to me. After you check all the simple stuff as others suggested if it still does not work or it intermittently works check the white connector on the bottom of the control board that has a flat wire ( like a telephone wire) and remove it and clean the connections on the board with an eraser. I think that wire goes to the eyebrow on the front top of the refer that switches it from auto,off and lp. Cleaning this connector allowed me to run it on AC again.

My circut breaker for my fridge is in my bathroom Try all 110 outlets